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Anyone autocross their B-Bodies?

The original OEM K-Members are only stitch & spot welded from the factory, they will twist/flex some, but usually only under hard loads/cornering or violent launches with massive torque, by welding them completely, it will strengthen them more & limit most of the associated twist/flex much more...
 
The original OEM K-Members are only stitch & spot welded from the factory, they will twist/flex some, but usually only under hard loads/cornering or violent launches with massive torque, by welding them completely, it will strengthen them more & limit most of the associated twist/flex much more...

Thankyou kindly!
 
I'll get started this evening on a build thread with the pictures and go from there. I've already stripped most of the body and will be replacing the quarter panels in two weeks.
 
Is anyone running the rms alterkation kit that could comment on it? It looks like a good kit considering I need to upgrade the 4 wheel drums on my GTX as well.

I just installed the RMS on my 70 SS and it fits perfect. Totally impressed. My 6.1 Hemi dropped right in. Good clearance for my headers. Hopefully have it driving by may. RMS little pricey but so far its worth it to me. Good luck with your build.
 
I just installed the RMS on my 70 SS and it fits perfect. Totally impressed. My 6.1 Hemi dropped right in. Good clearance for my headers. Hopefully have it driving by may. RMS little pricey but so far its worth it to me. Good luck with your build.


Love your build. I just got through reading it. Good luck!
 
I know I'll be putting some pro-car seats and brackets in the old GTX. I'm not really wanting to put a cage in it though for harnesses. I want to be able to haul the family around in it. Is anyone running the QA1 k-member and arms? It looks like the cost is a little lower. I like their shocks as well.
 
I know I'll be putting some pro-car seats and brackets in the old GTX. I'm not really wanting to put a cage in it though for harnesses. I want to be able to haul the family around in it. Is anyone running the QA1 k-member and arms? It looks like the cost is a little lower. I like their shocks as well.

I have had the Capps Automotive Tubular K-Member & suspension stuff in a couple of B-Bodies & A-bodies, I just recently received a new tubular K-Member from Summit Racing & a set of SPC adj. upper control arms & I have a set of QA1 lower tubular CA's I had purchased a while ago... I have a set of the QA1/Capps adjust upper control arms & O/S aluminum strut rods & various poly bushing etc. "still in the box" from a purchase couple years ago, before QA1 bought Capps, I will sell for less than they cost me {Capps Automotive/MP Performance, from Mancini Racing}... PM me with contact information, if your interested, I can save you a few bucks...
 

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Can't comment on drivability of the RMS kit as I am still building. But, it's what I bought. Install is easy as pie! Rear a a bit more work. Especially with a Dana 60.
 
autocross in a 69 runner 440+6 is a BLAST!!!

The first year of the Hotchkis autocross in Vegas at the MATS they weren’t sure how many Mopars would try turning instead of just straight and fast so it was free to enter. I ran our 69 440+6 runner that is our raffle car this year.

Having never done this kind of thing before, I have to admit that I was a bit nervous.

John Hotchkis encouraged me and sent me out with his driver in the blue runner with the 383 on the door. I have to admit that I couldn’t even see where the course was in the sea of orange cones on that first time around but I knew I had to try it in the 6-pack runner.

Then with his driver in my car as passenger I did a slow lap to get the feel for it. Laps were free that year so I went again…and again…and again until finally it happened. After getting faster with each lap I finally overcame the grip of the front tires and mowed down some cones. DOH!

Embarrassed by this I completed my lap slowly and had pretty much decided that this wasn’t really for me. Seeing the discouraged look on my face John came up to me and said, “don’t feel bad; that happens to everyone eventually.” Then he gave me some advice. He said; “Go back out there and this time try this: Leave your car in low gear, you wont need second on this course and it will keep you in your power zone with the 6-pack. When you get to the corner let off the gas and just tap the brakes to set the front tire’s contact patch and then turn in and mash the throttle. The back of the car will come around nicely as the 6-pack comes to life and the rear tires start smoking. Then; once you get it pointed in the right direction; straighten the front wheels and let off the gas momentarily to stop the wheel spin. Then mash it again.”

