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which carb is best

junkpile

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I have a 440 with the old discontinued 484/284 cam. I don't want to swap cams but I have tried everything to get rid of this small bog at WOT. I am running EDDY 750, using .043 accelerator pump nozzles, silver springs (for low vaccume), every thing else internally was done by friend of mine. Car starts, drives in heavy traffic, on the highway, every situation great, just bogs if you stand on it after the car get about 20 out of the hole, if you lift it will take back off. I love the everything about how it runs but the bog.

Any fixes I can try or new carb to look into. This Fix needs to be affordable car budget is gone for this season.
 
This can be timing issue as well as to lean or to rich
what is your initial and total mech timing then how much vacuum advance do you have
 
One word for you "Holley" that's what I've always ran. I tried an Eddy once and that was the last time.
 
Definitely check the timing first. Eddys don't have enough pump volume in higher horsepower applications. A Holley has a lot more tunability. That will give you a bigger shot of fuel to eliminate the bog.
 
I agree with bm02tj, check your initial timing. I have the same cam in my 440, had a bog too. Finally got a dist that was easy to adjust the mechanical advance. Kept advancing the timing until the idle smoothed and would still start when warm. Ended up with 25 deg of initial timing. Then limited the mechanical advance to 36 deg at 3000RPM.. I don't run the vac advance. Bog is gone.
 
timing is 12 degree initial 36 total. Car Runs great drove it on a 1200 mile road trip the only thing hurt was my wallet for the gas. Someone suggested just changing the metering rods to allow more fuel in during the step up at WOT. I have to see what is in there first and determine what I can use.
 
Nothing is going to work right until you get that cam out of there, but if you must keep it, jack the timing to about 20 initial and make sure it's 36-38 total. Then start messing with the carb.
 
Incase this metering rod thing does not work, what cam do you suggest for a .030 over 440? I like the performance (bog excluded) of this cam but am always open to something better. Right now I run a vaccume can with a check valve to keep the power brakes, would be nice to run them back off the motor. Any suggestions, I am all ears.
 
here is what i have

Increase the jet size.
Seems it's starving for fuel.
In my opinion.

1411 eddy carb. jet .107, metering rod .065 x .037, accelerator pump nozzle .043, and silver step up springs.

440 .030 over 484/284 cam.

car runs great only issue stumble at WOT about 20 feet out of the hole. eddelbrock suggests .110 jet with a .073 x .042 rod. that does not seem right. I want the cruise mode to remain the same (I have no problems there) I just want to richen the fuel during WOT.

ok guys here is where I need direction to figure out how to fix this and keep the cruise mode the same.
 
Part of the problem is the weighted secondary air door that is being slammed open causing fuel to drop out of suspension and hit the floor letting the engine run stupid lean for a split second until it recovers.

Ethier "roll" into the secondary or swap it out for a Spring loaded secondary air door carb like the OE AVS, a TQ or the new Demon.
 
I'm an eddy guy, everyone I knew that bellyached about the eddy, usually ended up with other problems, not necessarily carb problems, timing, tune, cam, etc...like tires and oil and....everyone has a preference
 
The Edelbrock 750 is inherently lean. I bought one and put it on my Road Runner when they first came out and I fought with it for several months, calling the tech line a couple times per week. I bought their jet and metering rod kit and worked step by step with the Edelbrock rep on the phone. Finally, in a last ditch attempt to satisfy the customer, the rep sent me a pair of primary venturi boosters which had larger orifices in the emulsion tubes. Along with the boosters came all the gaskets I needed along with a detailed set of instructions. I popped 'em in, set the jetting back to "as delivered" and never looked back. That thing hauled *** from that day forward.
 
Had a few Eddy's over the years. Pretty basic carb, but overall not too bad. Didn't like their proneness to fuel boil/peculation issues and changing out accelerator pumps. Changed over to Quickfuel's recently. IMO, much more performance based, much more tunability, easier to pull apart for tuning, and better quality parts. My 2 cents.
 
I can only give you my experience with the carbs i have used. Few years ago when my 440 was first fired up, I had an Eddy 750. Tuning wasn't too difficult, the car ran ok. The car seemed responsive, etc... Fast forward to the present, I was talking with the guys at dodgecharger.com and I was made aware of the performance difference between Eddy and Holley carbs. Long story short, the majority of 'Performance Oriented" gentleman the seem to run Holleys (Proform/Quickfuel) carbs. My take on the discussion was that Eddys are easy to setup and tune, not too performance oriented, Holleys take more time and talent to setup properly, but the performance payoff is huge. So I decided to buy a Proform carb, which essentially is a Holley but a little better design... After having a little help from a good buddy setting up the carb, replaced my power valve and a couple other adustments. I can honestly say this was a great change in my Chargers performance! That carb literally "woke up" the car. It is too easy to smoke the tires, this thing pulls hard, slams your a$$ in the seat! I love it, I would NEVER go back to a traditional type carburetor.

