• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

What kind of paint for a beginner for 69 GTX

C

CRAIGXLH1

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:31 PM
Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Messages
76
Reaction score
5
Location
CHICOPEE MA
What is the best paint for a beginner for 69 GTX car is white with black strips also I want to remove engine to do the engine compartment. also I want remove the fenders to fix the door hinges.I looking for the best paint and the easiest
and fixable if I make a mistake. I going to need to remove all the paint because or cracking and bubbing the paint is over 40 years old also what kind of primer and what to cover the bare metal before primer also I being doing it my garage. thank you
 
For the beginner, that would be bc/cc. You could also get some of the Duplicolor lacquer paint, it's in quarts, and ge a feel for painting. Then move on to bc/cc stuff.
 
base clear will probably be the easiest. if i were you i'd paint the car in sections unless you have a ventilated spray booth to use. i tried doing my RR in one shot in the garage and the over spray got ridiculous. ended up having to re clear most of it.
 
My brother is an autobody mechanic and has worked on countless cars. He always warns me to stay away from lacquer paints. Personally, I have never seen a lacquer paint that was durable and resisted fade. It also becomes brittle with age. Also, it's a real b*tch removing lacquer paint. You'd have to use a chemical stripper.

Sorry this doesn't answer your question about what to use, but if you plan on keeping the car for awhile, I would use a urethane based paint. Make sure you go down to bare metal too.
 
bc/cc I did my bike a few years ago with HOK paint it came out great for a first attempt but that was because they provide very precise tech instructions that I fallowed to the letter
very expensive
stuff the bike cost about 700 to do about 10 yrs ago
 
The coatingstore.com can set you up. Cheaper than HOK, I think some of the guys worked there. Go bc/cc, easier to correct.
 
Stay away from lacquers. Most modern paints are urethanes, that includes the 2-stage paints which are, as stated, very easy to shoot well. You'll want a DTM (direct to metal) or self-etching primer if ya shoot over bare metal. The epoxy primers are good for this, a little more expensive but can save you the cost of a gallon or so of sealer. For non-metallic colors I personally prefer single-stage paints...no clear. White, black (especially black), yellow, whatever, all seem to look better without the clearcoat. Modern paints are all pretty easy to spray well, just follow the data that comes with the paint. Most painters will also tell you to stick with a single manufacturer. If you like PPG, HOK, SherwinWilliams, use that company's products all the way through. I think it was John Kozmowski who compared paint to chocolate chip cookies, (paraphrasing here): ChipsAhoy, FamousAmos, and your mom all make chocolate chip cookies. Many different companies make paint. Technically, they are all chocolate chip cookies, and technically they are all paint, but are they all alike?

JK was a real character.

BTW, there's no real need to take the whole car down to bare metal unless its had several paint jobs and they're stacking up. If the original paint is super hard to get off, that means its STICKING. Use it as a base. That kind of adhesion is priceless...use it.
 
Jonnyuma said:
Stay away from lacquers. Most modern paints are urethanes, that includes the 2-stage paints which are, as stated, very easy to shoot well. You'll want a DTM (direct to metal) or self-etching primer if ya shoot over bare metal. The epoxy primers are good for this, a little more expensive but can save you the cost of a gallon or so of sealer. For non-metallic colors I personally prefer single-stage paints...no clear. White, black (especially black), yellow, whatever, all seem to look better without the clearcoat. Modern paints are all pretty easy to spray well, just follow the data that comes with the paint. Most painters will also tell you to stick with a single manufacturer. If you like PPG, HOK, SherwinWilliams, use that company's products all the way through. I think it was John Kozmowski who compared paint to chocolate chip cookies, (paraphrasing here): ChipsAhoy, FamousAmos, and your mom all make chocolate chip cookies. Many different companies make paint. Technically, they are all chocolate chip cookies, and technically they are all paint, but are they all alike?

JK was a real character.

BTW, there's no real need to take the whole car down to bare metal unless its had several paint jobs and they're stacking up. If the original paint is super hard to get off, that means its STICKING. Use it as a base. That kind of adhesion is priceless...use it.
Click to expand...

I agree with this but if there is any oxidation, I would take it down to bare metal. You don't have to take the whole car down, but I would be judicious about it. I've seen oxidation bleed through fantastic paint jobs years later. I have that problem on my right fender (pin sized spots of rust under the clear coat) , so that entire section will have to be resprayed.
 
If we're talking about oxidation of the metal, absolutely take it off. I was just trying to head-off the obsession guys sometimes get when it comes to stripping, sanding, and removing ALL traces of previous paint. It's not always necessary and just doing it to be doing it, or because some know-it-all with 2 paint jobs under his belt said its mandatory is a waste of resources and labor. It can also allow contaminants onto/into the bare steel which will surely cause headaches later. Paint is protection for the substrate and that's all. Whether its a house, a car, a piece of furniture, or a mailbox. If its tenacious and uncompromised, scuff it and use it as a solid base.
 
Jonnyuma said:
If we're talking about oxidation of the metal, absolutely take it off. I was just trying to head-off the obsession guys sometimes get when it comes to stripping, sanding, and removing ALL traces of previous paint. It's not always necessary and just doing it to be doing it, or because some know-it-all with 2 paint jobs under his belt said its mandatory is a waste of resources and labor. It can also allow contaminants onto/into the bare steel which will surely cause headaches later. Paint is protection for the substrate and that's all. Whether its a house, a car, a piece of furniture, or a mailbox. If its tenacious and uncompromised, scuff it and use it as a solid base.
Click to expand...

Totally agree with you. Just thought i'd mention my point about oxidation because I can see why people would think that painting over it solves the problem. It just hides it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

pedal2themetal
Paint Question
Replies
11
Views
830
pedal2themetal
pedal2themetal
DevEngNerd
Bad paint bubbles
Replies
17
Views
2K
Don Frelier
Don Frelier
TrackPack
Prep for epoxy primer
2 3
Replies
42
Views
6K
snakeoil24
snakeoil24
M
EV2 Paint metallic?
Replies
7
Views
1K
mike daugharty
M
K
Is this a good metal prep
Replies
2
Views
1K
snakeoil24
snakeoil24
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top