So with this advice I went out again.

WOW! Was this ever a good time! And everyone in the crowd was really digging seeing the silver bullet 6BBL smoking the tires and laying down some impressive times. Soon there was a line forming of spectators that wanted to go for rides in the car.

At the end of the day when the awards were being handed out I got second in the midsize class behind the blue # 383 Hotchkis car.

Not bad for my first time in a car that I had built.

Then John Hotchkis came over to me and complimented me on how well I drove and how well my car handled and asked; “So what suspension modifications do you have?”
He was noticeably disappointed when I told him, “we have Firm Feel torsion bars and front sway bar and that’s it.”

If you want to get a chance to win the car that got second place in that first year we will be out at MATS again this year with the car as the official charity car for the event. Tickets are just $20 bucks and there are only 5000 tickets available to win the car. Proceeds from the raffle will go to 3 southern California veterans charities. You can check it out at http://earlyrides.org/ or http://www.matslv.com/2007/charity.shtml

As a side note, this same car won the “street class” at the 2006 MATS event too.
road runner burnin.jpg
 
I'm thinking about the Swartz Performance chassis in the 70 Bee. Anyone have any opinions on this type of setup instead of the components ?
 
Do you have to be present to win????





The first year of the Hotchkis autocross in Vegas at the MATS they weren’t sure how many Mopars would try turning instead of just straight and fast so it was free to enter. I ran our 69 440+6 runner that is our raffle car this year.

Having never done this kind of thing before, I have to admit that I was a bit nervous.

John Hotchkis encouraged me and sent me out with his driver in the blue runner with the 383 on the door. I have to admit that I couldn’t even see where the course was in the sea of orange cones on that first time around but I knew I had to try it in the 6-pack runner.

Then with his driver in my car as passenger I did a slow lap to get the feel for it. Laps were free that year so I went again…and again…and again until finally it happened. After getting faster with each lap I finally overcame the grip of the front tires and mowed down some cones. DOH!

Embarrassed by this I completed my lap slowly and had pretty much decided that this wasn’t really for me. Seeing the discouraged look on my face John came up to me and said, “don’t feel bad; that happens to everyone eventually.” Then he gave me some advice. He said; “Go back out there and this time try this: Leave your car in low gear, you wont need second on this course and it will keep you in your power zone with the 6-pack. When you get to the corner let off the gas and just tap the brakes to set the front tire’s contact patch and then turn in and mash the throttle. The back of the car will come around nicely as the 6-pack comes to life and the rear tires start smoking. Then; once you get it pointed in the right direction; straighten the front wheels and let off the gas momentarily to stop the wheel spin. Then mash it again.”

So with this advice I went out again.

WOW! Was this ever a good time! And everyone in the crowd was really digging seeing the silver bullet 6BBL smoking the tires and laying down some impressive times. Soon there was a line forming of spectators that wanted to go for rides in the car.

At the end of the day when the awards were being handed out I got second in the midsize class behind the blue # 383 Hotchkis car.

Not bad for my first time in a car that I had built.

Then John Hotchkis came over to me and complimented me on how well I drove and how well my car handled and asked; “So what suspension modifications do you have?”
He was noticeably disappointed when I told him, “we have Firm Feel torsion bars and front sway bar and that’s it.”

If you want to get a chance to win the car that got second place in that first year we will be out at MATS again this year with the car as the official charity car for the event. Tickets are just $20 bucks and there are only 5000 tickets available to win the car. Proceeds from the raffle will go to 3 southern California veterans charities. You can check it out at http://earlyrides.org/ or http://www.matslv.com/2007/charity.shtml

As a side note, this same car won the “street class” at the 2006 MATS event too.
View attachment 177755
 
if you compare pre and post k-member gusset welding can you feel the difference in normal day to day street driving?

