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What intake?

Cranky

Banned Henchman #27
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Engine in question is a 440 with mildly ported 516 heads with 1.74 exhausts, 2.08 intake. Pocket ported and blended up into the ports, valve guide protrusion totally removed from exhaust side, intake side teardropped, Hemi grind cam, stock bore cast pistons (.050 down) with steel shim gaskets, 10.3-1 compression. Engine will see a 3100 lb car with driver. Transmission will be automatic with 3000 or so converter. Have an M1 on the shelf for a low deck and am thinking if it will work fine I'll make some spacers to fit it.
 
Sounds like you have your mind made up with the M1 already. ha ha ha
The manifold test Hot Rod did a few years ago is good reading. Although they are B intakes the results should be helpful with an RB setup.

Part 1
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0712_mopar_intake_manifold_comparo/

Part 2
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0801_mopar_intake_manifolds/viewall.html

Most people will say that the Performer RPM is the manifold to use. Judging buy the tests it does make more power than the M1 on average from 3100-6500. How much height difference between the M1 and RPM? The RPM's are pretty tall, you might have to run a scoop? Is the horsepower difference enough to warrant going out and buying an RPM?
I have been looking of an RB RPM for a while and finally found one at a decent price. Most used ones were damn near price of new. Haven't installed it yet, worried that it might not fit under the hood. Have a Torker II now, some test I've seen the T2 isn't that far behind the RPM.
 
I vote Weiand...I got one on my 383...very happy with it
 
I use the Performer RPM topped with a 800cfm Thunder series and low profile air cleaner in my 62 Savoy. A scoop was needed as it sticks up 1/4 inch through the hood. I had a speed demon 750, on a streetmaster intake before. There was about 3lbs of weight lost in the change as well as 7 tenths at the strip. The car is 3170lbs has 3.23 gears, 727 trans and 3000 stall converter.
 
The hemi grind cam will like a single plane or a very free flowing dual plane with the divider cut down a bit. What's the M1? I have something I think is called an M1 and it looks like an aluminum copy of the factory iron intake. If that is what you have I think you can do better for that cam. Even a CH4B will be better than the factory configuration.
 
a dual plane will give you more low end torque. I am using a torker II single plane on my 440, it really starts to come on over 3,000 rpm, but I want something that will work better around 2,000 , so I am going to try one or both of these.

Edelbrock 7193
rpm.jpg
Edelbrock 2191
rpm1.jpg
 
Sounds like you have your mind made up with the M1 already. ha ha ha
The manifold test Hot Rod did a few years ago is good reading. Although they are B intakes the results should be helpful with an RB setup.

Part 1
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0712_mopar_intake_manifold_comparo/

Part 2
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0801_mopar_intake_manifolds/viewall.html

Most people will say that the Performer RPM is the manifold to use. Judging buy the tests it does make more power than the M1 on average from 3100-6500. How much height difference between the M1 and RPM? The RPM's are pretty tall, you might have to run a scoop? Is the horsepower difference enough to warrant going out and buying an RPM?
I have been looking of an RB RPM for a while and finally found one at a decent price. Most used ones were damn near price of new. Haven't installed it yet, worried that it might not fit under the hood. Have a Torker II now, some test I've seen the T2 isn't that far behind the RPM.



That is a great manifold comparison article... If results equate with RB engine too, then M1 would be a fair choice..
I would reconsider hemi grind cam unless you already have it. (Yes it's a classic, but better modern grinds out there from Comp, Lunati etc)
 
That is a great manifold comparison article... If results equate with RB engine too, then M1 would be a fair choice..
I would reconsider hemi grind cam unless you already have it. (Yes it's a classic, but better modern grinds out there from Comp, Lunati etc)
The engine is still on a stand but the cam is degreed in etc. I have other cams but they are all a lot more radical and wasn't planning on making this engine anything more than mild especially with the heads that are on it.
 
Engine in question is a 440 with mildly ported 516 heads with 1.74 exhausts, 2.08 intake. Pocket ported and blended up into the ports, valve guide protrusion totally removed from exhaust side, intake side teardropped, Hemi grind cam, stock bore cast pistons (.050 down) with steel shim gaskets, 10.3-1 compression. Engine will see a 3100 lb car with driver. Transmission will be automatic with 3000 or so converter. Have an M1 on the shelf for a low deck and am thinking if it will work fine I'll make some spacers to fit it.

