• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Jeremey's Ivy Green Metallic 1970 Plymouth Satellite Sport 2 Door Hardtop

$300 labor to pull the engine? Did you ever see an engine pulled at a boneyard? talk about hack jobs. takes them about ten minutes with torches and cutters(hoses,wires0
Gawd i wish you were closer, i've got the truck, the picker, the willingness to help.
 
I wish you were too. :(

Alright, So... I've prepared for several possibilities of getting it home.
Now,
I just need to go in and see if it's actually still there or not.
Then Figure out what tools I directly need so I don't have to lug around a bunch of stuff. Figure out if I can move a yard provided crane or not by myself and plan my course of attack.

What's the quickest way to go about getting it pulled, Complete with Accessories?
I assume pulling with the tranny attached, then unbolting the tranny would be my best bet. I would like (Need) the transmission as well, But I'm just too short of funds.
Once I start unbolting I've got to be ready to leave with it at that point. People like to swoop and take advantage if you go out to your car briefly and such. And it's literally located at a far corner of the yard.

Details like how many bolts (Sizes?) and what to disconnect would be great if anyone knows. It's a Chrysler C-Body.

- JDB
 
Being a "C-body" means MORE ROOM to work...
1. You need the engine hoist.
2. If the location is in soil/grass, you need a hard surface for the hoist to roll around on.
3. Perhaps have someone with a BobCat help and use that as a hoist.
 
Same thing, I wish I was closer, I must be a little sideways cause I dig scrounging parts at jy's. I was up in your neck of the woods (Tacoma) a few months ago picking up donor parts for my build.

As for the removal, bring a lot of tools. You'll need a full set of combination wrenches ( 6pt are best) and 3/8" and 1/2" socket sets, with extensions and swivels if you got 'em. A breaker bar would save some knuckle skin too - I got a 24" at HF for like $10. You'll need it to hold the crank bolt as you're busting the flex plate bolts loose - it's a big socket too but I don't remember the size; another member can give the exact size but's at least 1". Bring an assortment of screw drivers (both kinds), pliers, needle nose pliers to remove the tranny linkage, vice grips, adjustable wrench, hammers, penetrating oil. There will be a lot of rusted bolts so you'll have to go Medieval at times.

Leave as much on the engine as you can: alt, p/s pump, exh manifolds, etc. I found it easier to remove the motor mount bolts from the K member and then take off the motor mounts once the engine's out. You have to drop the tranny crossmember mount and disconnect the U-joints at the rear yoke to slide the drive shaft back. BTW, if I remember correctly you need a deep-walled socket to get to the tranny mount bolt.

Also bring containers to capture the oil and ATF to minimize leakage in your van. A box of plastic baggies is good for keeping small parts together. You'll want to put a baggy with a tie/rubber band around the rear tranny seal cause it will weep ATF out the back.
Bring a camera too and take pictures of where accessories attach; pix have been a lifesaver with my build.

I'm sure that I'm forgetting something but you'll get a ton of responses from other members. Good luck!
 
What to disconnect? Take a look at what's in your Satellite, it won't be very different. The basics - electrical connections to the alternator and starter, possibly carb. Fuel lines, transmission cooling lines, radiator and heater lines. Pulling the radiator leaves more room for maneuvering. If the yard has a torch you can borrow, it's easier to cut off the exhaust pipes than to try to unbolt them.

Mechanical linkage from throttle pedal to carb, carb to transmission, shifter to transmission. If you're pulling the tranny with the engine you can leave the driveshaft, it'll slip out on it's own.

The obvious transmission and engine mounts. By now there should be an engine ready to pull out. If you take off all the plug wires there'll be less to snag and you'll want new ones anyway.
 
Thanks much!

When you say the driveshaft will slip out, Will it slip from the trans or the rear axle?
I'm prepared for all the hoses and most linkages, And I have a sawzall for the exhaust if needed. It's just more that I'm not entirely sure what to expect from the Drivetrain/Transmission removal and key bolt locations underneath.

Any ballpark estimate on time to pull, With just one person doing it?

- JDB
 
the driveshaft will slip out of the transmissin, but it may save a littler grief if you drop it from the rearend. If you can take some plywood with you(taht you would leave behind) that will give you a good surface for the hoist. A few hours, I would think. I've done engine swaps by myself, not that bad pulling because you aren't trying to line stuff up. Run things over in your head, may save you some grif with the engine halfway out. Last engine oull I did I disconnected the wiring for the engine at the firewall. One diconnect, instead of a bunch of little ones, plus you have all the wire ends if needed. Don't know you're experence, so forgive me if I'm telling you stuff you already know!
pull the hood
Pull the rad,heater hoses,
wiring (should be a ground strap on the back of the engine, the kind of thing you find when the engine is halfway out)
accelorater cable & kickdown linkage
motor mount bolts on the K frame,one on each side
If just taking the engine,forget messing with the driveshaft and Netiral switch wires,
unbolt the trans to engine bolts,including the starter,pull the inspection plate off the trans so you can get to the torque converter bolts (4)
exhaust
what are you using to attatch you cherry picker to the engine? small chain bolted to the engine will work if you don't have a motor plate.
are you planning to run the engine as is or rebuild? the yard should be able to fire it up and let you hear it before you pull it.
 
