What did you do to your Mopar today?
- Thread starter MustangAndy
- Start date
ODZKing
Well-Known Member
Yeah, did that within the first year. My wife stiched patches which wore out so she used jean material this time.
Coronet 14
Well-Known Member
Getting exhaust put on it. When I dropped it off. I found oil pooling under an intake bolt so that will get fixed to. A year and a half ago I had someone put the intake on and do some other stuff to it. Well I so far I had to FIX everything the place touched. Well this was the last item that I hoped would not have to get touched. I was WRONG.
67Charger
Well-Known Member
This week:
- '71 Challenger /6 died in the driveway at work - Alt wasn't charging. Jumped it, charged it and drove it home later, charged fine the whole way home.
- Ordered alt, pulled the old one, realized it was a good time to swap fuel pumps I ordered a while back
- Fabbed new over the valve cover fuel line instead of behind the hot radiator and through the belt
- While it was down, decided it was a good time to fix the intake/exhaust leak
- Broke a bolt on the manifold, decided it was a good idea to replace all bolts/studs on the intake/exhaust
- Ordered 12 studs & new lock nuts
- Broke a stud (back one, of course)
- Drilled out said stud. Still no new studs, but noticed oil on top of all of the valves
- Destroyed valve cover removing it due to the the freshly glued gasket (last weeks project while adjusting valves) not wanting to let go without a fight.
- Order new cover and gasket
- Order new valve seals. In the mean time, decided it was a good idea to dive into the carb and see why it always dies during left turns and hard stops
- Find float WAY too low and too small of a main jet
- Order new main jet and adjust fload height.
- Pick up new exhaust seals, but feeling lazy/efficiency minded, bought a set of double jointed needle nose pliers and a clamp to hold the valves by the stems rather than with air pressure
- Change out seals.
- Check exhaust manifold for cause of exhaust leak, find factory machining flaw leaving a low spot through and exhaust mating flange
- Surface exhaust manifold.
- Decide it is a good time to change out those leaky freeze plugs
- Get red loctite, dremel w/ scotchbrtite, R&R plugs.
Now it is once again time to return to the work week and the car is still blown apart and has the old alt still on there. Need a manifold flange gasket, valve cover and to find my flaring tool to finish the fuel line to the carb.
All this over an alt that temprorily crapped out, but healed itself before I even tried to fix it.
- '71 Challenger /6 died in the driveway at work - Alt wasn't charging. Jumped it, charged it and drove it home later, charged fine the whole way home.
- Ordered alt, pulled the old one, realized it was a good time to swap fuel pumps I ordered a while back
- Fabbed new over the valve cover fuel line instead of behind the hot radiator and through the belt
- While it was down, decided it was a good time to fix the intake/exhaust leak
- Broke a bolt on the manifold, decided it was a good idea to replace all bolts/studs on the intake/exhaust
- Ordered 12 studs & new lock nuts
- Broke a stud (back one, of course)
- Drilled out said stud. Still no new studs, but noticed oil on top of all of the valves
- Destroyed valve cover removing it due to the the freshly glued gasket (last weeks project while adjusting valves) not wanting to let go without a fight.
- Order new cover and gasket
- Order new valve seals. In the mean time, decided it was a good idea to dive into the carb and see why it always dies during left turns and hard stops
- Find float WAY too low and too small of a main jet
- Order new main jet and adjust fload height.
- Pick up new exhaust seals, but feeling lazy/efficiency minded, bought a set of double jointed needle nose pliers and a clamp to hold the valves by the stems rather than with air pressure
- Change out seals.
- Check exhaust manifold for cause of exhaust leak, find factory machining flaw leaving a low spot through and exhaust mating flange
- Surface exhaust manifold.
- Decide it is a good time to change out those leaky freeze plugs
- Get red loctite, dremel w/ scotchbrtite, R&R plugs.
Now it is once again time to return to the work week and the car is still blown apart and has the old alt still on there. Need a manifold flange gasket, valve cover and to find my flaring tool to finish the fuel line to the carb.
All this over an alt that temprorily crapped out, but healed itself before I even tried to fix it.
66four40
Well-Known Member
This past weekend, replaced the thermostat, upper and lower rad hose, alternator and power steering belts. Also put high temp thread sealer on the rear exhaust manifold bolts as one was leaking. Knock those jobs off the winter project list. Now on to the axle bearings!
67 Mopar
Well-Known Member
I fixed an old scab on the firewall this morning... I didn't even need a grinder to remove the old scab of a patch, it just peeled off by hand. It was only 17 degrees (F) out this morning when I fixed this, so it was a bit of a rush job... I clean it up later in a nice warm shop.
YY1
Well-Known Member
Pushed Satellite out of one bay and into a larger one so I can pull the engine and get at those freeze plugs.
Also removed hood.
Would have driven it, but I think the starter bendix went bad since last time I drove it
Probably gonna be a long project as I'd like to paint the engine compartment while it's out, paint the engine, blast and paint the frame rails and install the poly isolator bushings and factory sway bar. Might do lower ball joints too.
Also removed hood.
Would have driven it, but I think the starter bendix went bad since last time I drove it
Probably gonna be a long project as I'd like to paint the engine compartment while it's out, paint the engine, blast and paint the frame rails and install the poly isolator bushings and factory sway bar. Might do lower ball joints too.
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not damn thing. Well I swept up around it a little. Do that count?
67 Mopar
Well-Known Member
I pulled it out of the Twinkie and sent it to the shop.
They came and took the Charger this morning! That's one big step forward!
