Get in touch with Cudachick1968.
IMHFO It really depends on who applies it & how well the prep has been done....
Leanna/cudachick1968 owner operator of @
http://www.PhoenixSpecialtyCoatings.com
a member here, she's done allot of work on other members stuff/parts,
she is great at powder-coating, attention to detail, I'd suggest that you contact her,
if you decide to go that route, she's the go to gal, fosho...
Bob and Budnicks, thank you both for the recommendations. << curtsey >>
It's great to see even from those who haven't been customers yet. I do take a lot of pride in my work and, if I wouldn't put it on my own car then I'd NEVER ask you to put it on yours.
All my cars have powder/ceramic coated stuff. It looks great, and holds up to stuff painted couldn't. It's been 9 and 7 years on the 2 cars I currently use, and am coating everything on my current build. Other than the body...it'll get coated or plated.
Same here mm, and that's what got me into this in 1999 as a hobby on my '68 Barracuda. It's held up great and cleans easily even though some of it's 15 years old now.
Steve, either paint or powder will keep future rust at bay. I can't speak for other coaters but if it was on my bench for a restoration I'd completely disassemble everything including the glove box door assembly, prep and powder everything (along with the hardware) to your specs, and leave a small bare spot on the back somewhere so your instrument cluster will ground properly when the job is done. All you'd have to do is take it out of the box, unwrap it and go install it on your car.
This one has a custom ash tray coated in a color to more closely match what the factory did. It's for cosgig on FABO and I'm sure he'd be happy to talk with you about the work if you're inclined.
I quote every job individually to be fair to everybody and what goes into the final cost involves a few factors: how clean it is, what kind of shape it's in (I try to get your metal as close to perfect as I can before any powder is applied unless I'm instructed to the contrary), and what color(s) you want. I charge $30 an hour across the board and offer FBBO members a 5% discount on the labor; Gold members get a 10% discount, and our beloved military members get a 15% labor discount.
On average a dash frame is usually anywhere from 4-8 hours' worth labor (I don't charge for outgassing or curing time because I'm usually working on somebody else's stuff while that's going on) but yours most likely wouldn't be that much if you've already gotten or will get it blasted locally. Whatever prep you can do yourself saves me time so it saves you money and the cheaper it'll be.
If you can shoot me a few good pictures of your dash I can give you a more accurate estimate. In particular I'd like to see close ups of any nastiness -- dings, dents, casting defects, any areas that'll need some cosmetic help, the glove box lid, etc. My email address is
[email protected].
I've got a few hundred powder colors in stock and can order thousands of others. I just try to do my best to take that picture in your head and put it on yours parts, and give you something you'll be proud of for many years.
If you'd rather talk about the details than type, that's fine too. Give me a call or pass along your number and I'll call you.
In the meantime, here's a couple other work samples to get you going on your valve covers and air cleaner -- custom one-offs are one of my specialties. There's hundreds more on my website and the shop has its own FaceBook Fan Page.
Thanks again for the kind words gentlemen! I'm here if ya have any questions or want to see more ideas.