IMG_0392.jpg
 
Problem is you are not generating good vacuum or velocity for a carb to work properly. Get that cam out of there and put in something more reasonable. I have the MoPar .455 / 272 in my 440 and its a fantastic street cam.
 
Problem is you are not generating good vacuum or velocity for a carb to work properly. Get that cam out of there and put in something more reasonable. I have the MoPar .455 / 272 in my 440 and its a fantastic street cam.

thanks for all the advise. I really do not want to break into the motor to change the cam, but it is on my option list for the fall.

right now I am going to try changing the jet and metering rod (per the edelbrock guy) to a .110 jet with a .073x.042 rod. I did the math and the cross sectional area that is open during the cruise mode is almost identical to what I have now (and since there is no issues cruising around that should be good) on the power mode the open area presently is .00079 and the new rod would be .00081 so that extra fuel might just make the difference with the large accelerator pump nozzles.

if this does not work I will have to look at a new Carb and have to learn a whole new way to set it up.

I will keep you posted on how it goes, have to pick up new metering rod tonight. wish me luck

- - - Updated - - -

thanks for all the advise. I really do not want to break into the motor to change the cam, but it is on my option list for the fall.

right now I am going to try changing the jet and metering rod (per the edelbrock guy) to a .110 jet with a .073x.042 rod. I did the math and the cross sectional area that is open during the cruise mode is almost identical to what I have now (and since there is no issues cruising around that should be good) on the power mode the open area presently is .00079 and the new rod would be .00081 so that extra fuel might just make the difference with the large accelerator pump nozzles.

if this does not work I will have to look at a new Carb and have to learn a whole new way to set it up.

I will keep you posted on how it goes, have to pick up new metering rod tonight. wish me luck

o.k. don't kill me for a typo, the present cross sectional open area is .0079 (power mode on .065x.037 rod and .107 jet) new would be .0081 (power mode on .073x.042 rod and .110 jet)
 
I can only give you my experience with the carbs i have used. Few years ago when my 440 was first fired up, I had an Eddy 750. Tuning wasn't too difficult, the car ran ok. The car seemed responsive, etc... Fast forward to the present, I was talking with the guys at dodgecharger.com and I was made aware of the performance difference between Eddy and Holley carbs. Long story short, the majority of 'Performance Oriented" gentleman the seem to run Holleys (Proform/Quickfuel) carbs. My take on the discussion was that Eddys are easy to setup and tune, not too performance oriented, Holleys take more time and talent to setup properly, but the performance payoff is huge. So I decided to buy a Proform carb, which essentially is a Holley but a little better design... After having a little help from a good buddy setting up the carb, replaced my power valve and a couple other adustments. I can honestly say this was a great change in my Chargers performance! That carb literally "woke up" the car. It is too easy to smoke the tires, this thing pulls hard, slams your a$$ in the seat! I love it, I would NEVER go back to a traditional type carburetor.

View attachment 188602

love the look of that carb. If you have a part number for it I can look into getting one if my last ditch effort fails. Where did you get that offset bracket for the coil? If I go to a similar setup I would love to keep the coil close to its present location and that bracket looks great. did you make it?
 
Had a few Eddy's over the years. Pretty basic carb, but overall not too bad. Didn't like their proneness to fuel boil/percolation issues and changing out accelerator pumps. Changed over to Quickfuel's recently. IMO, much more performance based, much more tunability, easier to pull apart for tuning, and better quality parts. My 2 cents.


Wonder if that is causing my issues, even though the engine isn't running hot, after it warms up and has been run a while, I have to do the flood mode to restart the car, otherwise it won't start till thoroughly cooled back down. I think I even heard it gurgling with the hood up when hot after i turned it off....hmmmm Wonder if a spacer would help?
 
Wonder if that is causing my issues, even though the engine isn't running hot, after it warms up and has been run a while, I have to do the flood mode to restart the car, otherwise it won't start till thoroughly cooled back down. I think I even heard it gurgling with the hood up when hot after i turned it off....hmmmm Wonder if a spacer would help?

1/2" composite spacer from summit solved my boiling fuel issue, never had a hot fuel problem since and its been 4 years since I installed it. Georgia heat and traffic, still no boiling of fuel, you need to get one, just look thru the Summitt catalog.
 
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