Any ballpark estimate on time to pull, With just one person doing it?

- JDB[/QUOTE]

It took me about 4 hours, but I work slow and methodical. And the torque converter bolts slowed me down. Speaking of, it's a little more challenging getting the flex plate bolts off with just one person. With two people, one can apply counter-pressure to the harmonic balancer bolt. By yourself you have to wedge either a piece of wood or a strong screwdriver between the flex plate and tranny case to stop it from turning; but doing it that way risks damaging the flex plate. Best case, if you have the room in the van and plan on keeping the tranny is to unbolt it once you get home and have someone to help.
 
and be DAMN SAFE working under the car by yourself in the yard. I've seen some scarey stuff(by the yard workers)
 
A simple Picture can say a lot~
IMG_20140711_124944_zps821db68a.jpg


- JDB
 
Looks like you got that "simple picture" right where you want it! Your getting there, I don't know if it helps but i tell my wife anymore about my car stuff, that the back of our B-Body shirts tells it all, "Real man drive a Mopar".. It does, cause we go the extra mile to git her done! GOOD deal!!!
 
An Original E440 and 727 from a 1969 Chrysler New Yorker.

IMG_20140711_125100_zps40a70c53.jpg


It took me about 3 hours to unbolt everything and lift it out. Getting it moved across the yard (On gravel), And to My Home? That's another story that maybe I'll share later.

I did about 98% of the work. Alone.
The Lynnwood Washington Pick-N-Pull, No matter how much you are struggling, And despite them receiving a $500 sale, WILL NOT HELP YOU AT ALL.

- JDB
 
sounds like a place I'd want to frequent...no help...unbelievable. Glad you were able to get the trans too. $500 is a good deal. What are your plans? Clean up and regasket and run it, or rebuild?
 
They get worse and worse every year, And prices go up all the time.
I heard a man was severely injured (Possibly Killed?!) in the yard last year due to bad placement of a vehicle...

I went through all the employees I came across, All of whom acted snotty and said they could not do anything and just directed me to the Manager. Then the Manager looked at me like I was Batshit crazy asking for help. She literally said "What do you expect me to do?"

There was one Yard Worker, A Tall Guy, Who could apparently see how distressed I was and then probably risked getting in trouble by helping Me FILL THE FLAT TIRE ON THE YARD CRANE and Move it with the Engine Hanging, Onto pavement.
Probably the hardest thing to do in this entire process as the yard is 90% Large Chunks of Rock.
I tried to give Him some cash (He refused) and then Disappeared...
When no one else would help me, He did. And I'm forever grateful for that.
Thank you kind stranger.

After getting blown off and left hanging the day before. I finally got someone on the phone and arranged loading, Then delivery for a 3-5 Minute drive to My Home for $40.

I would like to do a "Go-Fast" Rebuild.
This has been on my list of wants/upgrades. But... I was not expecting a 1969/70 440 to come this soon. I felt that I needed to jump on the opportunity.

With that said,
I still need to focus funds and energy on the actually Car before I dive into a full Drivetrain swap.

Parts are falling into place, Weather is nice (HOT!) and I'm starting to have more energy. I'm kind of surprised I could do all that I've done in the last 2 days (Perseverance!). But I almost pushed myself way too far a couple times.

- JDB
 
you probably did the right thing by getting the motor when you did. who knows when something like that will come again. Time now to step back and take a breather to reorganize your mind to what your next step is going to be.
 
yeah a '69 Big Block is hard to pass up. Damn shame the yard treats their customers like that. Used to be you could go into a yard, and they would loan you tools (might be crappy cheap stuff, but at least they would help. You come to the office with a arm load of goodies and the man would tell you $20.
 
Hello!
Today (12.19.14) Marks the 2nd Year Anniversary of Ownership of My 1970 Plymouth

Sadly,
I do not have too much to report, Due to some things happening I would rather not go into.

However! I have still been gathering parts, And planning what all I would like to do.

I was able to get: Valve Covers, Rockers and an Aftermarket 4BBL Carter for My 440.

A deal for Fenders fell through. So I still need at least a Passenger Side Fender for a '70.

A '69 Satellite Wagon (318) came into the local wrecking yard, And I was able to get some parts from it. It was picked pretty clean before it met it's fate.
If I decided to go drastic, I have about 90% of what I need to swap a '69 Front end on My '70...

I had a problem with fuel delivery, And a quick Fuel Filter and Hose swap fixed that. However, She is now stuck in the backyard where I moved Her temporarily as I worked on my Parents vehicle, And she will not stay running. The Carb is having troubles.
I have a rebuild kit on order, And hope to have Her moved out of the backyard as soon as possible to avoid any weather degradation/damage.

Tabs are due for renewal in Feb, And I have not had any further problems with the state since the last fiasco.

That is about all I can think of at the moment.

- Jeremey
 
I'm glad to see you are still moving it forward one piece at a time. Keep us updated
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top