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Can an 833 4 speed be mated to a 318?

NJRR

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What needs to be done to convert a 70 Satellite with a 318 and a 904 to an A-833 4 speed? What bellhousing, flywheel size and clutch? Is the driveshaft the same ( it has an 8 3/4 rear)? Same input shaft on the A-833? Thanks gents. I know someone has an answer for me.
 
If you divide A 33 by 3 that should take care of 3 18's so I guess the mating would take care of itself
 
The 340 bellhousing will work,but be sure your crank is drilled for a stick. The output shaft extends into the crank, unlike an automatic. Then the shifting Issue is the next problem.
 
"Then the shifting Issue is the next problem." ?????????????????????????
 
You should be able to just use A body 340 clutch and bell housing and bolt a long shaft B body tranny to it. Drive shaft will be different including the slip yoke.

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Do you have a tranny yet? I have lots of parts and can build you one with the early A body gear set. The 3.09:1 1st with a tall rear end gear will act like a 3.55.
 
what I meant was going from an automatic, then the shifter and everything else has to be installed, and that steering column that used to be an automatic now should be changed as well.
 
I have 2 small block aluminum bell housings available, $100 each plus shipping from the Detroit area.
Meeps, that's the route I'm going in the "DOG".
 
Meep- I have the tranny already, contemplating the car. That's the reason for my post. Was wondering what the conversion involved. I'm trying to verify what transmission is in the car now. Seller says a 727 and it's original. Fender tag says it came with a 904. I'm supposed to get a pic of the trans pan to verify today.

You should be able to just use A body 340 clutch and bell housing and bolt a long shaft B body tranny to it. Drive shaft will be different including the slip yoke.

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Do you have a tranny yet? I have lots of parts and can build you one with the early A body gear set. The 3.09:1 1st with a tall rear end gear will act like a 3.55.

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Matt- If I get the car, I'll contact you about the bell housing. Thanks.

I have 2 small block aluminum bell housings available, $100 each plus shipping from the Detroit area.
Meeps, that's the route I'm going in the "DOG".

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It's already a console shift and steering column was changed. I have a pistol grip shifter already. :)

what I meant was going from an automatic, then the shifter and everything else has to be installed, and that steering column that used to be an automatic now should be changed as well.
 
You'll also need to cut and weld in a hump in the floorpan for the shifter, change the pedal assy. to a 3 pedal one, and add a gusset plate where it bolts through.
 
The conversion is not hard at all if you know what you need. To add the clutch pedal all you need are the two pedals, the longer shaft, "THE SPRING" with anchor pin and the bracket that supports the left side of the clutch pedal. You do not need to remove or change out the main pedal bracket. However, removing the main bracket and assembling the pedals on the bench is much easier than trying to hook up that huge spring.
 
I have most of the parts for the conversion. I started a couple of threads on converting my 70 RR to a 4 speed. I have someone who is interested in buying the RR though and I found the 70 Satty for a decent price, so was just trying to figure out the difference in the conversion. I found out today that the Satty's a 318/4 bbl bored 30 over with a 904 trans and an 8.25 rear. If I put in the 4 speed, I think I would change the rear to an 8.75 too. So just crunching the numbers to see if it is cost effective.


The conversion is not hard at all if you know what you need. To add the clutch pedal all you need are the two pedals, the longer shaft, "THE SPRING" with anchor pin and the bracket that supports the left side of the clutch pedal. You do not need to remove or change out the main pedal bracket. However, removing the main bracket and assembling the pedals on the bench is much easier than trying to hook up that huge spring.
 
The conversion is not hard at all if you know what you need. To add the clutch pedal all you need are the two pedals, the longer shaft, "THE SPRING" with anchor pin and the bracket that supports the left side of the clutch pedal. You do not need to remove or change out the main pedal bracket. However, removing the main bracket and assembling the pedals on the bench is much easier than trying to hook up that huge spring.
I stand corrected. I had changed out the whole assy. on my '72, but it was completely apart anyway. Good to know this, though!
 
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