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Rear Axle Bearings: Stock vs. "Green"

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TX67RT

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I have the differential assembly out of my 67 R/T for some freshening, and want to replace the axle bearing/seal assemblies since they're original. What are the opinions regarding replacing with the factory tapered roller bearing setup vs. the newer style "green" bearings? It seems the factory set-up would be better because of the inherent lateral load carrying capability of the tapered roller bearings. I'll defer to the general consensus here, however I don't ever want to have to replace the axle bearings again, so I want to do it the right way.

Cheers!

JD
 
If you don't ever want to change them again follow your gut. I'm an industrial mechanic and can tell you there is no comparison between your standard ball bearing and a tapered bearing. The only reasons I can see to switch is out of laziness for not wanting to set up the tolerances or for quick gear changes which would make sense. Stick to the tapered.
 
747mopar said:
If you don't ever want to change them again follow your gut. I'm an industrial mechanic and can tell you there is no comparison between your standard ball bearing and a tapered bearing. The only reasons I can see to switch is out of laziness for not wanting to set up the tolerances or for quick gear changes which would make sense. Stick to the tapered.
Click to expand...

Thanks; that's about what I thought. I couldn't see how a ball bearing would ever live in a street set-up; too much side loading. I'll pony up for the replacement tapered bearing sets. Any idea on who might have them the cheapest?

Thanks!

JD
 
I'm not saying they don't hold up in street driven cars with side loading because they do, ford 9 inch rear ends run them and do quite well (tapered is just better). You should be able to buy them at most auto parts store but I'd try for a good brand like Timken or something other than Chinese.
 
747mopar said:
If you don't ever want to change them again follow your gut. I'm an industrial mechanic and can tell you there is no comparison between your standard ball bearing and a tapered bearing. The only reasons I can see to switch is out of laziness for not wanting to set up the tolerances or for quick gear changes which would make sense. Stick to the tapered.
Click to expand...
I agree. Just cause it is the new hot thing does not make it better than stock. Setting the axle end play on the right side axle is not hard at all. I do recommend you use the shop manual to do the procedure.......................MO
 
When I replaced my bearings, I also replaced the stock flanges from Dr. Diff., they're thicker (5/16) and heavy duty.
 
I went with the stock style when rebuilding the Dana in my Charger. Bearings and seals are available from Car Quest and Autozone.
 
Go with the stock bearing set up. The green bearings are junk, had 1 fail in a 9 1/4 in a truck and it ruined the axle and the axle tube on the diff. After that I only use the stock type bearings
 
I have run green bearings for years....put alot of miles on my driver R/T....easy install..easier for chunk change and never had a problem nor have the several friends who also run them. Every type bearing will have people telling stories about their experience or theories, good and bad. Run what you feel is right for you. I'll run the "greenies"
 
I installed the green bearing in my 8 3/4" In 2001. After 40k miles one failed. Luckily I was only doing 20 mph about to turn in my drive way. The other bearing was about to fry too. I installed the tapered bearing, that was 100k miles ago. They are still quiet today.
 
I have Fords and Mopars, and have lots of experience with the ball bearing setup. It's good. I believe most people's problems with the Greenie has more to do with manufacturer quality and installation procedure than with the design. I have 3 vintage 60s Fords and all had the original bearings in them and over 100k miles on each car.

Stick with the stock tapered bearing. It's not hard to set up once you figure it out and it is bulletproof.
 
I went with the stock type tapered roller. The roller distributes the loads better to the races reducing the chance of brinnelling due to bumps in the roads or excessive side loadings. It didn't cost me any more to do new tapered roller bearings either.
 
I have greens in the Polara and not a problem. Each to his own. Run whatcha want. A side note to the greens.....all factory axle housings have some bend and so the straighter housing the better for the greens.
 
my toyota race car runs the ball bearings, no problems in the past 8 years, easy to change the bearings as well. I have swapped out rears in less than 20 min because of them. For my roadrunner I went tapered because I'm not planning on changing rear ends every weekened
 
My 98 Ram had roller bearings, most cars built today use rollers.....got to be something to it???
 
Yes their is, they are cheaper to make. Go look at pictures of Diesel Powered Train engines, only will find tapered bearings. Even 100 year old trains, trucks and buses with severe milage. Green bearings are easy to install. No lash and no experience needed to adjust them. But wear and tear is nothing like tapered bearings.
 
5.7 hemi said:
My 98 Ram had roller bearings, most cars built today use rollers.....got to be something to it???
Click to expand...

Sure is, cheaper to make and cheaper to install. Like I said before, they work fine just not as durable.
 
Lets make sure we say this stuff right. Aren't the green bearings ball bearings? Tapered roller and roller bearings are both good, tapered better for side loads (hence the taper). Ball bearings put point loads on the races and can dent the race under a good bump or hit...called brinnelling. Heavy duty bearings are always roller/tapered roller.

It all comes down to how you use your car and if you want to do it again. I plan to run mine for years and can re-pack these with grease. The green bearings are sealed. Both will work and will be good for most people.
 
Use the tapered timken bearings and races.... never use a new bearing in an old race and use a higrade disc brake grease like moble1 full synthetic... green are for off road racing... one pot hole there done. In a 4x4 that sees a lot of mud ad off road I use a heavy-duty boat trailer axle grease made for salt water immersion... spend $$$$ on the lubricants and save you're self trouble down the road...
 
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