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RE: OILING MODS Help

uwss

uwss

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Firlst off, How much oil pressure for a .030 over 440 stroked to 520. 11:1 compression. Solid roller lifters with solid roller cam and Harland sharp rocker arms ??????? At idle and full rpm(6000) plus .

I pre-oiled the motor with the drill running backwards; the dash oil pressure gauge read over 100 psi and no oil to the heads.

Why no oil to the heads ? Called Comp Cams and they stated no oil to heads unless the motor was running. Engine builder wants to groove the cam 1/8" for constant oiling to the heads. Is this a good idea ?

Phillip
 
If you rotate the engine by hand while running the drill motor, you will hear the oil start to push up. The cam oil holes only put up so much oil to the heads as it rotates and anymore than that may be too much.
 
You have to rotate the crankshaft until the oiling holes line up while running the drill to get oil to the heads.
 
After using break in oil, I will go with Royal Purple synthetic oil
 
rumblefish360 said:
Groove the cam for full time oil isn't a bad idea.
Click to expand...
After restricting oil to the top on race engines, this goes against the grain with me lol. I would think that a full grooved cam would put too much oil up top especially at higher rpm's and that's not a good thing with stock oil pans. Maybe drilling the oil holes in the cam to the next drill size might be a better solution? Also, the stock type oiling system has never presented a problem on mild high performance engines in the past....
 
I'm with Cranky on this one. Never had any oil related problems with the valve train and again, you need to turn the motor over by hand while running your drill to get oil to both heads. Check your gauge again while you're doing it. 70-80 pounds is plenty and easily adjustable. Ahhhh, another Mopar advantage....lol
 
Whew. I see Cranky is already here.

I saw the thread title and felt a little anxious
 
How much oil pressure should I see using a drill ? What should I adjust it to ? My gauge read over 100 psi. when I had the drill running. Or should I wait till the car is up and running ? I can see the oil going to the oil gauge from the back of the engine from the clear hose line. The oil gauge appears pegged out. I have the Milodon adjustable oil pressure regulator but I don't see any instructions that came with it. I will call them in CA when they open.

I see cranky says to check tolerances on the oil pump. My new is already installed. Should I go ahead and pull it and check it or just go ahead and run the drill on it and prime the motor ?????????

Also, I have a new bronze gear to go in. I see from the service manual to align the slot with the crankshaft after TDC on #1 cylinder. Is this supposed to be with both valves closed ? I have a solid roller cam and lifers but a drag cram and Harland Sharp rockers. Those harland sharp rockers are vey nice.
 
Last edited:
Personally, I would wait until you get it running and warmed up to adjust the pressure if it's an electric gauge. If it's a mechanical gauge, what is the highest pressure it will read? You don't want to put over 100 lbs. to a gauge that only reads 80 lbs.
 
What's the rpm of your drill? Keep in mind that your oil pump speed is 1/2 of engine rpm....cold oil will usually produce higher pressures....even if it's 10-30
 
The factory oil to the top is controlled by a Y shaped galley in the #4 cam journal. Oil will only go to the top once per revolution. You won't see true psi until the motor is running and warmed up. When I first put my 572 together it had 100+psi at start-up. Then only 40 psi@7000. Had the oil pump relief valve screw in past the lock nut. The motor was built with .004" rod bearing clearance so I reduced that to .003", no help. I my case the motor had bushed lifter bores and was oiled on the top end through the pushrods. It was getting a ton of oil to the top. I ended up restricting the tappet feed holes from, 2 .110" holes down to, 1 .040" hole. That was the ticket. This allowed me to unscrew the oil pump relief valve screw out nearly 1/4". Now it has 60 psi@7000, (w/5w30 oil). My point is that bearing clearance can have far less effect on oil psi than leakage around tappet bores and too much upstairs. How much tappet clearance do you have? I'll bet it was not checked. Rotate the engine by hand while priming to make sure that it does oil to the top. If so, get it running and see what psi it has warm. It's pretty rare to have a stock oil feed system that doesn't have enough flow to the top end. For what its worth my 572" runs regularly to 7100. It has 190 passes on the bearings w/o issue. checked at 100 passes, they looked like new.
Doug
 
Do not use a full groove on the #4 cam journal. You will flood the top of the engine with oil especially using the valve train that you have. Just went through this whole thing a few months ago with a 505 stroker.

You will have about 5# more oil pressure when the engine is running than when using a drill motor to prime the engine. 100# is excessive, not at all neccessary, and will only cause a horsepower loss.

Comp Cams tech line doesn't include the sharpest tacks in the box. Like others have said, you need to rotate the engine while priming with a drill motor. Watch the oil pressure gauge and when you see a 5-7# oil pressure drop while priming, the holes in the cam journal have lined up with the holes in the block and oil is now flowing to one side of the engine. Hold it there for 10 seconds or so and that top side of the engine will be fully primed. The rotate the engine until the pressure drops again and you are now priming the other side of the engine.

It's even possible to prime the engine by hand with a speed wrench and get almost full oil pressure, been there, done that.
 
Hey cranky, what weight oil do you use on your hair?
 
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