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New guy with 440 Questions

Z-Bee

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Dec 11, 2013
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So Ive been a Mopar lover since my first car, '73 Duster. I now have a '68 coronet that I am going to put a 440 in. Bought the 440 off craigslist and the owner only new that it was rebuilt by a high school shop class a few years back and has never been fired up. I wanted to do as much research on the engine before I put it in and fire it up. Block stamp is 2536430-3 which makes it a 1966-72 440. The heads are 28439906 which makes them 906 heads. The crank is forged steel because of the wide parting lines. Comp cams roller race timing set.
So what I need help with is I can't I.D. the camshaft and I don't want to pull it. Took the timing chain cover off and no numbers on the front of the cam. I also need to know about the pistons and possibly the connecting rods. How do I I.D. them? The pistons all have 030 in blue on the side visible with the oil pan off. Does that mean the block has been bored 0.30? What size carb will I need? I will be running hooker ceramic coated headers and a 727 tanny. Right now it has a stock 4 barrel intake but I would like to upgrade to a dual plane.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I have found a ton of info on this site so thank you all.
 
Block is .030 over bore. As for what intake, carb,etc, without cam specs,iimpossible. However, you could use a degree wheel and dial indicator to measure lift and degree, and work out what it is...
 
Block is .030 over bore. As for what intake, carb,etc, without cam specs,iimpossible. However, you could use a degree wheel and dial indicator to measure lift and degree, and work out what it is...

X2...
That's the only way to know what camshaft you have,,, Measure it.... You could pull it out and Mic the lobes, set it in V blocks with a degree wheel stuck on the front and a dial indicator to calculate the duration.. Every other question could be answered "suggestions" once you get that data....
 
I'd say a 750 CFM.
Try getting the Engine started, see how it runs before you pull CAM (in my opinion)
Built by a "Shop-class" I'd bet its a good engine!
(if what he said is accurate)

Go back to the school or contact the school Induatrial Arts teacher, I'll bet he knows.

-Usually, if your cammed "to large" you will know because the cam will require more fuel and a smaller carb wil not give the engine enough.
You will get mis-fires, undetectable with out proper diagnostic equipment.
Heck, in this case a simple SMOG check will tell you.
1. You will have raw gas coming out exhaust ,2,000+/- reading for Hydrocarbons if carb is too small due to mis-fire.
2. A Tuned set-up will be in the low 20s for Hydrocarbons., all cylinders firing.
-It's opposite of what you may think.
But, being built by a High School, I'll bet it's a nice "street-able" build.
Seems sensible, using 906 heads, a nice crank.
Yup, start with a Holley 750.
(My opinion)
 
So Ive been a Mopar lover since my first car, '73 Duster. I now have a '68 coronet that I am going to put a 440 in. Bought the 440 off craigslist and the owner only new that it was rebuilt by a high school shop class a few years back and has never been fired up. I wanted to do as much research on the engine before I put it in and fire it up. Block stamp is 2536430-3 which makes it a 1966-72 440. The heads are 28439906 which makes them 906 heads. The crank is forged steel because of the wide parting lines. Comp cams roller race timing set.
So what I need help with is I can't I.D. the camshaft and I don't want to pull it. Took the timing chain cover off and no numbers on the front of the cam. I also need to know about the pistons and possibly the connecting rods. How do I I.D. them? The pistons all have 030 in blue on the side visible with the oil pan off. Does that mean the block has been bored 0.30? What size carb will I need? I will be running hooker ceramic coated headers and a 727 tanny. Right now it has a stock 4 barrel intake but I would like to upgrade to a dual plane.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I have found a ton of info on this site so thank you all.

welcome to FBBO from a fellow Californian, for all around performance a Eddy Performer RPM Dual Plane intake manifold works very well, especially with a good Holley 750cfm-850cfm Vac. Sec. w/electric choke style carb & an auto or even better yet a Quickfuel Holley, you'll probably will need a drop-base air-cleaner to help with hood clearance & use a K&N or gauze type filter element you will be extremely happy...
 
The cam # is stamped on the Back side of the cam NOT the front.
All that has been said here is good but if you realy need to know you have to pull it !
 
Hey, why not just pull the cam and find out for sure if you're curious. While you're at it, pull a head and take some measurements to find the compression ratio. If nothing else, it will make for a fun weekend.
 
Thanks for all the info. I pulled the rear cam plug and no #'s. A retired Mopar mechanic that I bought my rebuilt 727 from told me that if there weren't any #'s on the rear end of the camshaft that it was a stock cam or stock equivalent. So now I am thinking cam kit. I would go straight to the 528 stroker kit from 440 source but I would like to save some money for the suspension, interior and paint and wheels. So are there any parts I can add that I will still be able to use when I do go to the stroker? I need front and rear torsion bars, I need to have the front seat recovered (either the bench or the set of buckets I have) and I would also like to go larger than the 14" wheels I have on now so that I can put on the 11.75 disc swap (I already have the spindles and K-H pin calipers and brackets, still need the 11.75 discs, suggestions?) I am planning on going with Hooker headers 1.875" diameter HOK-5903-1HKR, will I be able to use these with my Stoker? I also found out I need a new oil pan to fit my 68 b body 402 stamped pan is what I'm told will work. Thanks again and I'll post picks during the process. Oh and what kind of power could I expect if I don't change anything and run a 750 carb?
 
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