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Can I pull the engine with the T/C attached?

CoronetDarter

CoronetDarter

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I'm in the process of pulling the 440 out of my Coronet. I've pulled engines in the past and have always been able to remove the flex plate bolts with a 3/4" box wrench. It wasn't easy but it worked. This car is not cooperating - 3 of the 4 came loose but the 4th is being stubborn. I've used 50/50 trans fluid/acetone, WD-40, still can't break it loose.

I've heard of people removing engines with the t/c still attached. The FSM warns that the t/c must be removed with the tranny otherwise front pump damage can occur.

Has anybody pulled an engine with the t/c still attached? My alternatives are to pull the eng/tranny together or drop the oil pan so I can get a socket on the bolt.
 
image_8058.jpg

this made pulling out the tranny with the engine way easier
 
Try tightening the bolt a just a little to break it free... tapping the wrench with a hammer sometimes works... using another box wrench over the end for a cheater sometimes works... there always seems to be that one... when I can't move a nut or bolt and can't get heat on it or whatever I line up on it check around for anything that will hurt in case I slip and give it some quick jabs... if you can get a floor jack under it and positioned jack up on the wrench... there's always a way
 
I would NOT pull the converter out with the motor. It can mess the trans up and then your out more $
 
Try heating up that bolt with a propane torch, heat does wonders to stubborn bolts.

And yes you can pull the motor with the tranny attached. When I did my removal/installation of my 440, we really jacked up the rear end of the car and had it sitting on 6 ton jack stands so the tranny would clear the firewall.
 
440beep said:
try heating up that bolt with a propane torch, heat does wonders to stubborn bolts.

And yes you can pull the motor with the tranny attached. When i did my removal/installation of my 440, we really jacked up the rear end of the car and had it sitting on 6 ton jack stands so the tranny would clear the firewall.
Click to expand...

x2 !!
 
do you have an extra yoke? it would be nice, to keep all that trans fluid from running out all over the place.
 
TRY THIS TRICK ; go to walmart buy a large can of hair spray , #1 spray the lug on the tourqe converter , contuiously use at least 1/2 - 3/4s of the can #2 then get on it with your long 6 -point box combination wrench , then whack the other end of wrench with a hammer should break it loose , if not repeat process ! ! ! I know W T #%^**! !! that aint gonna work ! ! HOW MUCH U WANNA BET ? ? ? I've used it more than a couple of times and IT DOES W O R K ! ! ! The secret is look on the can , it has to have propane, for the propellent -44 below zero ! ! ! TA- DA
 
Good point SpeedyRT!!! Don't even bother using a 12 point wrench/socket to get it off. YOU MUST USE A 6 point wrench/socket for the leverage. I too had one stubborn bolt, but after I heated it up and used the 6 point on it, off it came no problem.

And back to my reference about jacking the rear end, using the 6 ton jack stands, we had them all the way up or maybe one step from being fully extended. Just so you know how high I'm talking.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I do have a torch. And I never heard the hair spray trick - I'll try it if heating doesn't work. And yeah, I've been using a 12 pt., going to get a 6 pt.
 
Another thing to consider is if you pull the Torque Converter with out d-coupling it from the flex plate that you will have a big mess with all the tranny fluid that is in the TC spilling out. And there is a lot of it too!!!!
 
Got a 6 pt box and broke the bolt free on the first try. The tranny and engine are now separate entities!
 
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