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Another Oil / Zinc Question

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PurpleX

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Read a lot of info here wrt oil. I have been running diesel 15W40 with ZDDPlus but seems like the majority feel diesel oil is not the way to go with the detergents in it. VR1 seems like a good choice but can I just switch from 15W40 to the 10W30 VR1? Is the 20W50 VR1 too thick? 1969 426, stock, solid lift cam. Thanks.
 
Lots of data on this forum And the Web.
Go to the "search box" in the Gold Banner to the right.
Type in best oil or oli or ZDDP
Remember:
Brad Penn and a few other companies make Muscle car compatable oil.

Also remember:
What is good for your "older engine" car is harmful to your newer car with the Catalytic Convertor.
It is the CAT that suffers......
 
zinc additive

I have been using a lucas oil product with good luck so far. I'm using synthetic oil in my 440 but wiped out 2 mopar purple shafts in 4 years before I found out about that zinc helps with a solid cam. Part Number 10063 available at some diesel shops with lucas products. Good luck!
 

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I have been using ZDDPlus, same sort of thing I guess. Just not sure what the best "base" oil to use is as it sounds like the diesel 15W40 isn't a viable option.
 
I use VR-1 20-50 my choice and i use a bottle lucas zinc additive..
 
it's my understanding that high amounts of detergents in the oils can have an adverse effect on the zddp. vr1 oils have a lower detergency to protect the zddp coating effect. I've been using rotella for years without any adverse effects; at least that I know of. I change my oil in the old cars every 1000 miles. I simply don't get real lost in brands and zddp/detergent issues. I make sure the oil has at least 1000 parts per million zddp. i'm not certain the adverse effects of too much detergent is a real minus if you keep a good oil/filter change schedule. I've never been able to wade thru opinions vs facts and form a definitive opinion about this. I guess if it ain't broke i'm not going to fix it. just make sure you have at least 1000 parts zddp per million, correct viscosity for your driving and climate and use whatever brand your comfortable with.
 
Use the race only valvoline oil or the brad Penn and others for flat tappet cams. Or convert to roller cams. I don't like the additives because you have to mix it first like in a paint shaker.... and has to be measured etc.... there is no cheap way around it the valve spring pressure determines the amount of Zink if you want to get scientifically correct. Off road only products is the way to go.
 
Still learning all this 'new and improved' crap, on oils, zddp, and such. (I'm a old guy)

Been wanting to ask, but I'll say now. If any of the guys can correct me, or straighten my act up...go for it.

Been doing research, for what it's worth. At the Valvoline site, says on the zddp 'rules by epa', doesn't apply to staight weight oil. You know, such as VR1 30w, 40w and 50w. Those rules only fit multi weight oil. Is that right, or wrong?

Also read STP has zddp in it. Anybody use it?
 
The "for off road use only" oil.. for "flat tappet cams"
is the one you want. Regardless of brand... The legal stuff is questionable and can be misleading...
 
Legal oil. Wow!

Methinks we're all going to hell!

For flat tappet cams, sleepar, isn't it zddp, and phosphates, that is needed to keep them alive??
 
Yes. The valvoline VR1 oil I like and buy at jegs by the case for $80 is the " for off road use only" VR 1 as for the weight depends on how hot or how cold go by the book I live in Florida so I run the 20/50 weight. No additives no mixing etc. The brad Penn is about the same in there off road oil and the others brands off road only oils.. nothing street legal or over the counter is good anymore.... same as the gas... some places sell the vintage leadded regular gas in 5gallons or in 55 gallon drums and at a few places at a pump you can get non ethanol 108 octaine but it needs lead additives or a 1/2 of quart of cheapo motor oil per tank load to keep the valves seats happily. Don't put pump gas in that combo you have for the love of mopar... it's the off road oil and the off road fuel only.... the Gas is $12- 14 a gallon.... but it's cheaper than sunk valves and rebuilding carbs etc etc.... baby that old girl with some $$$$$ fluids...
 
sleepar said:
Don't put pump gas in that combo you have for the love of mopar... it's the off road oil and the off road fuel only.... the Gas is $12- 14 a gallon.... but it's cheaper than sunk valves and rebuilding carbs etc etc.... baby that old girl with some $$$$$ fluids...
Click to expand...

LOL! And I'm a old retired guy, with SS comin' once a month. Yur killin' me.

But, not to worry. That 'old girl' is gonna get a pat on the a$$ every chance I get, and the best fluids I can find.
 
I'm a disabled vet on the same program and it sucks but the good gas keeps and I have to go months in storage the pump junk is just not worth the mess. $12 a gallon sounds crazy... I have dropped my last gas tank... in Florida it's so humid the ethanol attracts so much water and I'd rather not rebuild the fuel system every 3-4 months.... plus my 318 can run on that crap better than your set up was for leaded premium minimum I don't always run the good stuff but if it's being put up it gets it or if I don't drive through a few tanks... keeps the oil cleaner also... I'm not trying to sell it just share my night and day experience with the vintage gas.
 
First...hats off to ya, guy! You cannot be thanked enough. You are fully appreciated, for what it's worth.

Completely understand, sleepar, hear what your saying.
 
RT K_line said:
I have been using a lucas oil product with good luck so far. I'm using synthetic oil in my 440 but wiped out 2 mopar purple shafts in 4 years before I found out about that zinc helps with a solid cam. Part Number 10063 available at some diesel shops with lucas products. Good luck!
Click to expand...

I use the same (Lucas) then you can just put your oil of choice in and forget it.
 
Amsoil 10-40 Signature. True synthetic. High Zinc. No additives required. 440 Motor. Recommended by builder after break in. Trouble free.
 
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