Direct comparison between the Edelbrock RPM, Torker II and the M1 single plane on line #46.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=261378&page=2

No spacer was used as the carburetor was bolted directly to the M1 manifold. When we went to the 2" spacer we bolted the spacer to the M1 without a spreadbore to 4150 spacer.
 
The engine is still on a stand but the cam is degreed in etc. I have other cams but they are all a lot more radical and wasn't planning on making this engine anything more than mild especially with the heads that are on it.

the m1 seems a bit radical for the hemi grind and your mild goal.a good dual plane is a much better choice.it will give you much better street charicteristics and low end torque will be there for casual driving.that m1 is better suited for a race motor seeing high rpms on a regular basis.intake manifold and cam should match optimal rpm power bands to get the most hp for your buck.
 
From past runs that intake is a good 4 Speed intake and lacks in low end pull. Now the top one in super 77se's post would give you Alot better throttle response !
 
This hemi grind cam is the same one from the 80's? .474 / 280 on a 110 LSA? Because I think they made another version on a wider LSA. That old cam did really well with torker intake in a 383. I think that's a great cam to wake up a stock headed engine. I'm running the one below that (.455 / 272) and love it. The 280 deg cam should run right up to 6000 RPM so I'd try that single plane intake you have. The performer RPM would probably be my first choice if you were shopping, but you already have the one. Try it!
 
This hemi grind cam is the same one from the 80's? .474 / 280 on a 110 LSA? Because I think they made another version on a wider LSA. That old cam did really well with torker intake in a 383. I think that's a great cam to wake up a stock headed engine. I'm running the one below that (.455 / 272) and love it. The 280 deg cam should run right up to 6000 RPM so I'd try that single plane intake you have. The performer RPM would probably be my first choice if you were shopping, but you already have the one. Try it!
yup, dats the one. .474/280. iirc, 230 at .050 and ended up with 2 or 3 degrees advance when I dropped it in. I stenciled the pad but now that paint is on it, I can barely read it now. If I would have had the old .484/284 laying around when I did this engine, it would have got that instead because I know that one runs pretty good with decent compression.
 
Isn't the Holley Street Dominator rated way up there????
 
Isn't the Holley Street Dominator rated way up there????

Yes. And that intake that Cranky has looks very much like it. That's why I said use it.

- - - Updated - - -

yup, dats the one. .474/280. iirc, 230 at .050 and ended up with 2 or 3 degrees advance when I dropped it in. I stenciled the pad but now that paint is on it, I can barely read it now. If I would have had the old .484/284 laying around when I did this engine, it would have got that instead because I know that one runs pretty good with decent compression.

In my experience that .484" was the kiss of death in every engine it was in. Granted it was probably a compression issue - as in people putting in too much cam for the stock short block - so I just stayed away from it. I ran an Isky .465" / 280 on a 108 LSA in my 915 headed 383 and it worked!
 
Yes. And that intake that Cranky has looks very much like it. That's why I said use it.

- - - Updated - - -



In my experience that .484" was the kiss of death in every engine it was in. Granted it was probably a compression issue - as in people putting in too much cam for the stock short block - so I just stayed away from it. I ran an Isky .465" / 280 on a 108 LSA in my 915 headed 383 and it worked!
I've had a pretty good amount of experience with that old .484 cam in both low and higher comp engines however, the lower comp engines liked a lot of ignition timing and a bit more than normal cam timing.
 
Either use what you have cause they're all pretty close. Or get the best one for you application which is the Performer RPM. It will make MORE power than any other intake to 5500RPM period. We swapped one onto my buddy's mild 440 Duster. It has a Comp 305 H, big hydraulic. It had an old single plane on it. It picked up .7 thats right 7 tenths. No other changes.
Doug
 
I'm running a M1 on my 440 but I took a grinder and opened up the top a bit better to get rid of the spread bore and make it a plain open for my Holley dp. I've seen alot of articles and this intake is a good flowing one. I remember one where they put the race one on amd ran the engine on the dyno and it made more power over the super victor plus it doesn't sit as high.
 
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