Seam Rust Removal Question

As I am trying to research and plan the bodywork restoration of my 1970 Road Runner, one element bugs me:

With the cost of doing this, I obviously want to do it RIGHT. Cutting out and replacing major rust is one thing, but how do you deal with minor rust in seams? I'm not talking about any seams that are rusted out and no longer solid, but rather seams that are really still OK, but perhaps just have the beginning of some tin worm action.

Is dipping a good thing to fix that? Pouring in some kind of penetrating rust converter/sealer? Other? Any thoughts on the best way to fix this?

See below for a couple examples.

Example of door seam - left side of picture


Example of hood seam


As always, I appreciate the help of all the experts on the forum!!

On my car, I treat hard to reach areas like that with LPS-3, which not only protects against rust but will creep and find it's way into nooks and cracks and places that you can't see. Aircraft manufacturers use it as a protectant inside wings and fuselage areas that might have condensation induced corrosion on aluminum parts. I've also sprayed it inside sills and frame areas.

http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612

Photon440 said:

On my car, I treat hard to reach areas like that with LPS-3, which not only protects against rust but will creep and find it's way into nooks and cracks and places that you can't see. Aircraft manufacturers use it as a protectant inside wings and fuselage areas that might have condensation induced corrosion on aluminum parts. I've also sprayed it inside sills and frame areas.

http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612

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that stuff appears to be an "after paint" type of thing.......... I thing the op is looking for a "prepaint" solution....... perhaps all of the above

I always thought about soaking panels in a kiddie pool of evapo-rust or similar, but dipping a unibody shell poses a whole new dilemma

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found this........ wonder if anyone has tried..........if it works, you could theoretically build a huge tub and use a type of plastic or pool liner......... how much could vinegar or lemon juice actually cost if bought in bulk?



Need a good, cheap rust remover? Here are two:

Rust Remover Recipe I

INGREDIENTS
•White vinegar

PREPARATION

1. Apply undiluted white vinegar to the rust by spraying or dabbing it on (if the object is large), or by submerging the rusted object in vinegar (if the object is small).

2. Allow the vinegar to soak in for 30 minutes. Then, rinse the object off; and dry thoroughly.

3. Repeat the process, if rust remains.

Rust Remover Recipe II

INGREDIENTS
•Borax
•Lemon juice

PREPARATION

1. Mix together equal parts Borax and lemon juice.

2. Apply the resulting solution to the rust by spraying or dabbing it on (if the object is large), or by submerging the object in a bath of the solution (if the object is small).

3. Allow the solution to soak in for 30 minutes. Then, rinse the object off; and dry thoroughly.

4. Repeat the process, if rust remains.

Benefits of Making Your Own Rust Removers
•inexpensive
•fast-acting
•no harsh chemicals or fumes

Tips and Warnings

1) Objects may appear black after being soaked in vinegar or lemon juice, but should return to their original color after being rinsed in water.

2) Borax sells under the name 20 Mule Team, and can be found on the laundry aisle.

3) Keep vinegar and Borax out of the reach of children and pets

4) Do not reuse spray bottles that have contained other chemicals

Thank you both.

Yes, I am looking for a "prepaint" solution. Something that will get in to all those nooks and crevices, neutralize, coat, kill, whatever, to ultimately protect from rust getting a hold and showing its ugly face again.

For example, if I have my doors blasted, the dings removed and then painted, they will look awesome. But there may still be some of that minor rust lurking under the paint. When water gets in the door, be it from rain or washing the car, it will sit in that little space where the door skin attaches to the door frame. I want to try and protect those areas as much as possible.

Once the doors are blasted, does it make sense to use Eastwood Corroles (or similar product) to try and protect them???

as far as water from washing and rain getting inside the doors........... the bottoms of the doors can be sealed from the inside for the most part and along with making sure the drain holes are clear will keep the seam dry..........but does not address the initial question of removing rust from the seam.......

fyi, I sand blasted the jambs on my GTX doors and epoxy primed them over 10 years ago....... they have no signs of rust creeping out of the seam, but they have never seen weather either

the only way to get in there is with chemicals.
i use products like
ospho or rust mort for getting into crusty seams..

Ospho or just plain Phosphoric acid, buy your self a bag of Citric acid. Mix it up and soak the part. I am not sure why you would mix Borax with lemon Juice since it will neutralizes each other.

I had my doors, trunk lid, hood and fenders dipped and they come out looking like new metal!

mikeyfrano said:

I had my doors, trunk lid, hood and fenders dipped and they come out looking like new metal!

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where? these guys pop right up on a google search.......... http://metaldipping.com/index.php in oregon

http://www.americanmetalcleaninginc.com/home.html in ohio

prices are reasonable........ shipping would make it a little pricey.........

eldubb440: Thanks for the link.

It is hard to determine what is the right thing to do. In doing some internet research, you see stories that range from dipping being the greatest thing to do to the worst. Many stories are unsubstantiated, so I don't feel I can trust them. Based on my limited research, I don't doubt that dipping can be done effectively if done well by a competent business. I also don't doubt there can be problems, especially if the chemicals are not fresh. It also seems that most of these types of places have gone out of business. I have no doubt that environmental regulations have made it very expensive to operate that type of business.

Of course, blasting a car can be done wrong too. The bottom line I guess is to go to a competent operator that is experienced and has good credentials.

I am sort of leaning towards blasting the car and then pouring/spraying rust converting chemicals into the seams and trying to make sure it seeps in to all the critical areas.

For those of you who have NOT dipped your car, what did you do for internal, hidden areas to treat and protect them?

Look on Eastwoods web site, they sell a lot of the stuff your looking for

The co. I used is in chicago n they have another one in indy. It cost me $750 it took a little while but well worth it. Dorry still don't have the name but ill post it soon after I talk to my bodyman. The dip is not acid its chemicals and dose not eat away at the metal