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Switching from single to dual master cylinder

66four40

66four40

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Anyone care to comment on switching from a single to a dual master cylinder on a '66 Belvedere? Currently running 4 wheel drum with the single and would like a simple upgrade to dual if there is one. I don't really feel comfortable putting my wife behind the wheel to go get a case of beer and have a wheel cylinder let go and have her end up in a ravine. Not looking to go autocross racing or drag racing so no $2,000 disc brake conversion threads. Any comments would be great, or feel free to point me towards a thread that already explains it. Great site, with piles of info for a new mopar owner like me. Thanks, Derek
 
get master cylinder for any 67 "B" body drum brake car, get proportioning valve and the 2 lines from master cylinder to valve on frame from any 67 "B" body also...easy bolt in. I did it to my 66 a while back
 
Single pot = death trap

I found out how much fun it was when my front driver side brake hose split while doing a "hey watch this" with a car full of my buddies...
 
Proportioning valve on those? I pulled the master off of a 69 Valiant for my 66 Belvedere and it only had a distribution block with the front to rear pressure warning switch...which I didn't hook up. Had to use some adapter fittings too but it worked well. You can use a proportioning valve but generally, there's not that big of a pressure difference between front and rear drums so the rear brake shoes/drums are smaller (width) than the front to keep the rears from locking up before the fronts do. The main reason why I used the smaller master is I was looking for a higher psi to help a bit with pedal pressure. A smaller diameter master will generally give you more pedal travel tho...
 
I did that same swap on my 63 new master for a 69 road runner proportioning valve from a 68 fury use stock 63 push rod works perfect
 
Blew a wheel cylinder on my '66 heading home from a car show. Limped it home by downshifting the 727 and using the parking brake. Found a '67 in a local boneyard and swapped out the master, lines, and prop valve. Piece of cake. Of course, that was 20 years ago when you could actually FIND a '66 in a boneyard!
 
Excellent feedback guys. Much appreciated. Looks like I need to start searching for a couple parts to cover my can should I have a brake system failure. Happy hot rodding!
 
You can get a brand new master cylinder for a '67 at NAPA for less than $40. I don't think you need a proportioning valve unless you are going road racing or something like that.
 
he's gonna need the OE valve that is on the frame rail from a 67 "B" body because both lines from the master cylinder go to it
 
That looks like the ticket. I just priced out the master, new from a local hod rod shop. $75 in Canadian pesos. I will keep looking for a more reasonable priced version. Keep the feedback coming!
 
that "kit" on ebay is probably the best way to go....then all you need is master cylinder and brake fluid
 
I guess the next question is too bench bleed , or in car. What's involved in bench bleeding the master. I guess I will do some research into that next.
 
you can bench bleed the master, but yer still gonna have to bleed it once it's installed in the car anyway
 
Seax440Dodge said:
Single pot = death trap

I found out how much fun it was when my front driver side brake hose split while doing a "hey watch this" with a car full of my buddies...
Click to expand...

I will try to avoid that when I get her insured this spring!

- - - Updated - - -

Good news. Going to be in Anaheim at Disney with the wife and kids in May, and classic industries sells a few parts I need, including a master for half the price , guess what, they are right around the corner. I have got the green light from my wife to go to Donut Derelicts on the Saturday we are there, and Chip Fooses shop. Did I say best wife ever. She also got me the 66 belvedere post for my 40th, which is in 3 years!
 
My buddy MowPar is in the middle of that same swap-out as we speak. The '65 Belvedere had a single pot M/C until last Friday....just getting the new wheel cylinders re-sleeved in stainless now. Will be able to show some good pics next week, and have a detailed list of parts used. We have the NZ Expert on brakes working on this car and a few others this month in preparation for the Beach Hop next weekend. :headbang:
 
Moparsmitty said:
If you want to do it the easy way, lot of places sell these kits. Not exactly cheap but makes installation a snap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-66-Dodge...der-Block-Brake-Lines-Tubes-OEM-/190829483923
Click to expand...

I looked at that kit a few years ago. I bought one of these blocks from in-tube like is shown for sale on ebay (which I still have). The problem with that kit is you will have to make new brake lines or add a section because the lines going out to the wheels are not bent to fit that distribution block. The easiest and cleanest IMO is to buy a new factory type brass distribution block (I believe in-line tube sells them) which connects to your factory brake lines without doing any modifications to the brake lines. I used the one for a 73-76 a-body with disc brakes because I converted to disc and they work great. This factory type block bolts to the factory location as your existing distribution block. When I ordered new brake lines for my 66 I requested they replace the one factory brake line going from the master to the distribution with lines from a 67 b-body. I don't remember if they charged me more. It all bolted together without doing any mods to the brake lines and looks factory. I had enough to do with the restoration and didn't want to bend and flare brake lines.

This factory type brass distribution block bolt up to your factory brake lines only out to your front and rear brake lines.
http://www.inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK250.htm

If you buy this one you will have to modify the brake lines going out to the wheels.
http://www.inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK243.htm

I was thinking the 62-65 b-body distribution block bolted at a different location than 66 and up on the frame rail?
 
Here's a few snaps of the job done just last week;

1_zps1f817c22.jpg


3_zps636cfbb2.jpg


2_zps8d280b8c.jpg


4_zps54758700.jpg


Sorry about the glare...it's just so darn hot and sunny here :headbang: This is running original drums on all 4, and pulls the car up much better than the single pot master. I will start a new thread for MowPar so as not to hijack here. Hope the pics help someone.
 
66four40 said:
Anyone care to comment on switching from a single to a dual master cylinder on a '66 Belvedere? Currently running 4 wheel drum with the single and would like a simple upgrade to dual if there is one. I don't really feel comfortable putting my wife behind the wheel to go get a case of beer and have a wheel cylinder let go and have her end up in a ravine. Not looking to go autocross racing or drag racing so no $2,000 disc brake conversion threads. Any comments would be great, or feel free to point me towards a thread that already explains it. Great site, with piles of info for a new mopar owner like me. Thanks, Derek
Click to expand...
Still have the ‘66?
 
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