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Uh oh...trunk stamp dont match.

Robe81

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Exactly what it says.

When I bought the car I was unaware of the trunk stamp being an indicator of authenticity. I of course knew about the fender tag and VIN as well as the radiator stamp, all of which match. Engine as well.

Doing some research on this site, I found out about the trunk stamp. Checked it today and thats a big negative. Doesn't match. Further the windshield guy let me know that he could tell the VIN plate has been removed at least once in order to paint the dash. From everything I've researched/figured out, it looks like somebody had condition 1 Roadrunner and what was probably a good condition satellite. The seats arent the original and the dash was swapped out. The rear end is still an 8 3/4, but only has 2.74 gears and no LSD. My car was an original 3:91 sure grip.

Does the incorrect trunk stamp simply indicate the quarter panel was swapped or is this something worse?

The lessons in purchasing a classic car just keep on coming....

Thanks in advance.
 
I have almost the same issue. VIN, fender, rad all match but rear trunk rail #'s made no sense. I think mine was in a rear eneder and one of the PO's fixed it himself or had a sloppy body shop do it, when I got my car it had a 68 rear bumper on it. reverse light wires shorting out on frame fuse pulled lol. and the driver side tail light bucket where the paint is chipped shows metal and not original paint under it like the passenger side does. Plus drivers door hinge is jacked and fit is horrible.

So it is possible you have the correct car but it has been in an accident and instead of repairing the original 1/4 they just replaced it with a satty one etc. remember in the 80's these cars still filled he junk yards.

Or your right it was a satty made to look like a RR so they could command more $$$$$. You would need to look under all the spots where they hide the numbers and find as many matches as possible to get a clue to weather it's a sat or RR. good luck either way man you have a mopar and even if it's cloned out and is a sat, then just take it back to a sat car and be happy I know I would nothing to be ashamed about having a satty they are one of my personally favorites! why cone a perfectly great ride?
 
I can tell you that if the fender tag, dash tag, engine, tranny and radiator support match then the vast majority of people overlook that the trunk # does not. It's only really consequential in my opinion when you have a highly collectible car like a 71 cuda.

Personally, I would consider your car to be numbers matching. Sh*t happens. Body panels get replaced, especially on 45 year old cars.
 
is it the last 8 digits, or last six? Things do happen. I had a 70' challenger where the fender tag and all the body vin numbers were the same, but the last number on the dash VIN# was a 3, and the body everywhere else was a 4. Same vin otherwise.
 
Ok confirmed the rear quarters have been replaced. So from what I take it, the number on the trunk stamp would be different if the quarters have been replaced correct?

- - - Updated - - -

I have almost the same issue. VIN, fender, rad all match but rear trunk rail #'s made no sense. I think mine was in a rear eneder and one of the PO's fixed it himself or had a sloppy body shop do it, when I got my car it had a 68 rear bumper on it. reverse light wires shorting out on frame fuse pulled lol. and the driver side tail light bucket where the paint is chipped shows metal and not original paint under it like the passenger side does. Plus drivers door hinge is jacked and fit is horrible.

So it is possible you have the correct car but it has been in an accident and instead of repairing the original 1/4 they just replaced it with a satty one etc. remember in the 80's these cars still filled he junk yards.

Or your right it was a satty made to look like a RR so they could command more $$$$$. You would need to look under all the spots where they hide the numbers and find as many matches as possible to get a clue to weather it's a sat or RR. good luck either way man you have a mopar and even if it's cloned out and is a sat, then just take it back to a sat car and be happy I know I would nothing to be ashamed about having a satty they are one of my personally favorites! why cone a perfectly great ride?

I completely understand and appreciate the sentiment, but I paid Roadrunner money for the car. Just have to be sure ya know?
 
Ok confirmed the rear quarters have been replaced. So from what I take it, the number on the trunk stamp would be different if the quarters have been replaced correct?

Not necessarily. They would need to change the trunk gutter as well (separate panel-not part of the quarter) Where exactly are you looking? The number should be stamped on the drivers side trunk gutter, about half way up and be covered by the trunk seal. There is a lot of P/N's stamped back there, make sure you're looking at the right #.
 
I wouldnt worry about it

but im one of those guys that stopped playing numbers a long time ago

just enjoy the car
 
Not necessarily. They would need to change the trunk gutter as well (separate panel-not part of the quarter) Where exactly are you looking? The number should be stamped on the drivers side trunk gutter, about half way up and be covered by the trunk seal. There is a lot of P/N's stamped back there, make sure you're looking at the right #.

Drivers side, 1/2 way up. It is in no way covered by the seal. It looks like the last 6 of a VIN, but not my VIN. I'll double check next time I see the car. (Currently getting the windshield replaced)
 
Stick your head under the trunk gutter. Check to see if there's imprints of numbers from the bottom side. Those numbers should be buried under the seal. P/N's are typically stamped in the drain valley of the trunk gutter. If you get a chance, take a pic.
 
The trunk rail #s are under the seal. the quater panel #s are in the gutter. The factory replacement quarters included the trunk rail & gutter. Like mentioned before, climb in the trunk and look up under the rail and see if it's there. If not start looking for evidence of a replacement panel.
 
The trunk lip, at least on my '69 Charger is a separate piece from the quarter panel and I fear the car's REAL VIN is on the trunk lip and you have a car with a VIN swap on the dash and radiator support to match VIN stamped on the motor! If the dash was swapped out, the VIN plate would have to be removed, even if the new dash stayed with the original car.

How do you know the car came with a 3.91 suregrip? Is it on the fender tag (supposedly original to this car) but a different one (2.74 open rear) now on the car?

It could be that the trunk lip was changed out and the VIN just got left there but ....... my guess is that is the real VIN for the car!
 
Can the trunk vin be ran to see if it was stolen.Thats what would worry me.
 
There's also the possibility the car had a quarter sectioned in from another car sometime in the past... a good, rust-free section would be preferable to an aftermarket panel
 
The trunk lip, at least on my '69 Charger is a separate piece from the quarter panel

Yuppers.... They are two separate parts (quarters/gutters)


tg.jpg
 
This is a '68 but should suffice.
 

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Look for signs of the rad support top cross bar being changed, good chance if it was and your vin was changed it was rebodied. Lots of this is going on these days people are buying envelope performance cars on e-bay and putting the vins on non performance bodies to get more value or because there is no title for the body.
 
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