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Whiplash

lewtot184 was telling me for aluminum closed chambered heads he likes icon 836 installed on stock rods it sits .01 below deck for a 9.51:1 compression ratio with .020 steel head gasket and 88cc heads. Thats what I came up with anyway, double check this because i am brand new to the engine math and can make a mistake pretty quick.
 
Wookie316 said:
Curious on the KB184. I am in the process of putting a 440 together and I was planning on using the MP Aluminum 452 on top. What do you guys think about those pistons with that head combo?
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won't work unless you mill the quench dome down. the mp 452 is an 84cc edlbrock rpm with straight plugs. the kb184 will work with 88cc edelbrocks and will yeild a little over 9:1 compression.

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a different twist on the 87 octane thing. you can use a kb251 piston and a 4.15 crank to get a 8.8:1 493cuin engine that should run fine on 87 and if cammed correctly make gobs of torque. i've thought about this one, should be simple.
 
Keep in mind that I am new to this so Its good to double check everything . lewtot184 was telling me that he likes the KB184 for stock iron head builds. On stock rods they sit .085 below deck and.... have a 9.2:1 compression with a .020 steel shim gasket and 88cc iron heads....8.25:1 with .080 copper gasket. For aluminum closed chamber heads he said Icon836 was a good one, on stock rods they sit .01 below deck and have 9.51:1 compression with .020 steel shim gasket and 88cc heads........8.49:1 with .080 copper gasket. He did say the two pistons could not be interchanged in the respective applications. Maybe he will stop by later and add a little more for your combo

I just saw he beat me to it lol. An 87 octane stroker motor.....thats an interesting thought. HMMMMMmmmmmmm

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I just realized i am about a half a step from a 512 stroker kit from 440 source. Getting carried away again
 
What CR can you expect with a KB184 if you mill the quench dome on a 84 cc head. I have a set of iron heads kicking around at home too, but I am not sure what the # is? What iron heads work with a KB184? Thanks.
 
Wookie316 said:
What CR can you expect with a KB184 if you mill the quench dome on a 84 cc head. I have a set of iron heads kicking around at home too, but I am not sure what the # is? What iron heads work with a KB184? Thanks.
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any of the '68 or later open chamber heads, also stage IV and stage V. i've used them with '906's and stage V's. hope to use them with some stage I hughs' '452's i have.

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i'd like to make a comment on the Whiplash/Thumper cams. these cams are designed with very tight lobe seperation angles, 107, and long duration exhaust lobes. the intent is to give the lopey idle that some prefer or just plain can't live without. some have had performance success with them but i believe their primary function is the lopey idle idle at the cruise-in. some folks want this, some don't. the more extreme the idle the more precise the tuneup will need to be. if your not a tune-up guy or don't have help with it,....well; i'm not saying don't but they may not be for everybody.
 
I don't know, but with 14,000 miles on the engine I would install it in the car, assuming the car is ready, and drive it while I worked in firming up the build. Of course a cam change would be in order. just my .02.
 
Its my daily driving car , I just want a new drivetrain for it. It has a small block set up at the moment and its getting pretty wore out
 
i've been getting some kb184 questions so i decided to post a pic of what i do. i've tried to highlight where the quench dome fits in the open chamber recess. i also show a depth mic i use to measure the recess in the head and to measure deck height when the piston is in the block at TDC. hopefully the pic is helpful.
 

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we get on these forums, type a bunch of stuff trying to convey an idea but it's not as good as something visual. when i first went thru the kb184 thing i was all **** trying to be perfect and basically driving the machinist nuts. i learned that this whole thing is very simple but does require taking a little time and measuring. anybody who measures piston deck height can easily do this. all your trying to do is turn a non-quench chamber into a quench by using a piston rather than a head casting. always keeping in mind that the top of the piston is actually the floor of the chamber.
 
for those messing with iron heads and wondering if they've been milled here is a simple check. the thickness of the deck at the lower row of head bolts should be 1.000" or very close on an un-milled head.. the depth of the recess in the open chamber heads should measure very close to .100" for an un-milled head.
 

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You Rock Lew ... Im sure that I and about 20 other guys reading this find that extremely helpful :wav:
 
I was curious , I have had about every stock motor I have owned make it to at least 250,000 miles , more in most cases. I have heard rebuilding an engine for performance (even mild) will last no where near that.Do you have an opinion on that sort of thing? I would think a close to stock build , even pushed a bit should last a good long while if care was taken during the build. If you get the time I wouldnt mind seeing a pic or two of that coronet of yours :icon_pidu:
 
good question. the more power you make, and you use it, the quicker the rings go away. i don't think there is a definitive answer but us hot rodders know that stuff wears out much faster with abuse. sensible driving, frequent oil changes, and unleaded fuel will make one of these dinosaurs last much longer than they did in the '60's.
 

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lewtot184 said:
for those messing with iron heads and wondering if they've been milled here is a simple check. the thickness of the deck at the lower row of head bolts should be 1.000" or very close on an un-milled head.. the depth of the recess in the open chamber heads should measure very close to .100" for an un-milled head.
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Any idea how to figure out approx cc's if the head has been milled? Let's use .030 on an 88cc head for example.
 
This is totally off topic , but I just tried using distilled vinegar as a rust remover after hearing a story or two. I decided to grab the nastiest pitted rusted bracket I had (alternator bracket) and did a three day soak in the back room at room temp (70 degrees or so). I cant believe how well it worked , no ****!!! I wish I had taken before and after pics. I thought it was a failed experiment so I took the bracket out to "scrub it up a bit with an old dish sponge after a few wipes it was completely clean steel. I am in total shock at how well it worked. I guess it was a legit deal after all.:pottytrain3:
 
Ross said:
This is totally off topic , but I just tried using distilled vinegar as a rust remover after hearing a story or two. I decided to grab the nastiest pitted rusted bracket I had (alternator bracket) and did a three day soak in the back room at room temp (70 degrees or so). I cant believe how well it worked , no ****!!! I wish I had taken before and after pics. I thought it was a failed experiment so I took the bracket out to "scrub it up a bit with an old dish sponge after a few wipes it was completely clean steel. I am in total shock at how well it worked. I guess it was a legit deal after all.:pottytrain3:
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Huh. That's cool, man. Add some salt and it will clean any copper oxidation in seconds. I used that a year or so ago while chasing an overcharging issue. Molasses works well too but it's REALLY slow on parts with a lot of rust.
 
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