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blower 440 over heating

woody02

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I am chasing an over heat problem on a fresh build 440 with a 8-71 dyer blower.
I gave replaced tstat.no help. Test for enternal leak using a co2 chemical tester.no issues there. It has 3 row aluminum radiator, 1 electric fan, and electric waterpump.any ideas?forgot to mention I tested for over heat while sitting and idling in park
 
if it is happening while sitting still you are most likely not getting enough air flow across the radiator.what kind of fan are you using?any idea what cfm it pulls?i use twin strait blade flexa lite fans,they pull 4800 cfm and work great.View attachment 139975double check you timming as well.
 
Today I took the blower belt off and let it run to see if that made a difference. Same problem.
 
How long did you let it idle and how hot did it get? What gauge are you using to monitor the temperature?
 
Sorry if this is probably overly ****, but maybe it will save a bunch of stupid back & forth questions, more information will always help... Possibly ignition timing wrong, maybe too far retarded, possibly or even too lean too, can cause those issues... what type of fuel you use can & will effect engine heat too, even spark plug heat ranges can add to it... what type of fuel are you using ?? what type of ignition & timing setting ?? what compression ratio ?? what heads ?? what camshaft ?? what size combustion chambers ?? what type of exhaust ?? how much under or overdrive in the blower ?? {although you said it was the same without the blower} what size & width radiator ?? does it even have a thermostat ?? if so what temp ?? or at-least a restrictor to slow the coolant flow down so it cools when it's in the radiator ?? what type of coolant are you using, if any ?? {there are additives like "purple ice" or wetter than water, that will sometimes help raise the boiling point or drop the engine temps, there's also waterless coolant like Evans Waterless Coolant, it ain't cheap, like $32 a gallon, but could be an option too}... have you check to make sure the lower or upper hose isn't collapsing?? do you have a overflow tank ?? what #psi pressure is the radiator cap ?? {for something like every PSI over like 16psi, it takes an additional 20* to reach the boiling point of the coolant} that is if the electric water pump {what gpm flow rate ??} & electric fan are adequate size {how many cfm ??} & flow rate &/or the radiator is sized properly & flows freely... what size cylinder over bore is it ?? what are the clearances are they loose or tight ??... the type of oil or lack of oil somewhere, can effect engine heat drastically too... If we can get some of these questions answered, maybe it will help others diagnose the overheating problems... good luck & happy Moparing
 
Seems like some engines tend to overheat more often after a fresh rebuild. The higher friction of new parts rubbing against each other until they have "Mated" , is prob a big factor here. Especially the piston rings against the cyl wall, creates extra friction until they have been run in awhile. Also retarded ignition timing will really add to a heating problem. What initial timing are you running? With out a blower, you can start with 10 to 16 degrees of ignition advance. Try driving it around a little to seat the rings and loosen up the motor. Probably best to leave the blower belt off and use 12 deg initial advance. Does it run ok with no blower belt? How much centrifugal advance is built into the distributor? I run 20 deg of initial advance on my 451 at 13 to 1 C/R. Tons of low end torque with it timed like that. Stock radiator, no heat issues.
 
The Blower at idle takes at least 20 Horsepower to operate. If the engine is poorly timed it will over heat in a flash. Also the electric fans do not draw enough air without a full "Plate" Shroud".
 
It will probably cool better while driving around at moderate speeds. You want some load on the engine to seat the rings against the cyl wall. A light or no load on a new engine can "glaze" the cyl walls which can prevent proper sealing of the rings.
 
Is that rad a champion cc375. Wouldnt cool my 440 stroker if it is.
 
over heat

Is that rad a champion cc375. Wouldnt cool my 440 stroker if it is.

First off thanks to all for takin the time to chime in.

Ok....this is where im at.its been down the strip 4 times so I think its broke in.Its not a stroker.452cu/in.eddy heads that are stock.cam is a blower cam, so not alot of lope.
Im thinkin cooling fan issue, and heres why.
It was 69 degrees this weekend outside.i used a laser pointer temperater gauge to test temp of engine while running.car gauge read 220, laser pointer read 201 1 inch necxt to temperature sender . radiator was 180 in fan area, but 201 out side of fan area.

Also, timing initial is 20. Comp is 8.5/1. 10% underdrive. I run premium.
I think I need to run dual fans boxed in the full size of radiator.
 
what is this in and how wide is the opening? 22"or26" I have a 26" wide OE rad, a SS fan and an OE shroud. Hemi, 6-71, 15 OD and drive it all the time in the heat. and yes at stop lights it will creep up, but not over 220. I think my shroud is the key. and a 26" rad.
 
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