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Suspension Removal Order...

Ryguytoodry

Ryguytoodry

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I have everything off except for strut bar, lower control arm, and torsion bar. What's next? I have the bolt that holds the lca and torsion into the k-frame undone, and both ends of the strut bar undone. I just cant get either of the three off...
 
Got the clips out for the torsion bars? Get torsion bars out, the rest follows.
 
What do you mean clips? Where are they? I was looking for something like that holding them in, but I couldn't see any
 
In the crossmember, usually buried in grease...and 40 years of road goo...
 
once you get the clips out,and if the torsion bars are being stubborn,undo the lower control arm nut.put it back on a few threads and hit that bolt with a dead blow or plastic mallet.it will drive the torsion bar out the rear.tons easyer then using the tool normally required for the bars.
 
If you have a pickle fork ; drive it between the K frame and the torsion bar lip and it will come out with 2 hits of a hammer.
 
Clip location . . .

Ryguytoodry said:
What do you mean clips? Where are they? I was looking for something like that holding them in, but I couldn't see any
Click to expand...


Since my floor is cut away in this shot, you can see the ends of the torsion bars mounted under the car . . .

In this picture you'll see a "tube" shaped object near the bottom center of the screen, the clips are inside this tube shaped thing

sm-PassFloorremoved1.jpg

If you don't have a torsion bar removal tool, you can cut 2x4s like this to help you out . . .

sm-blockcuts.jpg

Here's the poor mans way of pulling them out without damaging the torsion bars . . .

sm-poormanremoval.jpg

If you go to my thread and look at post 52, it shows more of the details on removing my torsion bars from my car . . . hope that helps.
 
Photon440 said:
Just make sure the tension is off the bars before you pull them.
Click to expand...

Amen on that!
Normal clamping tool for the bars is made from aluminum. Also know the bars are left/right, sometimes marked, and you want to keep track of that. The bars are shot-peened. Don't do anything to mess up the surface. That's why the driving tool is made of softer material.
 
....they make a torsion pulling tool too, but whatever you do make sure you do not score or damage the bars in any way. They can be stubborn to get out, but they do move a little each time you tap the tool. Depending on how old the grease is, I warmed mine up with old hair dryer to get the old grease gooey and then they came out easier.
 
You guys are making too much work out of this ; a simple pickle fork driven will do the job. About 30 seconds start to finish.
 
Pick your own poison.

Pulling down mopar front suspension, the torsion bars should have come out first!
Any 60s mopar service manual will tell you how to bust them down, correctly. And get them back together.
 
Bit of a chore with the learning curve, but did figure out no torsion bar removal tool is needed when removing lower control arms too.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Remove A-arm bumper (Before raising car).
Raise car / Remove wheels.
Release torsion bar tension by removing adjustment bolts.
Remove torsion bar rear clip and clean out grease from rear socket.
Remove front strut rod nut. Then remove strut rod rear nut.
Remove lower ball joint nut, and tie-rod nut and break them both free with pickle fork.
Remove LCA pivot shaft nut.

No torsion bar removal tool needed when removing the LCA and torsion bar together as follows:
Tap pivot shaft back and pry LCA out of K-member, driving torsion bar out of rear socket.
Knock lower control arm free from torsion bar with large rubber mallet.



:happy11:
 
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