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Water Pump Plug Help Please

HawkRod

HawkRod

Formerly hsorman
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Hi Guys,

So my FAST system needs an additional water coolant temperature sensor installed. The plug in the water pump assembly is the spot to mount it. The problem I am having is getting it out. I am sure it has rusted itself in place after 44 years, so I broke a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter trying to use an air gun to get it off... ...it didn't even budge.

So before I go either heating, soaking, drilling, bashing, whatever, I'd appreciate any suggestions from people who have tackled this issue before.

As always, thanks for the help!

Hawk

IMG_2617.jpg
 
First off, get rid of as much paint as you can from around the threads and then soak that puppy with penetrating fluid. Probably a good idea to continue to soak it for a couple of days.
 
Could buy a new water pump housing..... Or like you mentioned heat it up around the out side of the plug and hope you get lucky... I would do it off the car in a big vise with a breaker bar and an I'm pact socket I will never move with out heat.... oxy acetylene and cherry red around the out side then quickly put the socket on it and put the socket on dry ice if you can.
 
Yep, been there, done that. Those are a bee......itch. Bite the bullet and get a new aluminum housing. Saves a lot of frustration, swearing, wrench throwing, and other broken parts in the process. You'll be time and money ahead in the long run. :BangHead:
 
Best to take it off the motor and as said heat it and take it out in a vise. But for the cost I would upgrade to an aluminume one and a better water pump at this time. Not to say your set up is in need but looks like it hase some adge on it? I use a FlowCooler pump and it kept my big thumper nice and cool. Thats a Plus for you EFI set up to boot !!
 
Put the sending unit in a bung in the radiator or make up a T fitting out of brass and put it inline with the heater hose.... many ways to skin that cat...
 
Smartest thing to do is to just drill it out and retap the hole. I have had 100% success doing things that way. Sometimes the original plug will even break loose and come out during the drilling part.
 
Badvert65 said:
Smartest thing to do is to just drill it out and retap the hole. I have had 100% success doing things that way. Sometimes the original plug will even break loose and come out during the drilling part.
Click to expand...
Might come out if you're using a left hand drill bit.....
 
I know this has been mentioned in other posts. My machine shop showed me a trick I just couldn't believe. He showed me a plug that was rusted in a block. He heated up the plug with a torch than when it was really hot he put block of bees wax over the plug then it screwed right out. Apparently the wax goes goes down in between the threads. I couldn't believe it. It is amazing.

http://dsportmag.com/browse/tech/stuck-on-you

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=540388
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys. As Cranky said, I have already started soaking it in penetrating fluid (after scraping the paint away).

I wish I had been smarter and discovered this BEFORE I painted the engine. Yes, the water pump setup is old, maybe even original, but I was working great when I started the restoration so I figured why mess with it. I guess I have to mess with it now...

I will start with using penetrating oil and hitting the fitting (not too hard) with a hammer to try and loosen things up. I will try that for a few days and then move to the heat and wax method. If that all fails then it comes off and I will try to drill and tap it - or maybe be peeved enough just to buy the aluminum unit...

Thanks for the help!

Hawk
 
Let us know if that WAX method works for you. I've tried all the other methods mentioned with no success, but never heard of the wax until now. Very interesting and would love to know if it really works.

Good luck
 
I've used the wax method before too and it didn't seem to help. With 30 years of machine shop experience, I've tried all kinds of ways and there were many times where I just drilled and tapped the dang stuff. If you want to get it done without spending too much time, just drill it out but you have to be careful when drilling so you don't mess up the original threads too much or you'll have to go to the next size or helicoil it but I don't think there is a helicoil for pipe threads.

Heating up a frozen nut is easy since the nut will expand and will come off pretty easily but heating up the water pump housing will make the hole actually get tighter before it gets larger and also, the heat from the housing will transfer into the plug making it expand too so there's a short time window that the plug will be at it's sweet spot so to speak. I've found it works the best to have pressure on a wrench while heating the part that has the stuck bolt or plug. Sometimes heating the parts up and letting them cool a couple of times can also help.....
 
Cranky said:
I've used the wax method before too and it didn't seem to help. With 30 years of machine shop experience, I've tried all kinds of ways and there were many times where I just drilled and tapped the dang stuff. If you want to get it done without spending too much time, just drill it out but you have to be careful when drilling so you don't mess up the original threads too much or you'll have to go to the next size or helicoil it but I don't think there is a helicoil for pipe threads.

Heating up a frozen nut is easy since the nut will expand and will come off pretty easily but heating up the water pump housing will make the hole actually get tighter before it gets larger and also, the heat from the housing will transfer into the plug making it expand too so there's a short time window that the plug will be at it's sweet spot so to speak. I've found it works the best to have pressure on a wrench while heating the part that has the stuck bolt or plug. Sometimes heating the parts up and letting them cool a couple of times can also help.....
Click to expand...

You are right on the mark, Cranky :iamwithstupid:

What you described has also been my experiences with this type of problem.
 
Thanks guys. So far it is in a nice bath of penetrating fluid. I'll do that for a couple of days and see where that goes. Stay tuned...
 
The hammer bit can help, to loosen up the threads, and break loose any rust build-up. Just don't get too wild with it. Hate for you to crack your housing.
Have you tried a breaker bar on it, with the right drive size? Even with a extention, might help. Good luck with it!
 
A combo of heat and hammer should break it loose, but it has been there a long time. Don't forget to try turning it in also to break it loose, can you get penetrating oil to the bottom of the plug from the thermostat opening?
 
do not use an impact to get it out.....use a breaker bar.....you can even heat the plug and use bar to turn it loose
 
Thanks to all for the continued ideas. 440+6 has a great idea about getting the penetrating oil in from the underside. I really should take it off and start soaking it from the top and bottom, alternating back and forth.

Crap, I was hoping not to have to tear more apart (I have enough to put back together!), but that will most likely be the fastest way to get this done...
 
Cranky said:
I've used the wax method before too and it didn't seem to help. With 30 years of machine shop experience, I've tried all kinds of ways and there were many times where I just drilled and tapped the dang stuff. If you want to get it done without spending too much time, just drill it out but you have to be careful when drilling so you don't mess up the original threads too much or you'll have to go to the next size or helicoil it but I don't think there is a helicoil for pipe threads.

Heating up a frozen nut is easy since the nut will expand and will come off pretty easily but heating up the water pump housing will make the hole actually get tighter before it gets larger and also, the heat from the housing will transfer into the plug making it expand too so there's a short time window that the plug will be at it's sweet spot so to speak. I've found it works the best to have pressure on a wrench while heating the part that has the stuck bolt or plug. Sometimes heating the parts up and letting them cool a couple of times can also help.....
Click to expand...

That surprises you didn't have any luck with bees wax. I found a chevy 427 4 bolt main block that had been laying outside bare for 30 years. I took it to my machine guy to have it checked for cracks. The block had a couple of allen head plugs that was badly rusted. I asked him how he was going to get the plugs out. He said watch this he heated up the plugs then took a block of bees wax and held it on top of the plugs. He handed me a ratchet with a allen head bit and I couldn't believe how easy it came out. He said before a old timer showed him the trick he used to drill and tap rusted bolts like this. If I hadn't seen it I would never have believed it.
 
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