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Waking up the beast

This is what I'll be dealing with for the next few days. This is a picture from last year. No work on the car for about a week I would assume.
 

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Bobtile is that your house ?, in that photo
if it is OMFG, good for you
you really go all out don't you, that's an impressive showing, you really get into it...
 
Bobtile is that your house ?, in that photo
if it is OMFG, good for you
you really go all out don't you, that's an impressive showing, you really get into it...

Yup, that's my house. I've been doing it like that for about ten years now. It's getting to be too much. I do Halloween like that too. I built all of my animated halloween stuff myself. We have a cop on the street directing traffic. They bus the kids in from somewhere.
 
Yup, that's my house. I've been doing it like that for about ten years now. It's getting to be too much. I do Halloween like that too. I built all of my animated halloween stuff myself. We have a cop on the street directing traffic. They bus the kids in from somewhere.


Can you fly me in to see the magnificent decorations?
 
I posted this in the brake section but wanted to post here as well.


Risidual valve question

I had a power disc conversion kit on my car with drums on back. I recently purchased a Strange manual master cylinder to replace the power unit for weight savings. On the paperwork from Strange, it stated for drum brakes I need a 10 residual valve on the rear. I have a proportioning valve on the car from the original kit. Do I still need to put a residual valve inline?

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I didn't know you had a surveillance camera on my car!
 
lets say it like this,
it depends on if stuff is plumbed thru the original distribution valve or not,
or if the original distribution valve was bypassed

In short yes the residual valve will hold the brake pressure slightly at the wheel cylinders on the drum brakes,
unless the proportioning valve has a residual valve built in too...
I'm not sure about the 10# valve,
IIRC the last one I did {SSBC or Wilwood I think} was only a 4# residual valve,
I'd go by what the Strange Engineering instructions say...

photo below is from a 70 Plymouth front disc & rear drum OE application,
but gives routing & the basic Idea, sorry the other draying is kind of small
 

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The proportioning valve that came with the kit was specifically for a disc/drum setup only it was power brakes. That's why I'm thinking that it may have a residual valve built in. If it does, and I put one in line, what would happen?
 
The proportioning valve that came with the kit was specifically for a disc/drum setup only it was power brakes. That's why I'm thinking that it may have a residual valve built in. If it does, and I put one in line, what would happen?

the pressure would be held back, at the one with the higher residual pressure rating,
I think, if I understand what your asking, if you were to use/have both inline...

do you have a photo of your Proportioning valve,
usually if it has 3 or more ports like a distribution/metering valve would,
than it possibly could have a stand off/residual valve built in the Prop.Valve

if it only has just an in & out ports , it's probably just a Prop. Adjustable Pressure Valve,
with no metering/residual pressure held back...
if that makes any sense to at all, sorry my brain is half asleep...
 
This is the best I could do.
 

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I believe {don't quote me} that is an OE style & it would probably have a residual valve built in,
depend on who they're from & what style,
they can have a 2# front residual valve & a rear 10# residual valve built in
{usually for a car with the Master Cylinder low in the car like a Hot Rod}
the other style is
a distribution block much like you show in that photo {don't quote me}
with only a ?# residual valve going to the one out port for the fluid supply to the back brakes only

is that from Right Stuff or In-Line ??

I was actually think about an adjustable style Proportioning valve
or a Adj. Valve with a distribution/metering block combined like below

sorry for any confussion
 

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I bought it from Pirate Jack(I think). It must have been ten years ago. I have every piece of paperwork from the build on this car except the front brake setup. I don't know why its not in my binder, but it ain't.

Is there a way of testing it?

The picture on the bottom right looks exactly like what I have.
 
I'm sure there is a way to test them I haven't done it thou,
yeah,
with a pressure gauge like 400psi-1500psi inline {like 1/8 pipe ports in & out, with line fitting}
on the out side ports of either front or the rear on that valve,
could tell you if it's holding off pressure or has residual pressure,
but IIRC it would have to have a wheel cylinder or caliper to go to, like it's on the car, to be absolutely sure,

I'm sure there's a bench test method too, I can't think of one off hand...
sorry

maybe the FSM will say or have a test procedure...
 
I'll have to look around a bit.
 
I bet you can bench test the residual valves with one of those pressure bleeders. What are they called, mighty mites or something?
 
With the newer prop valves that Pirate Jack and the Ramman are selling, they say there is no need for the small rear hold off valve shown on the left in Buds pic. That's what I was told at least and I didn't put one on my car.

The little black piece is what Wayne - The Ramman calls the residual valve.
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