They came and took the Charger this morning! That's one big step forward!
watermelon
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Exciting ^^^
I did a firmware update on the MSD Atomic EFI and put 30 miles on the car. Runs good.
I did a firmware update on the MSD Atomic EFI and put 30 miles on the car. Runs good.
1948 santa
Well-Known Member
Installed a new 6 leaf set of ESPO springs. The 63 Sport Fury came with 5 leaf springs but Laura at ESPO talked me into 6 leaf springs and I'm real happy with the results. It raised the rear of the car 2.5 inches no more air shocks needed.
66four40
Well-Known Member
Installed new heater hoses and ran them to the fender instead of right over the distributor and valve cover like the previous owner had done. Also mocked up the template for my fan shroud mounts out of cereal boxes. Now my neighbor is bending the aluminum for them this week, and should be able to get the shroud installed.
Moparmatt72
Well-Known Member
Been working on a 67 dart GT, installed insulation all over, now onto rewiring the car, tail section is done working on all the dash switches then onto the front. Waiting for some interior pieces and need to order a new carpet and front seats still along with getting the rear seat redone, oh and a headliner, starting a punch list and knocking thing out one at a time.
YY1
Well-Known Member
Started stripping the accessories from the engine on the Satellite.
So Far so good.
I think I'm just pulling the motor, and not the trans, since I have to separate them anyway for freeze plug access..
That way I won't have to F with the driveshaft, trans fluid, shift linkage, or worry about the angle of lift.
Might not even take the rad out.
Interestingly, all the exhaust manifold bolts came free with hand torque on a 3/8 drive...and none broke.
So Far so good.
I think I'm just pulling the motor, and not the trans, since I have to separate them anyway for freeze plug access..
That way I won't have to F with the driveshaft, trans fluid, shift linkage, or worry about the angle of lift.
Might not even take the rad out.
Interestingly, all the exhaust manifold bolts came free with hand torque on a 3/8 drive...and none broke.
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
I took the front fenders and my old hood off (ill miss my power/air tool bench ) But thought it be the right time to do it as i wait for MONEY for welding gas and other supply's i seem to have run short on, AND a part from a fellow member to get the rear side of my car finished up, i hope! Lots of fun stuff and pleased at least for now it is winter, you shouldn't feel guilty working in a shop when you cant do any work outside, of course sooner or later it is plowing the white stuff out of the way and by the looks of things here there are some enjoying, not enjoying the winter months too
- - - Updated - - -
I forgot, I love this thread as much as the restoration threads, Its cool to see what everyone is doing, body or mechanical! Thank you again if your still hanging out Andy, i do hope your Charger worked out good for ya!!!
) But thought it be the right time to do it as i wait for MONEY for welding gas and other supply's i seem to have run short on, AND a part from a fellow member to get the rear side of my car finished up, i hope! Lots of fun stuff and pleased at least for now it is winter, you shouldn't feel guilty working in a shop when you cant do any work outside, of course sooner or later it is plowing the white stuff out of the way and by the looks of things here there are some enjoying, not enjoying the winter months too - - - Updated - - -
I forgot, I love this thread as much as the restoration threads, Its cool to see what everyone is doing, body or mechanical! Thank you again if your still hanging out Andy, i do hope your Charger worked out good for ya!!!
This week I got to work and made my main roll bar hoop, rear bars and welded into place. Next comes the cross bar and then door bars. Still deciding on what sort of swing out door bar ends to go with so that is a delay. I see the latching type is only for 1 5/8 OD and I'm using 1 3/4 DOM by .120. Any ideas???
patrick66
Well-Known Member
This afternoon on my '66 Coronet, I plan on swapping out the old disc brake calipers for new ones. The old ones, off a '73 Dart, have the plastic pistons and have begun to stick badly. The replacements have the metal pistons, as they should be. I need to check the rear axle lube level, too. I noticed a little leakage out the pinion seal the other day. I really need to get under the car and install the new rear leaf springs, too!
the other day. I really need to get under the car and install the new rear leaf springs, too!
YY1
Well-Known Member
Removed rad and blocked off lines
Removed p/s pump
Removed starter, inspection cover and torque converter bolts
Removed all electrical connections and ground strap
Installed ratchet strap to act as trans support (hope it works)
Only thing left is four top engine to trans bolts, engine mounts and fuel line.
Also made a bolt holder for the engine stand because you can NEVER find bolts long enough or the right size when you need them.
Next weekend it should come out.
I used 1/2" bolt protective caps to cap the compression fittings on the radiator, and used those same caps to mold a silicone end on some 1/2" bolts to plug the line end of the connector.
My engine hoist has a 24 volt pallet jack hydraulic pump and ram on it, installed by the previous owner.
I added the computer battery backup (which was already 24v), so now it is cordless and rechargeable!
That and the engine stand were a package deal CL score- $50 for both of them!
Removed p/s pump
Removed starter, inspection cover and torque converter bolts
Removed all electrical connections and ground strap
Installed ratchet strap to act as trans support (hope it works)
Only thing left is four top engine to trans bolts, engine mounts and fuel line.
Also made a bolt holder for the engine stand because you can NEVER find bolts long enough or the right size when you need them.
Next weekend it should come out.
I used 1/2" bolt protective caps to cap the compression fittings on the radiator, and used those same caps to mold a silicone end on some 1/2" bolts to plug the line end of the connector.
My engine hoist has a 24 volt pallet jack hydraulic pump and ram on it, installed by the previous owner.
I added the computer battery backup (which was already 24v), so now it is cordless and rechargeable!
That and the engine stand were a package deal CL score- $50 for both of them!
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