• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Ready to start 5 speed swap on 69 Charger

Overdrives welcome to FBBO
 
5sp Kiesler is here

:grin:I got in from work yesterday to find all parts delivered. I want to thank Got6pak for fast shipping and packing it up so well. I unpacked it like a kid on Christmas morning. Took a bunch of pics to show you guys.:upside down:

- - - Updated - - -

I was stoked about getting started. I could see by the parts,This could get a little intimidating for a backyard hobbiest like me. First thing that jumps out at me is this sheet metal part. Overdrives is right about cutting the hole. This part is to fix center of tunnel.I took a pic of underside of hump so as you can see existing shifter penetrates the hump on side not center of tunnel.I guess I will have to cut atleast a hole in center of hump. When I get to that part, I will definitely share more info.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    167.1 KB · Views: 391
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    55.7 KB · Views: 385
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    59.5 KB · Views: 387
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    61.5 KB · Views: 395
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    54.5 KB · Views: 397
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    58.6 KB · Views: 412
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    63.9 KB · Views: 395
:grin:I got in from work yesterday to find all parts delivered. I want to thank Got6pak for fast shipping and packing it up so well. I unpacked it like a kid on Christmas morning. Took a bunch of pics to show you guys.:upside down:

- - - Updated - - -

I was stoked about getting started. I could see by the parts,This could get a little intimidating for a backyard hobbiest like me. First thing that jumps out at me is this part. Overdrives is right about cutting the hole. This part is to fix center of tunnel.I took a pic of underside of hump so as you can see existing shifter penetrates the hump on side not center of tunnel.I guess I will have to cut atleast a hole in center of hump. When I get to that part, I will definitely share more info.

Looks like you did get the correct sheet metal for the tunnel and I missed it in previous photos. Let us know if you need any tech support along the way.

Jeff
Silver Sport Transmissions
 
Snow Day

:hello2:8 inches of snow last night.No work today. I'll be in shop working on the trans. I'll be snapping pics to share with you guys.
I did notice the serial num looks like could be first one.lol I don't know but check it out.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    47.6 KB · Views: 346
:hello2:8 inches of snow last night.No work today. I'll be in shop working on the trans. I'll be snapping pics to share with you guys.
I did notice the serial num looks like could be first one.lol I don't know but check it out.

That has the later style extension housing so it's definitely a later production run. Snow here too. :icon_frown:
 
Make sure you know where your tail shaft was with your original tranny for comparison. I put a TKO 600 in mine (rear shifter location milled to fit the B Body like yours) and the tranny bracket supplied by Keisler lowered the tranny so much my exhaust and Shaker scoop would no longer fit. There was no way of getting the tail shaft where it belonged without cutting the cross member so I hope yours is different (it does look like more has been milled). I sold it and bought a Viper tranny (if your gonna cut it might as well be worth it).

- - - Updated - - -

Welcome aboard overdrives!
 
Making progress

I was able to get tear down completed. I took a few measurements.I do have to make a cut in tunnel for shifter.It should be minimal and looks as though console will work.Here are some pics showing shifter location and removal.

- - - Updated - - -

I removed z-bar and clutch linkage. I used a die grinder to remove pin thru clutch pedal.Installed the new linkage to depress cylinder. I drilled 3 hole for mounting The wilwood cylinder. I few pics of old set up vs new.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    126.8 KB · Views: 376
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    150.6 KB · Views: 379
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    60.8 KB · Views: 376
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    51.7 KB · Views: 391
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    166.7 KB · Views: 365
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    92.6 KB · Views: 369
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    163.3 KB · Views: 378
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    170.6 KB · Views: 370
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    153.4 KB · Views: 376
It sure looks and sounds like you have it under control, Thanks for posting, it will help others im sure and i may think of doing it myself one day, i am old fashion i guess but i have to keep up with you younger guys.... All the best to you bud!!! :)
 
Hydraulic clutch setup

Was able get a few hours in the shop today, started by installing the fluid reservoir and new speedo cable.Located or checked runout on the new bell housing was .006 . From 0 needle moves to -2 +4 one rotation. Then I had to commit to the new flywheel.Stock heavy steel, I almost put old one back on. I hope it wasn't balanced?We will see.New pilot bearing.Then new clutch.looks like clutch was made on Friday afternoon. See pic flywheel side.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    141.8 KB · Views: 308
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    137 KB · Views: 312
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    122.9 KB · Views: 315
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    134 KB · Views: 314
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    151.1 KB · Views: 309
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    170.2 KB · Views: 312
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    150.6 KB · Views: 313
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    136 KB · Views: 309
Last edited:
I look forward to the day im doing all this!!! Hope it all works out great for you!!!
 