Lol
im not saying to randomly run 2-3 spools worth of welding wire beads all over your stock k member haphazardly.
The structural welds aren't going to add any significant weight to your vehicle that couldn't easily be compensated for by...oh, I don't know...running 1 alum wheel instead of a steel wheel, OR taking the spare outta the trunk, OR running an alum intake instead of the OEM cast unit, OR running headers instead of OEM ex manifolds, OR running 1 alum head instead of a stock head, OR...You get the picture I think.
If you've got the cash to drop on an aftermarket K set-up, then disregard my post and please ignore me,
if, however, it's not in your budget, then welding up your K will make a world of difference.
Do a quick search if you're interested, if not, no-harm-no-foul, I was just trying to provide you with another option that many are not aware of...

- - - Updated - - -

I've got most of my suspension done except for going up from .092" to 1.00" on the torsion bars and possibly adding PST adjustable struts when they finally release them.

Here's a photo I came across of a K-member that's been gusset welded so you can see what it looks like.
KframeWelding.jpg
Please do start a build thread! I'd love to get my car to the point of autocrossing it this past year snowballed quick for me into getting all my electrical and mechanical sorted out but next (once everything is paid for from this year) will be suspension upgrades.

Would love to see what you end up going with and forgive my ignorance but can someone explain more the "welding of the K Member" This is all greek to me so what actually gets welded and what does it accomplish?
 
raffle autocross Runner

Do you have to be present to win????

You do not need to be present to win. The winner of the 70 Runner from last year was in Cedar City Utah.
If not for the car you might as well donate for our veterans. Our president doesnt support our military; much less our veterans.
You can enter by mail by sending a check or money order to the address on the webpage.
Thanks to all of the FBBO members who have already supported our mission of "Helping the world, one muscle car at a time."
a interior small.jpgP1040075.jpgP1040101.jpg
 
I know I'll be putting some pro-car seats and brackets in the old GTX. I'm not really wanting to put a cage in it though for harnesses. I want to be able to haul the family around in it. Is anyone running the QA1 k-member and arms? It looks like the cost is a little lower. I like their shocks as well.

I purchased my pro car rally seats from summit. There is a summit part number that will give you both seats, adjusters and the brackets. It was the cheapest route and worked great. The only think I had to purchase (or dig out of my cans o bolts) where the bolts for the brackets to the floor. The stock seats in my Charger had studs so I could not reuse them on the brackets.

They where a major improvment over the stock warn outbuckets. The only issue I am having (haven't called procar yet) is on the driver side the support has fallen where I get in and out of the car every day. Other than that I really like the seats.
 
I have the 1100 Elite ProCar/Scat & mounts in my current 68 RR, my car isn't done yet but driving it with the new seats is night & day different way better than the original bench seat for holding you in place & leg room, I had to drill new inner holes for the brackets, my car was a bench seat car & didn't have them drilled already... Easy peasy, with some grade 8 hardware large thick fender washers {I will weld in later} on the underside & Nylock-nuts so they wont come loose... I went with the Elites instead of the 1000 Ralley style because they were a little thinner/lower better seating position for me & smaller bolsters on the sides that I figured would get worn out pretty quickly, climbing in & out... I'm very satisfied with the feel & fit...
 

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yep should help to keep your butt planted, so will a good harness too... it's only money... he he ha ha
 
What is the widest tire you can fit front and rear without cutting it up? I'm wanting to go 285/40/18 or 305/35/18 front and rear. I have 245/35/20 right now with plenty of room. My tires are fairly new just not very wide.
 
305 will fit with the right off eat wheel, for the rear not sure the front. But my bro on his 73 charger with ralley wheels had them off set to tuck 305 BFGs in the stock wheel well, but that was with a 15" rim not a 18.
 
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