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Worst day ever

I have a set of push rods that have the smaller diameter at one end. Mine are Cranes for adj rocker arms. But either type (std or adj) can have a smaller diameter at one end. Not sure what years they were used on.

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I have seen them come out of a stock engine like that. But remember, the larger end goes into the rocker arm. The smaller end in the lifter.
 
Gary I never seen these and if your right they were in backwards .... honestly im goin to ax the rods and lifters and I am contemplating a new cam just because im unsure of whats in there thanks for the info

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I am also struggling with the idea that the lower end(bad oil ring) has problems because I pulled springs and found seals in good shape and no valve play as if I had a bad guide so I am hoping that this remedies my smoke when hot ? we will see as I am figuring out my next move I really don't want to replace a good cam being the lifters were all wearing normally but I m weary of replacing lifters and pushrods without know what cams in there sorry hope I am not boring you guys but I appreciate all your inputs and help
 
on the driver side by the motor, by the mount you should see a date, like 6-1-68, for june 1 68, and so on. I know it sucks to pull a cam, my machinist always hammered it into my head, change as a set. They may look good, but each lifter wears differently on the cam. just my opinon.
 
Pat70rr said:
Gary I never seen these and if your right they were in backwards .... honestly im goin to ax the rods and lifters and I am contemplating a new cam just because im unsure of whats in there thanks for the info

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I am also struggling with the idea that the lower end(bad oil ring) has problems because I pulled springs and found seals in good shape and no valve play as if I had a bad guide so I am hoping that this remedies my smoke when hot ? we will see as I am figuring out my next move I really don't want to replace a good cam being the lifters were all wearing normally but I m weary of replacing lifters and pushrods without know what cams in there sorry hope I am not boring you guys but I appreciate all your inputs and help
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Considering you're already spending quite a few dollars, the price of a cam is not much more really. For that you get peace of mind that cam/lifters are all new and you get to choose the exact grind you want. I would never change just cam or lifters.

With regards to the smoking problem. I would focus on what you know is wrong with the valvetrain, and wait until you drive it to pass judgement on any other problems, considering you used the car plenty last season with I assume no perceived smoking issue.

PS - could you please supply details as to who built the engine (so nobody else here goes through this crap..)
 
Machine shop was in Cali owner dead ... Don't know if its in business 20 years ago .... Been throwing the cam idea around man it's been so long since I tore into a motor lol any cam suggestions ... It's going to be a weekender car that's it 383 non hp 65/66 year best I can see on block head casting constitant # s automatic with 3/91 rear that I'm sure of I went through both trans/ rear personally yrs ago thanks guys hopefully the worm will turn on this one ...
 
Asking for cam suggestions here is a dangerous practice as everybody has an opinion and favourite brand, myself included. Before you know it your head will be spinning.

I might as well start the ball rolling, and suggest Lunati Voodoo range. Great reputation, and the range goes from conservative to nasty with loads of small steps in between. If the engine is otherwise stock, then cam choice should be conservative, nothing worse than overcamming. Only available in 3 bolt variety, so if you have a 1 bolt timing gear, you need a new timing set too.
 
Voodoo I remember those cams yea I'm just goin around town weekend I will look into those thanks I guess I'm in all the way new front end , disc brake conversion and now valve train thinking of scrapping plans and yanking motor and then have ez access for front end/ brakes decisions desicions ....
 
If it was my engine, I would repair the immediate problem then see how it runs after that. I have lots of stock push rods, rocker arms. I can send you what you need if you pay the shipping. Put in 16 stock push rods. 1 replacement rocker arm. Assemble and see how that works. Don't see why you want to replace the cam right away. The reason the rocker arm broke, is because the push rods were in upside down. I am running mid 12s with a 509 cam and stock rocker gear like yours. No problems.

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I don't think there is a problem with your lifters. It's just the rest of the valve train being assembled incorrectly.

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You can replace the 1 incorrect lifter to try and get back on track. I have replaced used lifters with other used lifters on a near stock cam with no problems. The lower spring pressures are easy on a cam. Its when you go to higher spring pressures, thats when you run into problems.
 
Gary I had one different lifter( taller) which finally caused pushrod through arm if you can believe that I posted pics and the prods were in wrong too so yea I'm gonna tackle problem with new lifters pushrods and 1 rocker arm for now
 
You are having one of my days. Okay, not true, decades...I won't bore you with the details but family and friends say I am jinxed, and bad luck so I feel for you. Do nothing. That's right. Nothing. Everytime I've tried to make a decision during a situation like yours, it always turned out badly. Sit on the problem, sleep on it, but do nothing. If all goes well, and you tell people what is going on, friends and family will come to your aid. Sucks.
 
Pat70rr said:
Gary I had one different lifter( taller) which finally caused pushrod through arm if you can believe that I posted pics and the prods were in wrong too so yea I'm gonna tackle problem with new lifters pushrods and 1 rocker arm for now
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Sounds like you are on the right track now, Pat. Having the small end of the push rod in the rocker arm is surely going to stress the cup of the rocker arm, and eventually cause it to fail as yours did. The taller lifter at that push rod also contributed to the problem, I would think. I'm sure you will check the other bank of cylinders to make sure you have the correct push rods in that side too. Good luck, and let us know how well the repair works. I would run the motor for awhile after you fix it. I have found that these engines will run better after awhile, provided you keep the oil and filter clean.

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Run the motor at moderate speeds for 50 or 100 miles, with only light loads on it. The oiling system will clean out any particles of metal or dirt that have found their way into the motor. And as parts "mate up", the entire assembly should work better. Give it a little time. Good luck.
 
Gonna ask the dumb question.
Have you checked your oil? Or the bottom of the pan? I'm talking about any metal in the oil, from all those lovely wrong parts. If someone built that motor for you...there's no telling what else could be wrong.
Sorry, it's the engine builder in me. Any metalized oil will go throughout that motor. Bearings and rod inserts can't hold up to much metal, and can flat chew up a crank.

Good luck with it!
 
well a great easter replaced lifters, 2 rockers and pushrods added some zinc ran car @ 1800 for 1/2 hr had a lot of smoke for a long time thought I was snakebit was gonna drop the hood on her but after a small prayer the smoke cleared and I just saw the classic spitting from the tailpipes !!!! rechecked today alls well with the bird thanks to all for all your help advice and optimism going to recheck again tomorrow :hello2:
 
An engine prob that causes it to smoke, will build oil residue in the ex pipes. Then after the prob is fixed, then the oil residue will gradually burn out of the pipes for quite awhile. I think this is what has happened to yours. These motors are very rugged, and will last a long time with proper care. Always keep clean oil and filter in there. Dont forget to replace the air and fuel filters regularly. Good luck!
 
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