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Can't get full throttle with my pedal any ideas????

vanrj1

vanrj1

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can't get full throttle with my pedal. when I push it to the floor it only gets about 2/3 and the cable is tight. I shimmed the lever to try and extend the range but still can't seem to figure out how to get full range. I am using a Lokar throttle and kick down. Any ideas? here is a pic of my setup on the engine. (the kick down has not been cut to length in the pic so disregard that)

View attachment Lokar.jpg
 
i was gonna say to mount the accelerator cable closer to the throttle shaft on the carb,but it looks pretty close in your pics.can the gas pedal start any higher inside the car?would allow for more throw.
 
67 coronet said:
i was gonna say to mount the accelerator cable closer to the throttle shaft on the carb,but it looks pretty close in your pics.can the gas pedal start any higher inside the car?would allow for more throw.
Click to expand...

I can pull the pedal up, but can't figure out how to get the lever to come back farther if that makes sense.
 
normally the pivot crank behind the gas pedal has a bumper to stop it.you can cut that down or bend the rod were the cable hooks to it to get more throw as well.take a look at the bell crank behind the gas pedal and you should be able to figure it out.
 
67 coronet said:
normally the pivot crank behind the gas pedal has a bumper to stop it.you can cut that down or bend the rod were the cable hooks to it to get more throw as well.take a look at the bell crank behind the gas pedal and you should be able to figure it out.
Click to expand...

I will check that out......Thanks
 
67 coronet said:
normally the pivot crank behind the gas pedal has a bumper to stop it.you can cut that down or bend the rod were the cable hooks to it to get more throw as well.take a look at the bell crank behind the gas pedal and you should be able to figure it out.
Click to expand...


That's how we've solved this issue in the past. Usually by cutting and welding the pedal pivot rod. The other option is to hammer the crap out of your floor but your car seems to nice for this caveman treatment. Try plan "A" first.
 
Polara Pat said:
That's how we've solved this issue in the past. Usually by cutting and welding the pedal pivot rod. The other option is to hammer the crap out of your floor but your car seems to nice for this caveman treatment. Try plan "A" first.
Click to expand...

Haha...... Yeah, I'll try plan A first... I thought about altering the pivot rod but thought I should ask for suggestions first....

Thanks Much!!
 
Or make the pivot shaft at the carbs longer where the cable connects. The farther away from the center of rotation the more pull you will get with the pedal. Though I don't see any adjustment in that department in your linkage. That being the case you may have to modify the pedal linkage as described.

As furyus pointed out below, scratch what i said, closer to pivot at the carb is more pull
 
Last edited:
Have you checked to be sure the inner cable is long enough to keep the end from bottoming out against the outer cable? You may have to shorten just the outer cable to have enough travel. Does the pedal go all the way to the floor?
 
Cornpatch MO said:
Have you checked to be sure the inner cable is long enough to keep the end from bottoming out against the outer cable? You may have to shorten just the outer cable to have enough travel. Does the pedal go all the way to the floor?
Click to expand...

Not sure, that's another thing to Check, it feels like it goes to the floor but I will double check it. Thanks
 
If all that others says checks out, you can move the throttle cable closer to the carb pivot point. Closer to the pivot point means less cable travel will pull the throttle lever farther. The hole may need to be drilled out for the cable stud to fit in the new hole. I have done this on Holleys with great results.
 
furyus said:
If all that others says checks out, you can move the throttle cable closer to the carb pivot point. Closer to the pivot point means less cable travel will pull the throttle lever farther. The hole may need to be drilled out for the cable stud to fit in the new hole. I have done this on Holleys with great results.
Click to expand...

Ok, will check that as well......Thanks
 
I shimmed the bottom of the gas pedal mount under the 2 bottom studs,I think I may have bent the rod a tad also.
 
I bent the gas pedal rod inside the car that the gas pedal rest on with my 63. I bent it up so it would have more pedal travel as I could not get full throttle until I did that. And I am using a Lokar cable setup. Ron
 
I made a new pivot arm so that it made the cable throw longer and attached it to the carb then I bolted the throttle cable to the new arm. Hope this makes some kind of sense. Not sure I have a picture.
 
Thanks for all the reply's. Many good Ideas. I was able to pull the cable a little tighter and gained about an 1/8 inch which helped a little. I might bend the rod a little. I have shimmed under the bolts as well when I installed the new cable. Again, thanks for all the responses.
 
Is the dual carb linkage correct, looks like the front will open quicker then the rear?
If you open up the little hole that is in-front and a but lower of the current position, and use it to mount the throttle cable it will move the the throttle cable closer the the carb shaft/pivot, and give more clearance between the cable clamp and holder/adjuster.
Looks like the kickdown is not attached the the transmission yet?

Also, the long bolts holding the link bars might hit the carb body?
 
He said "heavier foot" that's funny!!
 
451Mopar said:
Is the dual carb linkage correct, looks like the front will open quicker then the rear?
If you open up the little hole that is in-front and a but lower of the current position, and use it to mount the throttle cable it will move the the throttle cable closer the the carb shaft/pivot, and give more clearance between the cable clamp and holder/adjuster.
Looks like the kickdown is not attached the the transmission yet?

Also, the long bolts holding the link bars might hit the carb body?
Click to expand...

The linkage is set so both work simultaneously, the front opens as the back opens. The cable does not hit the bracket so there is enough room for full throttle there as I can push to WOT at the carbs , it's that the pedal hits the floor before WOT can happen. need more arc in the pivot. The bolts look long but plenty of clearance. As mentioned in the post, kick down was not cut and adjusted in this photo. Thanks for all the tips.
 
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