Starting metal work, rear end of '68 GTX, best way to support car?

rakort · Feb 1, 2015

OK, starting to work on the trunk area of my '68 GTX, currently it is a rolling shell up on jack stands and I am wanting to start some sheet metal work on the trunk including floor, extensions, rear x-member, wheel wells, etc. The car is fairly straight and solidish. I'm wondering what are the best points to support the car with jack stands and keep things straight before I start peeling apart sheet metal? Nominally my intent was to start at the back and work my way forward with the sheet metal work on the bottom of the car.

thanks
Brian

roadrunner69440 · Feb 1, 2015

rakort said:
OK, starting to work on the trunk area of my '68 GTX, currently it is a rolling shell up on jack stands and I am wanting to start some sheet metal work on the trunk including floor, extensions, rear x-member, wheel wells, etc. The car is fairly straight and solidish. I'm wondering what are the best points to support the car with jack stands and keep things straight before I start peeling apart sheet metal? Nominally my intent was to start at the back and work my way forward with the sheet metal work on the bottom of the car.

thanks
Brian[/ , thats pretty much were I started. I made a frame jig for mine. it doesnt really matter how you do it, as long as you have reference points and measurements before during and after the install. mark your floor body and stands, that way you know if anything moved. and dont move you stands or jig untill you are all done.I'll send a pic of the jig I made , it may help

rakort · Feb 1, 2015

Thanks, a picture of your jig would be appreciated. I was also pondering fabbing up a jig / stand that supports the body for this process, BUT I was considering putting that jig on wheels to keep the car mobile. From what you are saying, keeping everything "fixed" in place is a better option.

Then thinking through this whole thing I see skeletons of b-body (uni-body) cars on rotisseries hanging off the ends of frame rails with half the sheet metal removed and wonder how in the world they keep those things straight?? I know folks weld in temporary bracing to keep things straight, but still!?

roadrunner69440 · Feb 1, 2015

yeah I have seen those pics of cars on the rotisserie torn apart also. they claim from what research I've done , that you install quarters with car in it's natural state,ie on wheels or on your jig so there isnt any sprung weight.I've heard of guys getting cracks in thier panels because they installed them on the rotisserie.anywho,,, here are my pics, if i want I can move this jig, all I have to do is crank up the jack bolts and move it. however I dont /wont move it untill its structuraly sound. I have the floor marked with tape around the jack bolts so I know if anything moved while I'm working on the car. hope this helps you out

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heres another

rakort · Feb 2, 2015

Nice frame jig for sure, I see why you wanted a thorough one like that being so far torn apart. I believe things would get funky with a car hanging off the end of the frame rails and tearing it apart and welding it back together! Hopefully I wont be tearing into mine that far and need quite that extensive of a jog, but ya never know! I'm thinking you added two sets of horizontal rails because of the overall height and concerns of the "racking" with what would have otherwise been long vertical supports.

roadrunner69440 · Feb 5, 2015

Well the two horizontal bars help stiffen the jig up, it also works to get the car up so it's easier to work on , so yes it makes the vertical bars shorter . I built my jig for around 400 with wheels and all

Donny · Feb 7, 2015

LOL! You ask the board for the best way to undertake what you're clearly doing -- correctly and the best way! Bravo, carry on! Looks good!

Grashopr · Mar 4, 2015

Yep! Unibody Rack is the best way to do it.. Put the car on it, secure EVERYTHING, then start taking out the bad stuff.

Starting metal work, rear end of '68 GTX, best way to support car?

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