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Torsion bar selection

d fark

d fark

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We are getting things together to drop the 440 into my 73 Satellite. It is 318 car. Need to rebuild front suspension anyway and thinking I should go to heavier torsion bars. Mine are roughly 7/8" diameter. Front end seems saggy even with the small block. What size bars would you recommend for a street, strip, weekend driver? Like I said it will have a 440/727. Thank you all.
 
Here is a chart that shows what Plymouth put into the car lines....notice your carline is "R" and there was a 440 so I would put
one that is in the "R" column...like a .94 decimal which is close to a 15/16 inch diameter bar.

vbpgimage.php
 
Last edited:
if you want a cheap bar buy the 1" ones from pst, which is the lowest that anyone should go anymore. Me personally If that's what your doing with the car, I would go for the larger 1.2-1.4 bars, but to go tho these bars you'll need a decent shock like bilsteins minimum to get the most of your handling. you can pick these up over at firmfeel. http://www.firmfeel.com/b_body_mopar_parts.html
 
dangina said:
if you want a cheap bar buy the 1" ones from pst, which is the lowest that anyone should go anymore. Me personally If that's what your doing with the car, I would go for the larger 1.2-1.4 bars, but to go tho these bars you'll need a decent shock like bilsteins minimum to get the most of your handling. you can pick these up over at firmfeel. http://www.firmfeel.com/b_body_mopar_parts.html
Click to expand...

1" minimum may be true for the PST bars, but the diameter is only one of the factors determining spring rate. For Mopar OEM T bars the diameter is how they are identified, given consistency in other factors. Best to compare spring rates. A stronger rate spring would be needed to compensate for the added weight of the 440.
 
I replaced the .92 bars in both my Road Runner and Charger with Mopar .96" models and have been happy with them. I bought one set through my local Chrysler dealer and the second set came from Jegs. They were the cheapest from each place when I was buying.
 
The chart above, which is very incorrect, shows 62-72 B-bodies which take the 41" long bars. 73-8 B-bodies take the 43" long bars. Yes they put 440's in B-bodies and 62-72 took the .92" bars. 73-4 B with 318 had a .92 or .94 bar cause they have a heavier front end. 73-4 B with a 440 had either a .94, .96 or .98 bar. I'd at least run a 1" bar if not a 1.06.
Also the factory never made a .94 bar for 62-72 B-bodies
 
So you can still get Mopar bars through your local Chrysler dealer?
 
Yep, same mp # as everybody else sells.
 
I put 1.06's in my 73 RR with a 340, also Bilstein shocks, its pretty firm!

A note if you do Bilstein shocks on a 73 RR or Satellite, you will have to widen the opening on the lower control arm to accommodate the wider shocks, its not much, about 1/8 inch around the opening.
 
Spring rate is definitely a better way to go so that you can compare different manufacturers. I got a set of 1.14's in a parts car and the car still has the 318 currently before the small block swap, and they are pretty firm, it does handle well which is more what I was going for. I would suggest smaller if its going to be used for what you stated.
 
Front end seems saggy even with the small block you say. Is the front end too low to your liking or does it seem to be too soft and going up and down too much?
 
I'm running 1.06" T bars from FF to my 74 BB. I think could go with 1" and was to be same happy too.

HONESTLY, a fresh 1" bar will be enough.
 
Cranky said:
Front end seems saggy even with the small block you say. Is the front end too low to your liking or does it seem to be too soft and going up and down too much?
Click to expand...
The car just seems soft and wallowy?(is that a word?) up front. The front end does seem low to me, but I only have 14" tires up front. I'm just concerned about the added weight of the 440 is going to make it handle even worse than it does now.
 
the more lower ride height you want, the thicker T bar will make harder to get it.

WHY ? because a low ride will require loose the T bar bolt. This will make softer the spring rate.

That's why I think whould get 1" instead 1.06". I'm running a slightly lower ride height than stock and I allmost feel my spring rate ALLMOST like a stock bar, PLUS it's scary view to look down the car and see the adjusting bolt all threated out!!!
 
Nacho, makes a good point, and glad to hear someone else say their adjusting bolts are almost all the way out, and that is where mine are as well with the 1.06's! There would be no way for me to lower the front of my car, not that I want to, but it wont happen for me, but it sits level with the back which is what I wanted.
 
I got 1" spacers on rear, which I think will remove soon. Rear springs got me really high my car on rear when I installed new, now 12 years later is a bit lower. This will make me to get torsion on bars threating in the bolts to level it up back, and get a higher spring rate from them
 
In the list above "carline" what do the letter codes refer to ?, like I have a 73 satellite wagon, a station wagon shows under 3 columns (R and W .92) (P and D .94) (C .96)
also the R&W shows 43.6" long and the other two are 44 inches. ??? Everything I see for sale only show 41 inch long bars ???

I think my bars are suppose to be 44 inches long ? not sure.

also, if I put 2 inch lower spindles, and lower the car another 1/2 to 3/4 inch would I even need to upsize the bars ?

anyone used Helix Suspension brand, 2 inch drop spindles?
 
This is the info for the VIN for a 1973. The first position is the carline:

vbpgimage.php
 
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