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Auto tank drain

ws27

ws27

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I started looking at auto tank drains for my compressor and simply got overwhelmed (that might be an extreme desc.), but I thought I'd ask what others here are using. I'm not afraid of buying quality since this is something rather important. It seems I clearly cannot be responsible enough to drain it regularly.

Do they have to be piped right on the tank or are they piped remotely? Timer better than mechanical?

I'd really appreciate your thoughts and experiences.

Thanks Rich
 
My auto drain failed after about 2 years light use. I have 90 degree drain valves mounted on all my compressors, most are setup to drain to the outside. Reminder is written on garage service door, including to turn off the air lines when I leave.
 
I turn off the compressor, close the air line, and then a quick turn of the ball-valve to blow the water outside. The more you do it, it becomes habit.
 
Do you remember what manufacturer was the one that failed?

Thanks for the suggestions, but I keep forgetting to drain it because it is so remote.

I was hoping someone had a good experience with one.
 
Ours failed too after a short while...heres what i did but I have a separte room outside my garage with a gravel floor...and you can see I just drained it IMG_20150307_212914_766.jpg
 
I just installed an auto drain last week. I don't know why I put it off for so long. I got a mechanical one called "Moisture Minder" made by Suburban Manufacturing and sold by Rite Air products out of Texas. It plumbs out of the bottom of the tank and is actuated by also plumbing into the unloader line (the small copper line that runs from the pressure switch). It drains water every time the compressor cycles. So far it works great and no more forgetting to do it or having to get down on my knees to do it. Another nice thing is that it requires no electricity to operate. A very neat design that is easy to install. You can check it out on You Tube and I bought mine by finding it on E-bay. $72.00. I got the needed fittings at the hardware store instead of buying the install kit.
 
We use auto tank drains at work. Pushing an obscene amount of CFM at 140PSI ( 22 Mfg. plants w/150 to 200 HP screw compressors and dryers). We have found on the small piston compressors, used in maint. and some of the small support plants, a ball valve works better as a function of nightly shut down. I don't know if it's a "cycle frequency" thing or the maint. guys just don't think it's worth the money. I also use a ball valve on my home shop compressor.

- - - Updated - - -

Just checked with Jim (head of maint.) Here is his exact response: "They are timed, and made by Dayton. We have had trouble with the sensor ones."

Hope this help with your decision..
 
I have a 7.5 HP dual stage 80gal Ingersol Rand with the auto drain on it. I have it set for 6sec drain every 45 min. Still in service after 15 yrs. Only problem is that when it is extremely cold, I have to disable it because it will freeze open. This because I have the unit on the outside of the rear wall of the shop in an insulated shed for noise abatement. The air comes into the shop through the rear wall, then goes to two spare 60 gal tanks that are Siamesed together for more volume.So I have 200 gal of volume. 90 CFM@140 lbs. Just happened to have the extra tanks , so I thought it would be a good idea to use them. I do have manual drains on the two inside tanks. But recently I made extensions and angles to make them much easier to drain. I drain them one a week or so.
 
The unit that failed was bought in the mid-eighties, so no I do not know what brand it was. Whatever brand it was is now in it's 5th generation of design by now.

edit: The best drain setup that I had ever seen was using manual drain valves 90 degree type mounted next to the water fountain. It would get drained by people waiting in line, Waco Texas. That system was so badly designed and installed that the draining was the only way to keep up with the water in the lines. I did install a cracked water drain bowl that would leak out most of the water from one hose pickup, till it would clog up the crack.
 
I worked as a commercial diver in the Gulf of Mexico for many years and the preferred method to drain tanks of moisture was the man walking around with the assigned job of cracking the valves open at the tank bottom at a certain time of the day. Second method was to crack the bottom drain valve ever so slightly and just let it go continuously, self draining so to speak. I still use this method on my shop tank, no issues and going on 11 years this way. Gizmos break.
 
Thanks guys, I think I'll just have to figure out how to be more responsible. I do agree that gizmos break and more gizmos in life add more complications. I'll just try to make the valve easier to get at.

Rich.
 
I keep mine cracked just a hair so it always drains moisture. I turn my compressor off every time I leave the shop so it won't bleed of air and turn on.
 
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