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Subframe connectors worth installing?

  • Thread starter Deleted member 214
  • Start date
Just finishing up all new front suspension on 1966 belvedere with a 383 and I also added frame connectors, car is going to alignment shop tomorrow, sooner will be adding front sway bar also, I have pictures of car but do not know how to post them, can I send them to somebody to post for me
 
Just finishing up all new front suspension on 1966 belvedere with a 383 and I also added frame connectors, car is going to alignment shop tomorrow, sooner will be adding front sway bar also, I have pictures of car but do not know how to post them, can I send them to somebody to post for me

sign up on photobucket or another image hosting site - its easy as drag and drop!
 
US Cartool. Welded. First time I romped on the rebuilt 440, the windshield cracked. THEN I put in the connectors, should have been in first. Rigid, quieter, better door fit etc.
X2 they should have put them in from factory.... if not for the power for the strength if you ever have an accident... for ultimate strength weld up all the body seams both sides with hemi boxes on top of that. The cars are just tack welded at best from the factory
 
US Cartool. Welded. First time I romped on the rebuilt 440, the windshield cracked. THEN I put in the connectors, should have been in first. Rigid, quieter, better door fit etc.
Yup.. and, it's not because of the age of the cars, either. This happened to me on a car relatively new back in the early 70's. As I shifted, I said, "What the ... ??".
 
US Car Tool frame connectors and torque boxes installed on my ole' 66 Satellite. I will also be installing the radiator support doubbler and shock tower stiffners. Preparing the car for the 512/440 that will be unleashed.
 
So: For a guy who "can weld" (I'm not a "real welder"), how hard is it to do this with the car on stands just a foot or two off the ground? I can do a pretty good job with two pieces of steel on a table but on my back? Or on my belly? Yikes. Did you guys do these in your garage on the floor?
 
So: For a guy who "can weld" (I'm not a "real welder"), how hard is it to do this with the car on stands just a foot or two off the ground? I can do a pretty good job with two pieces of steel on a table but on my back? Or on my belly? Yikes. Did you guys do these in your garage on the floor?

yes and its not really that bad
 
So: For a guy who "can weld" (I'm not a "real welder"), how hard is it to do this with the car on stands just a foot or two off the ground? I can do a pretty good job with two pieces of steel on a table but on my back? Or on my belly? Yikes. Did you guys do these in your garage on the floor?

Did my past two sets on the floor, in the garage. Like Dangina said, "It's not really that bad". Squeezed under a car on stands, wearing a welding helmet and trying to position the gun isn't a whole lot of fun, especially trying to move around. Worst part's are trying to get a good angle, and then the weld spatter. Definitely toss on your welding jacket, a good welding cap/beanie and toss in some ear plugs (keeps spatter out of your ear). Getting some welding spatter on your skin while under the car sucks, being you can't do the "Oh Sh*T!!" dance to get it off quickly. I use 6 ton stands as well, for the extra height. Good luck, great upgrade to your car.
 
I know the US Car Tool connectors are the choice connectors. Can a person put another style in without carpet removal? Anybody done it with carpet still in car?
 
Hotchkis doesn't require carpet removal for subframe connectors.

Tig it if you can. Either way your weld in some wacky positions.
 
I installed connectors from Global West. They are tubular cylindrical instead of open rectangular and have a perfect fit on each end that gets welded. Only need to notch one small 1-inch section by the seat mounts under the car. Only the ends are welded, so no floor welding or carpet removal. Tubular is more rigid than the rectangular channel connectors as well. Whatever you do, DEFINITELY weld the ends and don't cheap out and just do bolt on type because those WILL loosen over time. How long - who knows?

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I believe the Hotchkis connectors are only bolt-on kind. Not to say you couldn't weld over the top of the bolt connection somehow though?
 
So: For a guy who "can weld" (I'm not a "real welder"), how hard is it to do this with the car on stands just a foot or two off the ground? I can do a pretty good job with two pieces of steel on a table but on my back? Or on my belly? Yikes. Did you guys do these in your garage on the floor?

I did min in the garage, on jack stands, on my back and it wasn't that bad . . . just watch out for the "molten" rain . . . that really made it interesting ! !
 
We used Magnum Force tubular connectors and they went in in about half an hour with only drilling and no cutting. The rear floor plates required us to lift up the rear carpet. Cheap and easy but all sub's help the handling. Unibody cars are like a flexible flyer sleds with out the front and rear frame rails tied together.
 
So if what I am seeing in this thread, is that most of you guys are saying yes to subframe connectors. That also about torque boxes as well. I am seriously thinking about the RMS Alterkation front suspension on my 69 Charger. We have a lot of twisty roads here in Western PA, plus I will probably do a track day from time to time with her.
 
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