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Water pumps for a 383

Durandal25

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FBBO TEAM,

Ok, so I'm in the hunt for the best water pump for my stock 383 69 Bee. What are your thoughts on a FlowKooler pump? .......not to say that I don't have an opinion here, but you guys seem to have "been there done that" 99.99% of the time.
 
I've used flow kooler pumps before without issue,
they look nice, whether you paint it or not and they flow more than OE.
 
I've used flow kooler pumps before without issue,
they look nice, whether you paint it or not and they flow more than OE.

I guess what I'm shooting for is a good pump to fit my OEM spec car. I've been finding that the application of all these parts can play hell with other parts of my stock system, so I'm making sure that I don't spin my wheels here, and my wallet.

- - - Updated - - -

I've used flow kooler pumps before without issue,
they look nice, whether you paint it or not and they flow more than OE.

.....I guess my other question is to "shroud" or not to "shroud". I've been running without one since I got the car. Thoughts?
 
Can't help on the water pump issue, I've got a 440 Source complete (housing and all) water pump on mine. As far as the shroud goes, Yes you should have a shroud but if your not seeing any heat issues especially in traffic then why bother but they can make a dramatic difference in temp.
 
Can't help on the water pump issue, I've got a 440 Source complete (housing and all) water pump on mine. As far as the shroud goes, Yes you should have a shroud but if your not seeing any heat issues especially in traffic then why bother but they can make a dramatic difference in temp.

Does the 440 Source combo (housing/pump) come with the high flow pump they offer separately or is it a different unit?

And I'm about to ask a question that I'm sure is rather foolish but here goes.... What determines what side the housing exit is on (passenger or drivers)... for ex.. my 383 currently exits drivers side but I've ordered a 440 Crate... I'm trying to get parts together before the crate gets here such as the rad and water pump but not sure if I need to wait to have the engine in hand or if I can just order a housing that exits on the drivers side coupled with a rad to match up to keep it the same as my current configuration?

Thanks and not intended to hijack this thread I am also trying to figure out who's/what water pump to use
 
water flow is important to much can cause as much trouble as to little

so only correct what is a problem

if you under drive pump go with a higher volume
 
I use a high flow Milodon water pump and a high flow thermostat. The quality was pretty evident when I took it out of the box. I did similar research as you when looking for a new pump and read that the 440source pumps have a potential design flaw. Something about a smaller port supply holes than stock which impedes flow. I read this on two other forums.
I would recommend milodon any day.
But I encourage you to do your own research and come to your own conclusion.

Also regarding the shroud: I do not have one but will be installing one soon. I can tell you that if you have an engine driven fan and do not have a shroud, you are likely not cooling as efficiently as you should be.
 
You live in TX so you know how hot it can get, I'd run a shroud. A shroud is also useful in prevent, a battery cable for example, swinging into the fan.

Regarding water pump housing direction, its essentially radiator oreintation in/out, basically up to 72 MOST mopars had drivers side housings, 1973-on MOST mopars had passenger side housings.
As far as "messing something up" you shouldn't worry, you can swap driver/passenger side housings as much as you want without issue, HOWEVER, you'll need a radiator that matches your housing, also, it will alter your accessory drive set-up.
 
Does the 440 Source combo (housing/pump) come with the high flow pump they offer separately or is it a different unit?

And I'm about to ask a question that I'm sure is rather foolish but here goes.... What determines what side the housing exit is on (passenger or drivers)... for ex.. my 383 currently exits drivers side but I've ordered a 440 Crate... I'm trying to get parts together before the crate gets here such as the rad and water pump but not sure if I need to wait to have the engine in hand or if I can just order a housing that exits on the drivers side coupled with a rad to match up to keep it the same as my current configuration?

Thanks and not intended to hijack this thread I am also trying to figure out who's/what water pump to use
Bolt action pretty much answered it "depends on radiator". Mine is driver side exit and as far as the issue with 440 source water pumps I can't say either way but can tell you that my car (456 stroker) will sit at idle in the heat and hold it under 180 degrees and it's a new motor (usually run a little hotter). I also have a BeCool aluminum radiator (2-1" wide rows) a 16" thermal clutch fan with a full shroud.
 
