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69 B body 1/2" SS fuel lines

69 GTX

69 GTX

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Does anyone make prebent 1/2" SS fuel lines? I've been looking without much luck. I guess I may have to buy a roll of it and make them.
 
Not that I have seen.... I made mine from a roll of aluminum with good results.
 
1/2"...holy smokes. Won't go in to the never ending "gargantuan fuel line" debate, but 3/8" line will easily support you into into 9-10 second car status and beyond. 10 million threads on the net about that. Anyways, no idea where you might find 1/2" pre-bent. Classic Industries sell's them pre-bent in 3/8", but don't see 1/2" pre-bent anywhere. Good luck on your search.

If you're going to build the S/S route yourself, buy yourself a real good flaring tool. S/S can be a real pain to flare and keep from leaking, even with the small bore's.
 
I hear ya on the flaring Will. Did you use 3/8 on yours? I was thinking of running E85 which requires 20-30% more. Wasn't sure if 3/8 would be big enough. I tend to be the king of over kill :beavisnbutthead:
 
ah.... and now I understand why you want 1/2" dia SS.... E85 will wreak havoc with aluminum line and you are going to have to move a LOT of fuel.

Good luck with the project.


I'm interested in which fuel pump you chose for this application.
 
If you have a hydraulics shop near you, see if they stock strait lengths of ss tubing. I worked for one years ago and we always had 20' sticks of high quality stainless in common sizes.

Good luck, Mark
 
Worked with SS tube for a number of years in a refinery and never saw it come in by the roll....always straight lengths and yes, you'll need a good bender and flaring tool for 1/2" along with good muscles :D Keep in mind that SS isn't all that hard as in hardness goes but it's very tough stuff. After all, if it was a hard metal, it wouldn't bend without breaking and it machines fairly easily and polishes out to an excellent shine.
 
Rebel not sure if that would be track legal, if I'm not mistaken all fuel lines must be metal.
 
Ron Ward said:
ah.... and now I understand why you want 1/2" dia SS.... E85 will wreak havoc with aluminum line and you are going to have to move a LOT of fuel.

Good luck with the project.


I'm interested in which fuel pump you chose for this application.
Click to expand...


Yeah same here.... Makes complete sense now. Sorry Tim, forgot about the E85 route you're going. Yes, I ran 3/8" line. W.O.T., fuel pressure gauge doesn't flinch. I bought the Rigid Ratcheting Flaring Tool a few years ago. I remember it was pricey, but did a heck of a lot better than the no name kit I had before. Ran a friends hidden transmission, fuel and brake S/S lines on his '40 Ford.

I tend to be the king of over kill
Click to expand...

As far as being the King of Overkill....sure is better than being the King of Underkill..lol
 
copy and paste from Don at FBO, tech and tuning book.

A 13 second Car Requires a fuel delivery system that is capable of filling a 1
gallon jug in 35 seconds or you will run out of fuel and it'll fall on it's face.
12 second car-30 seconds
11 second car-25 seconds
10 second car-20 seconds and so on....
This test must be conducted at pressure, so remove the fuel lines from the carb
bowls push them into a fuel jug and turn on your pump.
Electric Fuel pumps should always be run through a relay with a remote on/off
switch and wired with “Cross Link” wire. The “ground” is critical for maximum
pump life and efficiency, poor grounds or inadequate wire size can cause low
voltage which will reduce fuel flow and eventually could cause pump damage.
Cross link wire will not support flame, it will burn if an outside flame source is
present but if you should get a short in your pump wiring the wire will melt but not
ignite to flame. Of course, if wired correctly with fuse and relay this should not be
a concern. We have several colors of Cross-Link in 10-12 and 14 Ga. Sold by
the foot or roll.
Incorrect hose sizes on the inlet and or outlet will drastically shorten any pumps
life whether it’s electric or mechanical. Follow manufacturers plumbing
instructions for maximum efficiency and pump life.
Fuel pressure is only an indication of resistance in the system and has very little
to do with actual fuel volume. You may have 7# on your gauge but the float
bowls could be empty don’t mistake your fuel pressure gauge for a float bowl
level gauge.
The regulator must be correct for the pump, using a $30.00 Made in China
regulator on a 400 GPH pump will cause a massive restriction and cause the
engine to lean out and the pump to fail prematurely.
3/8 line 400 HP Max
½ line 600-700 HP Max
5/8 line 900-1000 HP Max
 
benno440 said:
copy and paste from Don at FBO, tech and tuning book.

A 13 second Car Requires a fuel delivery system that is capable of filling a 1
gallon jug in 35 seconds or you will run out of fuel and it'll fall on it's face.
12 second car-30 seconds
11 second car-25 seconds
10 second car-20 seconds and so on....
This test must be conducted at pressure, so remove the fuel lines from the carb
bowls push them into a fuel jug and turn on your pump.
Electric Fuel pumps should always be run through a relay with a remote on/off
switch and wired with “Cross Link” wire. The “ground” is critical for maximum
pump life and efficiency, poor grounds or inadequate wire size can cause low
voltage which will reduce fuel flow and eventually could cause pump damage.
Cross link wire will not support flame, it will burn if an outside flame source is
present but if you should get a short in your pump wiring the wire will melt but not
ignite to flame. Of course, if wired correctly with fuse and relay this should not be
a concern. We have several colors of Cross-Link in 10-12 and 14 Ga. Sold by
the foot or roll.
Incorrect hose sizes on the inlet and or outlet will drastically shorten any pumps
life whether it’s electric or mechanical. Follow manufacturers plumbing
instructions for maximum efficiency and pump life.
Fuel pressure is only an indication of resistance in the system and has very little
to do with actual fuel volume. You may have 7# on your gauge but the float
bowls could be empty don’t mistake your fuel pressure gauge for a float bowl
level gauge.
The regulator must be correct for the pump, using a $30.00 Made in China
regulator on a 400 GPH pump will cause a massive restriction and cause the
engine to lean out and the pump to fail prematurely.
3/8 line 400 HP Max
½ line 600-700 HP Max
5/8 line 900-1000 HP Max
Click to expand...



I cant say about all that but I run in the 10's with a 3/8 line and I still use a stock 3/8 sending unit with the stock fuel tank. It even ran 10.70's with just the Holley red pump. I have since upgraded to the black Holley pump but it ran the same 10.70's with it. I have had no fuel starve problems at all and I guess I make about 600 flywheel hp to go 10.70's at about 125 at 3700 lbs. I actually know some guys running 10's with the 5/16 line which I would not do. But a decent fuel system with 3/8 line should support easy 10's on gas and one carb. If E85 uses more % then gas I agree I would go right to 1/2" as you are. Ron
 
Not true. We run E85 with an aluminum fuel cell and line, no issue. I've also run 1/2" aluminum line (properly mounted) on my street car for over 20 years. same line is still on the car today.
Doug
 
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