Hydraulic Clutch -throw out bearing

Torqued every thing to spec. then measured throw out bearing cushion .Using a straight edge , I measured from clutch tooth - to face of bell 3 11/ 16. Then measured distance from face of trans to face of throw out bearing (depressed)2 13/16.the difference is more than 3/8 you must put spacers behind the throw out bearing if it's less than 1/8 inch you have to put a spacer between trans and bell housing. Mine looks like I need to put spacers behind throw out bearing. See pics
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    139.6 KB · Views: 304
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    131.3 KB · Views: 294
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    142 KB · Views: 299
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    170.2 KB · Views: 307
Last edited:
Ice falling today.All day to work on my project,but I hit a road block.I've added 2 shims behind throw out bearing. It still does not put me within spec.I should contact SST monday to see if they have a fix for me. If I install it like it is, I may not be able to push clutch in far enough to disengage. Any one have any suggestions?:argue:
 
Few pics to compare measurement of A-833 and 5sp

Looks like RS600 is about 2inches shorter.Shifter seems to be same distance from face of trans.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    169.6 KB · Views: 309
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    143.1 KB · Views: 304
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    126.2 KB · Views: 310
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    134.9 KB · Views: 308
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    133.5 KB · Views: 310
I contacted Silver Sport Transmissions Monday morning.They were really helpful. Answered all my questions. I ordered a 3rd spacer for throw out bearing . I should get it in a couple days and can get back to work.My Thanks to the guys at SST.
 
Looks like your moving right along, can't wait to see the finished product and see how you like it.
 
The Good thing about this setup -

:happy11: The spacer for Throwout bearing showed up in just 2days.After work had time to put it together.With 3 spacers underneath Throw out bearing now was within spec.Next bolted trans to bellhousing.I usually bolt bell to motor then slide trans in but this set up Won't allow .its a tite fit. Had to run bolts up little at a time. Then ran hydraulic hose trough bell with bleeder pointed down.Then connected to the bearing inside bell.Mounted block off plate.Going good so far.:icon_surprised:image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

:violent-smiley-101:Trans is together,Time to cut out the hole in tunnel for shifter . Measure twice!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    132 KB · Views: 272
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    138.2 KB · Views: 265
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    128.6 KB · Views: 268
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    45.8 KB · Views: 269
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    51.9 KB · Views: 267
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    125 KB · Views: 260
The Good- Just Do it!

:eusa_whistle:Hole is cut so now I used a Floor jack and piece of wood to jack the front on motor up about an inch or so.That tilled it down so bell would clear tunnel and allow input shaft into clutch. No transmission jack,No room for homemade guide pins,just pick it up and man handle it into place.slid right in after a wiggle or two. Put the bolts in. Now moved jack underneath trans. Best news here is atleast hole for shifter looks right.see pic :hello2:

- - - Updated - - -

:iamwithstupid:Now for the Bad! I new when I saw this kit the Shifter handle didn't look right for a B Body. It looks like the shifter for a 70 Cuda. If I try to mount it the handle is contacting the Dash in neutral.Can't move it without hitting the dash.the biggest appeal of a stick shift B Body to me is the long crooked shifter. Be it pistol grip or 69 handle. I even tried the original 70 shifter. Anyone got suggestions ?As you can see -This ain't gonna fly!image.jpg
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    140.2 KB · Views: 263
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    122.9 KB · Views: 248
If you'll never see the bottom bend you could just heat it up and pull the shifter to you?
 
I haven't had a chance to even think about the shifter problem.Issues underneath just getting started��
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top