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disc brake conversion question

G

Glew

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I have manual drums on all 4'sides of my 68 roadrunner. I bought the 4 wheel manual disc brake kit from summit along with a wildwood adjustable prop valve. Do I also need to buy a master cylinder too? Before anyone says anything about how my car sits my shocks are gone in the back haha PicsArt_1427661035593~2.jpg
 
you need a MC that is setup for discs all around, if you have the standard one for drums it will not work is what I have been told
 
For sure get the correct M/C, and you would be crazy to not go a power booster too - unless you'd like to really build the muscles in your leg and still not pull up well.

Drooping rear is not due to shockers but sagged springs, shockers don't hold up any weight, they just stop the bouncing (except in the case of air shockers, and don't get me started on those.) I would wind the front down a little and say it's a low rider...
 
you will be better off with a new one with a large capacity. I had to do mine when I converted it.
 
Yeah air shocks are horrible imo. That's what is on there now because the previous owner put them on. I bought some bilstein shocks to put on, guess I'll need to get new leaf springs too
 
factory drum masters can have residual vales in them,def change to an all disc master.
 
I would definitely add a bendix booster and new master, not rebuilt.

This will set you back a couple hundred but makes all the difference in hi speed panic stops....you can apply the brakes with one finger vs both feet with a manual set up. With the power booster and disc brakes, once you get the proportioning valve adjusted right...you can stop as good as that jap car in front of you on the hiway.....
 
yep, change the m/c for 4 wheel disc. easy enough to go power brakes at that point also.
you can adjust torsion bar height in front. looks like you pulled the hemi out!
 
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