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Buying a '68 Charger - What to look for

dfrazz

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Hey guys,
I am going to go look at a '68 Charger to buy. The guys says it's a good driver quality car, not numbers matching, originally a 318 now a rebuilt 440, new interior, but could you a good paint job. I have restored a couple of e-bodies but not a b-body so I am hoping you can tell me some things to look for when evaluating the condition of this car. Thanks!
 
I like that it hasn't been painted. Pics or a link for us to ogle? Or are you afraid someone else will want to buy it too? Anyway without fresh paint it's easier to find rust of course. You say you've restored some e-bodies, so I don't have to tell you stuff like that. What kind of tips are you looking for? Look for evidence of collision: warped panels, bad body fitment, oddly worn tires (alignment issues), etc. Make sure the frame rails are good. I can probably bet that the trunk floor needs replacing (mine does). Look at the passenger floor boards for rust through. These chargers often have rust in the rear window tray and behind the rear wheels. Seat covers are easy to throw on. What's the headliner like? Do the gages all work? How does it drive, how does it shift, how does it sound? What doesn't work? Is there a carburetor bog anywhere/at all? Standard stuff really.
 
Thanks verdelaw. I'll post pics when I go see the car, waiting for more of the snow to melt here. It sounds like most of the same things e-bodies are known for as far as rust areas. Since this would be my first b-body I wasn't sure if there are other specific things to look out for, but this helps.
 
It's a crap shoot. What do you want to do with the car, how far are you willing to go? Do you have $50,000.00 to do this car right? There will be rotted *** end, you will need qtrs, trunk pan, outer wheelhouses, trunk drop off, tail panel, perhaps Roof skin too, and, if you're lucky the underlying Roof structure will be workable -- but I promise you it will need work. Every Charger I blast has these issues, every single one. And, if it was a Vinyl top, plan on all these being bad, and far worse if it's Vinyl.
 
Mine had rust on the frame rails behind the front tires. There's a pocket where the upper control arm sits that water must collect in. From there it rusts the top of the rail. It's hard to see if you aren't looking for it. Also if the engine bay splash shields are missing or the master had a leak, the front rails may rust there as well. Mine had an easily fixable spot.

Much like the e bodies, the bottom corners of the windows are prone to rust, particularly the buttresses in the rear.

Dash parts (Tach, speedo, etc) seem to be more expensive than the E counterparts and they are a lot harder to service in my opinion (have to pull the dash to do any work). It's worth check that they work (especially a tic toc tach which will run you $350 for a repop).

The grille is critical. Classic is supposedly coming out with replacements in a month or so but they are around $1k. Originals go for more. The vacuum system for the doors should be checked as well. Kits for the conversion to electric are around $400. Replacement hoses, switch, vac pods, vac can will all add up as well.

Otherwise it's standard stuff, look for leaks, worn hoses, belts, suspension parts. And as a mopar, trunk floor, doglegs, bottom of doors, rockers tend to rust.
 
Give a call if you need info on these cars, I also have lots of parts,
516 236 8700
Sal
 
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