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Ebay find procomp 440 aluminum heads for $969

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Personally and from experience I'd go with the 440 Source heads, right @ $900 and a close copy of the 906 heads with improvements. I've had a lot of good luck with em. Direct from the source for less money, no e-bay worries
 
Personally and from experience I'd go with the 440 Source heads, right @ $900 and a close copy of the 906 heads with improvements. I've had a lot of good luck with em. Direct from the source for less money, no e-bay worries

And I can say the opposite...
The castings of these heads are just fine! If you are interested in the Victor style head, then I wouldn't hesitate!
I own a set of the ProComp Victor heads and have had the valves out and inspected the seats. The valves are stainless and the seats look nice. I put solvent in the ports to check for leaks around the valves and nothing came through... Compression and leak down tests once on the engine shows no signs of leakage.
I'm not sure why anyone would compare a Stealth head with a Victor head? They are not the same type or class of cyl head. The Victor style head is completely different by design than a stealth or even an Edel performer head.
The only down side is having to purchase special offset rocker arms to use them. This can be a little pricey in itself, but I think the expense is well worth it.
When comparing the Edelbrock Victor against the ProComp Victor, you'll find some things that you may or may not want to address. On Edelbrocks Vitor head, they use steel thread in inserts on all the rocker and exh bolt holes, and ProComp does not. If you think it's an issue, put some thread inserts in yourself. I have also heard some bark about using the wrong size valves in both Stealth and Victor ProComp heads. I can't speak about the Stealth heads, but I know the seats in mine were machined to fit the larger 2.25" intake valves. This is done to reduce cost by replacing the 2.20" with a readily available aftermarket "larger" BB Chevy valve, 2.25". I also found that the exh valves are that of a aftermarket BB chevy. I replaced a couple of mine as a result in a cam failure at RPM! I have to also comment on how well things stayed together with no other failure then two bent valves. The valves didn't snap, the guides didn't come out, the threads on the rocker shafts didn't strip out, NOTHING.....
So when I say they are fine to purchase, I do so with the stated facts on my personal findings.
 
One more thing to keep in mind,,,, The chamber design on the Victor heads "edelbrock or procomp" have a Heart shaped chamber. This differs from the old "D" shape chamber found on factory heads and I think performer and stealth heads too. The Heart shape design has been studied and found to work better than the old method "D" stlye, and do require a different shaped Dome piston if you ever plan on having domes of anything over .150" or so! I use .140" standard dome type with .040" head gasket and get away with it, but would not run any higher dome without a different "more expensive" dome type. This will yield around 13.5:1 comp ratio, and plenty high for street use!
 
With these procomps on ebay, can i use my factory rockers and pushrods? If not, which allum heads can i use them on?
 
ProComp heads use an off set rocker which can be pricy. You can use your factory rockers and push rods with the 440 source and as far as I know with the Edelbrock.
 
Why skimp on the most important part of your motor. I wont use anything but Indy or Edelbrock.
 
If you shop carefully the American stuff is not much more expensive in the grand scheme of things.

I paid $1400 shipped for my EDELBROCK Victor MW heads with valves.

I then paid $1000 shipped for Hughes to CNC port them during the porting special.

$2500 for ~380CFM at .700 lift is a pretty good deal in my book...

I know a dollar is a dollar and I am the first guy to use a Chinese crank/rods but IMO heads and valve train (lifters/rockers/springs/push rods) should be where we are spending money. That said if I was going to run a solid cam with reasonable spring pressures I'd be looking very at the Procomp stuff. Not sure I'd be ok with running big spring pressure and a solid roller at 7500 RPM hoping the seats don't fall out of the head.

Lots of other variables come into the equation when a MW port window is employed but that is another topic.
 
But can u use factory rockers and pushrods
Heck no you cant......
These things use special design offset rockers "just like the Edelbrock version".....
The casting of the heads are very thick! They are great as a bare head, buy the valve brand you like and springs to match your camshaft.... Send them to the shop to have a good multi angle valve job, and your done........
You can spring for the CNC port work if you like,,,,, or just a good cleanup by hand to get them flowing a bit more than OOTB.....
This is the same stuff you would be doing with the Edelbrock (higher price) version.....

Forgot to mention:
They do not have steel thread inserts for the rocker hold down shafts like the Edelbrock versions..... However, they do have some pretty deep tapped holes, and you can use long fasteners..... If it really bothers you,,, you can have inserts put in..... I didn't tho and they have been running for three seasons now without one issue!
 
anyone seen any impressive 1/4 mile numbers from these tall valve pro-comp/ victors after cnc machining compared to ported 906's or mopar stage 6's flowing around 300-320's ? seen a few mopar stage 6 standard raised (not MW) mild ported heads, 440's std stroke, doing high 9's with mopar 590 solid in 3500lb cars.. 15 years ago. I just haven't seen anything better so far from the victors maybe haven't seen the right combinations.
 
I bought a set of these last year and haven't put them on a motor yet. I got an email from another guy asking about the valve stem heights. Sure enough, the exhausts were about .100 higher than the intakes when I put a straight edge on them. I measured spring height and found that to be where the difference is. It was 2.06 on exhaust and 1.96 on the intakes. Did you see the same difference? I did a lot of research and found these heads were soft material on the first runs then QC tightened up, I guess?, and now they are considered a very good casting by many builders. They say they toss anything that moves and use the castings only. Oddly enough, all the reports I read say they do the same with the Indy, Stealth, and Edelbrock. Preference maybe? If you read enough stuff they are all junk from what I have read.
 
I bought a set of these last year and haven't put them on a motor yet. I got an email from another guy asking about the valve stem heights. Sure enough, the exhausts were about .100 higher than the intakes when I put a straight edge on them. I measured spring height and found that to be where the difference is. It was 2.06 on exhaust and 1.96 on the intakes. Did you see the same difference? I did a lot of research and found these heads were soft material on the first runs then QC tightened up, I guess?, and now they are considered a very good casting by many builders. They say they toss anything that moves and use the castings only. Oddly enough, all the reports I read say they do the same with the Indy, Stealth, and Edelbrock. Preference maybe? If you read enough stuff they are all junk from what I have read.

You've said it well!
I read all the same things you have described above.....
I have made one timed run, however I snapped my bellhousing in half during the pass..... I went 10.42 in the 1/4 that time......
 
Heads

Personally and from experience I'd go with the 440 Source heads, right @ $900 and a close copy of the 906 heads with improvements. I've had a lot of good luck with em. Direct from the source for less money, no e-bay worries

Where can I get these heads for 900 and can I use stock rockers?
 
If you are referring to Stealth heads, you can get them for $999 from 440 Source, and these will work with stock rockers. The pro comp heads DONT use stock rockers. And there is a link at the top of this thread, click on that to go to the e bay ad.
 
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