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Advice on a turbocharged 440cui engine build.

Kalle

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First, please excuse me if i'm posting in wrong forum, or as i suspect this questions been answered before.
Searched but didn't find it all.

Ok, so i am planing on on turbocharger and fuel injection for my 440cui.

The engine is going in my 70 Coronet 4dr sedan, and i want a driveble car for "everyday" use, but with that little extra when... needed... :dontknow:

The ground is a more or less a mild/mid street build, with forged H beam rods and forged pistons. Balanced and weighted. Compression ratio @ about 8.5-9:1. Looking to get around or a bit more than 400hp?
The turbo setup is not yet clear, but a fairly quick spool, @ 2-2500rpm and max rpm set to about 6-6500rpm.
A max boost pressure for 20psi.
Hoping to reach somewhere like 700hp at crank, 800 at the most... :sunny:
The fuel and ignition will be mastered by something like LinkG4 or Megasquirt... Nothing decided there yet.:read:

The drivetrain will be a tf 727 prepped for the torq and hp, a 2-2500rpm stall converter and stock suregrip 8 3/4 rearend w 3:55gear.

My questions are, im planing on running stock 440 block (1974) and cast crank, will it hold?
Some say it will not hold at all, some say its no problemeo? Not looking to get down the dragstrip, just wants a fun sleeper...

What do you think?
Im in the planing process now, trying to figure things out. Want a good foundation but as the most not wanting to spend every penny. :argue: <wife...

Thanks!

Kalle
 
A 440 car for an everyday driver? You be the man......hope you own your own gas station......not gonna be cheap.......
There is a 69 Charger running around in this area (SE Michigan) that has a Gen 2 hemi, with twin turbochargers and fuel injected.......I was told pushing over 1000hp.....and it's seems to be very "streetable" and uses pump gas.......
 
if you're going to turbo keep the cr ratio below 9, turbo equals a lot of boost pressure and heat and your going to have detonation problems to deal with with anything over 9. for 10 and up cr they recommend methanol injection. I know with a super charger 8.7 seems to be the most common cr. also check out the super charger store .com they have turbo info
good luck with that project it's gonna be very fast
 
Even with the low compression 20 lbs sounds like a lot of boost to me, for a daily I probably wouldn't want to kiss much more than 15. But honesly I wouldn't risk a cast crank, go forged!

I'm eventuall going with a procharger on my 440 with FAST injection, they have a setup designed to work with boost, less adjustable than megasquirt but you could always substitute their ecu with a megasquirt one (buy the rest of the hard parts from them separately)

Also how are you planning on routing everything? Making your own manifold or?
 
I think there are a lot of advantages for going turbo EFI for a street driver. Once dialed in I bet you will do fairly well on fuel if you can keep your foot out of it. You can probably get away with the stock bottom end but since you haven't done anything yet you might consider a cross bolt conversion using ProGram main caps. I'd also go with a quality aftermarket steel crank like K1. Now, if you want to keep the boost and output mild, then you can use the stock bottom end and even cast pistons. There was a turbo kit available for class A motorhomes and those engines were late model 440's with terribly low compression. Check it out -
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=6751.0
 
Turbos are interesting and I plan to start a project probably next winter.
I think you can do some tradeoffs...a higher static comp will probably give a more responsive engine at low revs when boost is low, or not there, and max boost can be kept lower. With a fuel like E85 detonation is less of a problem.
 
Welcome to the forum.

You might get away with your bottom end, but there are many sites that warn about going to a hard block if you're planning on much over 600 hp. And your engine won't care if you're at the strip or just having fun, full throttle is the same stress either way.

Good luck, let us know as things progress.
 
your going to be very happy with performance, I had a late eighties Plymouth laser rated at 173 hp and that thing would flat out scoot, 400hp turbo will be wicked
 
You are my new hero doing that in a daily driver 4 door Kalle. I can't help you with the technicals and will leave that to these heavy hitters but look forward to how this goes.

Mind showing some pics of the steed this thing is gonna go in for us in the peanut gallery?
 
Great inputs! Thanks.

The reason for go with megasquirt, VEMS or LinkG4 is there are so many possibilities. (LinkG4 is what i want, but its a bit pricy...:icon_silent:)
Im planing on a modified intake manifold with separate injectors, picking parts like trottlebody and other hardware from the aftermarket. I also want to be able to use the knocksensors to adjust the ignition, as it going to be controlled by the ECU/EFI system as well.
The boost is going to be adjusteble, so it wouldn't be that hard on cruise, just want´s the power to be there when... needed? :icon_madu:

As for fuel consuming I'm thinking my old Dodge have less (read none) price drop over time, they are taxfree here in sweden and insurance are a bargain compared to newer "performance" cars... So i figured i rather spend money on gas then the other boring stuff... :tongue3:

The car is chassie upgraded to a Hemi suspension with antisway and all that already, and i have no plans to do much more there, therfore i dont think i will have allot of traction? :eusa_shifty: And the setup will be rather easy on the drivetrain. If i can keep the rpm low i think the abuse of the engine will be rather mild... Except for the rare times i heve to go bananas! :pink banana:
(I might like a Hotchkis upgrade later, but i kind of like the idea of it too be a bit vicious to drive, keep the adrenalin up :3gears:)

I will look in to a crank, only ive heard the cast cranks are lighter than the forged ones? To keep a light rotating mass was my thinking... But now ive found data saying there are none to very little difference on the weight?
The cross bolt conversions looks like a god thing tho, despite what type of crank it will suport!
I was even considering a racing rated aftermarket block and crank, but thinking then i can just *** well build a real monster engine?
Keeping costs down is one thing, building within the limits of what a stock engine is capable of is another.. Stupid as it may sound? The main thing is that i want it to look stock for uninvited ones, keep it all under the hood...

The car is now all tearen down for some bodywork, but i drove it one summer after swaping the org slant6 to a 440... So this is what i started with:
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Hi Halle! Wanting to build a 400-B-Block based stroker for mine. Mega-squirt is part of the plan. I also want sequential, not batch-fire, so a camshaft position sensor will be needed. I also want to eliminate the dizzy, and do a coil-per-plug set-up. So I would need to blank-off the dizzy hole, plus provide support for the oil pump drive. The top would be a pair of small turbos to minimize lag. Build the pressure early and low, make the torque, and dont spin the motor fast. That could be a great combo. Try to have all the power done by 5500. Go beyond that and you have to start figuring for centrifugal forces. And those parts start costing money.
 
Have heard of blocks standing up to 750 Hp,but not a cast crank. Build it with the good stuff,might take a little longer but it will stand up to the future beating it will take:eusa_whistle:


BOOST is a wonderfull thing,I can't wait to feel more than 8 lbs:icon_sunny:
 
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