I have a non-mopar electrical question... can I put it here?

Anybody with Hyundai experience here? I will try to explain this as best I can.
I used to think my Veracruz (08) had a dragging starter. On occasions after starting I get this loud horrific screeching noise. This has been getting worse progressively. Sometimes it would stop in short order, other times if I would back the key off just a hair it would stop. As time went on I would get the same noise at times when shifting from D to N to R to P.... but ONLY in the N & P positions.


This happened last evening when I parked at home after work. So to stop the noise (and grinding my starter??) I shut it off in D. Granted I can not shift to P with the switch in the off position. So I put the key in the "on" position. Not "start" but just "on"........... but she started anyway. Tried it again to make sure of what I was doing and got the same result.


Do I need a new ignition switch?


And if so. does the ecm/pcm need to be replaced along with it. I've had Toyotas in the past where you couldn't swap one without the other.


Thanks
BIGS

sounds like an ign switch prob,i would try that first.only reprograming you might need would be if the vehicle has a factory security system.check with the dealer to see for sure,they should be able to tell you over the phone if you provide you vin #.the sound is prob the starter trying to stay enguaged after the vehicle starts.hope you dont end up needing a new starter after all is said and done.

I tried a little experiment over the weekend. We were down in Joliet for chase weekend. (Keep an eye on Kyle Larson he will be a well known in short order) Any way I took off the 9lbs of shop keys for the weekend, this helped a little.

I looked on rock auto (against my religion in most cases) there is an ignition switch available. Looks in the picture like you would use you original key & tumbler assy. The keys to this thing don't looked chipped, but I've been fooled before. I may just try it cause it makes sense to me I would think if I can use my original key and tumbled noo reprogramming would be required. (??????? :dunno: ) Lord only knows what my starter drive and flywheel are looking like. ullinghair: For those who don't know this truck (most don't, me included) its a Hyundai version of a Highlander. That's the closest match up I can think of. I took the truck at Andy's build party.(My buddy that dies of cancer) Nice comfortable driver with room for tools/parts/dogs with good power and decent on gas. On the other hand I bought it at the auction.... you get what you get. :

You need the electrical switch and not the "cylinder" set. You can change the switch without changing the key and cylinder. Here is the bad part. IF its realted to a heavy keychain or a gorilla driver, the cylinder lockets could be worn (they are only diecast) and anew switch may not help.

When you replace the swtich, take a good look at the slop in the mechanical parts. If its too sloppy, its not worth putting it back in. (innuendo intended?)

Anyway, Good luck with the repair.
Randy

RGAZ said:

You need the electrical switch and not the "cylinder" set. You can change the switch without changing the key and cylinder. Here is the bad part. IF its realted to a heavy keychain or a gorilla driver, the cylinder lockets could be worn (they are only diecast) and anew switch may not help.

When you replace the swtich, take a good look at the slop in the mechanical parts. If its too sloppy, its not worth putting it back in. (innuendo intended?)

Anyway, Good luck with the repair.
Randy

Click to expand...

I ordered the switch yesterday. Yes I've always had a heavy set of shop keys, which as of late I've been carrying separate. This issue started shortly after I started driving it. How worn it was when I got it is hard to say. I will be doing the "slop" inspection soon.....

Switch came in today. Its even got the Hyundai emblem on it.... woooo hooooo. This weekend will tell the tale