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440 ****

no offense taken, thanks for your advice. It was heavily covered but after turning the engine over a few times to sort the rocker/ push rod adjustments out the lifters have wiped a lot off.
 
I also after car has been run I always retiten the intake bolts and take a small hammer and tap on the tabs on the intake.the first time sometimes will tighten a 1/2 turn you will know when there tite.I cloned a 70 rr with a six pack it took about a week to get them tuned and with a 355 gear at 30mph I could stand on it and put thos l/60s up in smoke...haha god how I miss that car....good luck.your going to love it...........Artie:hello2:
 
mostly completed, apart for cabs and distributor
 

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Thanks for all your help. Sorry for my ignorance but what do you mean by "tabs on the intake"
 
I always liked the black engine look with aluminum accents.......
My 69 R/R got the same treatment when I built that one...
Looks GREAT buddy!
Please use a good oil like "Penn Grade oil" before you think about firing it up!!!!!! Regular off the shelf stuff does not work on our old engines....
 
also subscribed .. looking forward to seeing how much torque that makes and hearing those 6 barrels o' fun open up
 
looks great, keep up the good work...
 
Hey Racetiger are those header (or manifold) BOLTS rather than studs? I'd like to do that on my new motor - partly to make a little bit more room next to the head when putting the headers on (every little bit helps). Do you know what the spec is for that bolt? Are they all the same size? I have the Mopar Performance version of the same heads (Edelbrock).

They look like ARP 12 point black - of some size.

Greg

Getting there...
IMG_1197.jpg
 
Hi, yes they are ARP 12 point bolts (Chrome Moly Black Oxide), Im not sure of the spec etc. I bought the ARP Bolt Kit and it came in that.
I'm sorry I didn't pay much attention to them when I put them in and just did them up finger tight.
Im also away from where the motor is so I can't go have a look, (back at work to pay for more mopar stuff)
 
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