rear main seal leak stop
- Thread starter pjm8047
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DODGER
Well-Known Member
In my oppinion, if your rear Main Seal is leaking, you've got to change it.
50$ for the Seal some RTV, a little ellbow Grease and some Luck.
WAYNES WORLD
Well-Known Member
There really is no fix for the seal, it's replacement or live with the leak.For a price you should seek someone local to you that deals with these cars.
Wayne
Wayne
a68postcar
Well-Known Member
P.c.v.
Dako
Well-Known Member
I have yet to own a V-8 Mopar that the rear main did NOT leak, except for a brand new, off the lot vehicle...And even that one leaked after a couple years. None of them leaked right off the bat, but each started within the 1st year. They all have been more of a static thing...all seem to seal up once their motors warm.
This has included: machine shop assembled motors (x2); shop replaced seals(x3); myself replacing seals(x1). I dunno, maybe I have just had bad luck? As long as it is not creating a mess underneath, a drop hanging lets me know they still have oil in them.
This has included: machine shop assembled motors (x2); shop replaced seals(x3); myself replacing seals(x1). I dunno, maybe I have just had bad luck? As long as it is not creating a mess underneath, a drop hanging lets me know they still have oil in them.
Durandal25
Well-Known Member
.....been there, and in truth it depends on the seal issue you are having.....old seals will take a stop leak and may slow down a bit or totally for a while, but will return. A newly installed seal, like mine, required a oil pan drop and review of the lip-ring seal....which was a bit out of round. It can be a real pain in *** sir.
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
Get the good felpro seals red I think, mine have lasted 3 years now no issues.
pjm8047
Well-Known Member
A machine shop quoted me $800 .Im gonna try this stuff and hope it works until I get some cash to do it.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bluedevil-rear-main-sealer-00234/10148609-P?searchTerm=rear+main+sealer
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bluedevil-rear-main-sealer-00234/10148609-P?searchTerm=rear+main+sealer
Wow - that's a little steep I would say. To bad you don't live closer, we could have it replaced in a couple of hours.
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Anyone ever try a couple of ounces of brake fluid?
pjm8047
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he quoted me for 10 hours he said he'd need to take the crank out.How many hours does it usually take?
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brake fluid?
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The product you listed makes the seal expand....and brake fluid does too. I've only done it in cars I didn't car about tho. Worked for me.
Find a local Mopar nut. Forget a shop unless it is a specialty place. Mine does not leak because I had the right person install it. Lots of heartache threads on this.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
To do the seal right, you have to do the upper and lower halves. These can be done without pulling the crank in the old timer's way. You drop the pan and remove the lower rear main cap, and loosen the others to drop the crank a bit. Then use a brass rod to push the old upper seal out; use the brass because you may have to tap it through with a small hammer. Then use a brass wire threaded through the upper half to help pull the new upper seal through. Cut as much of the brass wire off as you can. If it touches the crank, it won't do much since it is softer brass.
To get the upper seal to seat, you might have to hold one end up in place and tap the other end with a brass drift to get it to seat up well.
To get the upper seal to seat, you might have to hold one end up in place and tap the other end with a brass drift to get it to seat up well.
MoparMitch
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Yup, done that before, but usually with a used car I was flipping. Also works for power steering and transmissions. Never found out how any of them fared.
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I have a 95 Dakota that I added a couple of ounces to the transmission over 10 years ago. It was acting pretty bad especially in the winter and it improved. I still have it and it has not got any worse. It was a freebie (cost me my dad tho) and was driven pretty bad by my dad and I didn't feel like putting any money in it but the thing just keeps on going lol. Just don't leave it in there very long.
Funship32
Well-Known Member
I suspect that is why Indy and Milodon came out with a billet rear main seal cap for the mope big blocks. The fit of the cap is waaaay superior to the OEM jobber.
pjm8047
Well-Known Member
I wish I knew one.You think a normal repair could do it?
I would say a couple of hours if you have done it before and everything comes apart easily. Drop the steering link, oil pan, and rear main retainer. I have never had to drop the crank. If you use the Felpro seals, it is recommended to stagger the ends so they are not lined up with the block. I had one that I replaced 3 times and still couldn't get it to totally quit leaking. I bought a billet main cap kit and that took care of the problem once and for all.
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