Durandal25: If your motor is stock and you don't have cooling issues, just use a stock new or rebuilt pump from your local NAPA store. Same with the shroud. Best advice I can give is not to mess with something that is working.
 
Durandal25: If your motor is stock and you don't have cooling issues, just use a stock new or rebuilt pump from your local NAPA store. Same with the shroud. Best advice I can give is not to mess with something that is working.

Colodadodave,

Any idea where to get a decent shroud?
 
You live in TX so you know how hot it can get, I'd run a shroud. A shroud is also useful in prevent, a battery cable for example, swinging into the fan.

Regarding water pump housing direction, its essentially radiator oreintation in/out, basically up to 72 MOST mopars had drivers side housings, 1973-on MOST mopars had passenger side housings.
As far as "messing something up" you shouldn't worry, you can swap driver/passenger side housings as much as you want without issue, HOWEVER, you'll need a radiator that matches your housing, also, it will alter your accessory drive set-up.


Thanks Bolt and 747... Immediately after I typed my question and realized everything is exchangeable from my 383 to the 440/522 it hit me that everything should be the exact same configuration... Now I'm at the same decision as Durandal to either use a new Water Pump with the new motor or just move the one over from my 383. And 747 my current rad is also driver side inlet and outlet
 
Thanks Bolt and 747... Immediately after I typed my question and realized everything is exchangeable from my 383 to the 440/522 it hit me that everything should be the exact same configuration... Now I'm at the same decision as Durandal to either use a new Water Pump with the new motor or just move the one over from my 383. And 747 my current rad is also driver side inlet and outlet

Not a prob Mike.
Im pretty **** about new motors, so I like to use all new, fresh components, I think a new pump is money well spent in a fresh engine, but if the pump in your 383 is fairly new, you should be fine swapping it over.
just an FYI if you buy an new pump, count the impellers, some auto parts stores use a generic pumps for A/C and non-A/C applications, A/C pumps have 6 impellers, non-A/C units have 8 impellers.
You know that you can't swap your distributor from your 383 to your 440, right? The shaft is to short.
You can swap them vice versa though (440 to 383) with a spacer.
 
From Summit: If yours is a 26" core, Mopar Performance Restoration Radiator Cooling Fan Shrouds 2785434. About $85.00
 
From Summit: If yours is a 26" core, Mopar Performance Restoration Radiator Cooling Fan Shrouds 2785434. About $85.00


....22'. I've priced it at $175 at Herb's, but I was hoping for a good part for less.....
 
....22'. I've priced it at $175 at Herb's, but I was hoping for a good part for less.....

Try ebay or craigslist for "22 Mopar shroud". You should get some returns. You might be able to find a media blasted-period correct one and spray paint it black for less than $100. I know $175 sounds painful but I think it's worth it to maintain the stock look.

I think Summit sells generic shrouds that you can cut to fit too (for the diameter of your engine fan). Will run you maybe $50. I took this route because I have an aftermarket radiator. It's functional.
 
Not a prob Mike.
Im pretty **** about new motors, so I like to use all new, fresh components, I think a new pump is money well spent in a fresh engine, but if the pump in your 383 is fairly new, you should be fine swapping it over.
just an FYI if you buy an new pump, count the impellers, some auto parts stores use a generic pumps for A/C and non-A/C applications, A/C pumps have 6 impellers, non-A/C units have 8 impellers.
You know that you can't swap your distributor from your 383 to your 440, right? The shaft is to short.
You can swap them vice versa though (440 to 383) with a spacer.


Thanks... I never would have thought to look for a pump with 8 impellers since I don't have AC.. Also yes I was aware about the distributor so I ordered the one that the builder is using for the dyno pull as well as the same carb to ensure the same results.
 
More is better.

A/C cars had small pulleys so it would spin the fan, pump, etc faster (because of A/C)
Non-A/C cars have larger pulleys and more impellers, typically, more impellers equal more flow.
 
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