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Power Steering Adjustment Question On A 70 RR

soundhd

soundhd

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Have a 70 RR that I installed a rebuilt power steering box/gear and also replaced the power steering pump, hoses, etc.... Steering is 100 times better then it was when I first got the car. Seems to have to much power assist when turning left vs turning right (I read somewhere there is a way to adjust the power assist on the power steering gear...just cannot find it in the shop manual)
and I don't know...seems like I am always "adjusting" the steering wheel a little bit either way when driving down the road...more notice able on the freeway over 55 mph. Asked a couple of my Mopar buddies about that and I the response was welcome to the world of Mopar....like that's the way it is? I have a couple GM classics (72 Olds 442 and a 79 Chevy "shorty" van both with factory power steering and both of those steer and handle great).
I did have the alignment done after I replaced the steering box......
I just can't believe that Mopar steering systems are that bad...compared to the GM systems anyway..............
any advice/help would be appreciated
 
Put a Firm Feel Stage 2 box on and enjoy a triple digit straight line. The best. No corrections.
 
I don't think what you are experiencing is normal. I have never had that problem, but think I read about an adjustment of the valve body to correct the problem. If I remember correctly, it is covered in the service manual.
 
The valve body where the hoses connect can be adjusted. Slightly loosen the 2 bolts that fasten it to the box and then slightly move it forward or back til you find the sweet spot.
Here is a pic of the valve

- - - Updated - - -

When you find the sweet spot you'll find the Mopars steering easier than GM. I've owned around 30 GM's.
 

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I've heard those called flow control valves, valve body and spool valves. Anyways, I like to check it out with the front wheels off the ground. If they stay straight with the engine running, it's probably set right. Did the alignment tech give you the settings that he used to align it with? I haven't had much luck with any alignment shops in my area so I learned how to do it myself. Also, the factory alignment specs are not to my liking and always had to fight with the alignment shops to give me what I wanted....which is more camber and caster (with radial tires) and over the years I've experimented with plenty of both. If your caster is set close to 0, then that might be part of the reason why you are having to always correct all the time while going down the road. Also, most Mopar steering systems have had the 'one finger syndrome' which I kinda like anyways but don't like it too much with factory settings. if it were mine, I would try and find a shop that 'speaks' Mopar and talk with them about what you are feeling and ask about dialing in a bit more caster (caster helps with high speed wander) and see what they say and then ask about adjusting the valve. BTW, ask the tech if they know about the alignment adjusters and how they work. They DO NOT go full circle and if they grunt on them to make them go full circle in trying to align it, then you will have damage to the cam slot ears (don't know the correct name for them) but the cam adjusters never are supposed to be turned more than 180 degrees if that much or damage will result in the seats they are in. Also, some reading here should help.... http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/front-end-alignment.html
 
Also when you start your car if the steering wheel turns a little bit by itself then it is out of adjustment.
 
I've used Firm Feel and Flaming River but not everyone can afford 450.00 for a steering box. He already stated that he had a rebuilt box.
 
I've heard that if the fitting plate where the hoses go into the gearbox is not lined up right it can cause an imbalance in fluid pressure to each side of the unit and cause it to favor one side over the other.. Not sure if that's your problem or not but thought I'd throw it out there.
 
Jake it up put jack stand under the lower control arms as far out towards the wheels as possible and set it down with front tires of the ground. Start engine if steering doesn't move the control valve is set correctly and you have a caster camber toe problem. If steering moves on its own loosen control valve 2 bolts just enough so valve will move when struck from ends with soft blow hammer until steering stops drifting on it own tighten bolts and you are done. Simple process. Camber left +1/2° right +1/4° Caster power steering +1/4° to +1-1/4° Ride height 1/8" side to side difference max. Toe in 1/8". If you do a lot of 4 lane highway driving set camber same on both sides. This should make your 70 RR go straight down the road.
 
Purchased the RR in the fall of 2012.....steering was very bad so that winter replaced the steering gearbox with a rebuilt one from a "local" steering gear shop and also replaced the power steering pump. Then took it to a local shop that a lot of the local classic car owner's have thier alignment's done there....No did not ask for any alignment specs (not really up that) but do remember them saying that the alignment was really off and they had a "hard time" getting it aligned. So the steering is a lot better then it was but have not really been driving the car much until I had the money to convert over to front disc brakes just this past month (was not comfortable driving it around a whole lot with the front drum brakes) so now I have had it out a lot more and have started seeing or "feeling" what "else" needs to be addressed with the steering. I did do the steering check with the car up off the ground after I changed the steering box and as I remember when running and "gunned" the motor the front wheels did not turn either left or right so maybe I will try it again and if it still does not turn to the left or right maybe I will try a couple adjustmentswith the valve body mentioned above to see if I can stop the over steer problem I have when turning left and if I can correct that maybe that will solve my "drifting" (not sure what else to call it) problem.

thanks




Cranky said:
I've heard those called flow control valves, valve body and spool valves. Anyways, I like to check it out with the front wheels off the ground. If they stay straight with the engine running, it's probably set right. Did the alignment tech give you the settings that he used to align it with? I haven't had much luck with any alignment shops in my area so I learned how to do it myself. Also, the factory alignment specs are not to my liking and always had to fight with the alignment shops to give me what I wanted....which is more camber and caster (with radial tires) and over the years I've experimented with plenty of both. If your caster is set close to 0, then that might be part of the reason why you are having to always correct all the time while going down the road. Also, most Mopar steering systems have had the 'one finger syndrome' which I kinda like anyways but don't like it too much with factory settings. if it were mine, I would try and find a shop that 'speaks' Mopar and talk with them about what you are feeling and ask about dialing in a bit more caster (caster helps with high speed wander) and see what they say and then ask about adjusting the valve. BTW, ask the tech if they know about the alignment adjusters and how they work. They DO NOT go full circle and if they grunt on them to make them go full circle in trying to align it, then you will have damage to the cam slot ears (don't know the correct name for them) but the cam adjusters never are supposed to be turned more than 180 degrees if that much or damage will result in the seats they are in. Also, some reading here should help.... http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/front-end-alignment.html
Click to expand...
 
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