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Remove 4-spd transmission

You're overthinking it. A helper helps, but you just need a big floor jack towards the mid-back of the main case. Light pressure on the tranny. Slide it out slowly. Once the main shaft it free of the clutch/TOB start sliding the jack back and make sure the tranny is balanced. Start lowering the jack. I always let the oil pan hang on the drag link, it won't hurt it, but may dent your pan a little. Mines already dented from going in and out a few times. Just don't leave the engine resting on the drag link for too long. The pad should not be in the way on a B body though, you need to get the engine lower. If you take your pins out the tranny will start to drop as its coming out of the clutch. You want this.

It will probably be difficult to get the mounting pad off they're a PITA. Often need someone to hammer them with a punch with counter-clockwise pressure while you try to free them with the allen key. Use some PB blaster or similar on them too.
 
Daves69 said:
Oil pan resting on the drag link? Might need to drop it.
Shorten those pins and round the off the ends. 2" will allow the input shaft clear the crank flange and spline from the disc I believe.
Looks like someone failed to get the bolts out of the adapter before. May have to drill the heads off.
Click to expand...

Its close but its not resting on it, I've raised it a bit...

Thanks for the tips I´ll shorten those pins!

The bolts... Yeah something like that.. I worked those screws for 2,5 hours yesterday...
Tried everything I could, the first two I got out by hammer in a torx bits, that did it,
But the last one I had to drill o hole into, and then give it a good tap with the hammer, before jamming
a torx bits into it, finally it gave in:)
IMG_1367.jpg
Now I can proceed with removing the transmission! hopefully this weekend:hello2:

- - - Updated - - -

furyus said:
Getting your engine angled down more is way easier than fighting those Allen bolts.
Click to expand...

I didn't want to remove the drag link..anyways the bolt are gone now..
/L
 
Yes, those little Allen head countersunk bolts can be a real PITA. You can probably get new ones from your local hardware store.
 
Finally got it out,
IMG_1375.JPG
next is the clutch housing, to be able to get to the clutch,
and to do that I need to remove the starter... and so on
IMG_1377.JPG
 
Thanks for the idea of the board and straps---Why didn't I think of that??..................................MO
 
Hi reusing this thread..
The clutch change is moving on..
Next "problem"
Putting the clutch cover on, and I get this;
IMG_1452.JPG
the diaphram fingers keps getting out of center,
is it cause the cover isn´t fully torqued down? will it level out..? What should i do?
I think this happened cause my socket didn´t fit on the cover bolts, so i had to use box wrench on some, and ratchet on some..not ideal

/Linus
 
Not sure because of the angle of the picture. Are you using the clutch disc alighnment tool to center it? Does the tool fit into the pilot bearing without to much or two little clearance? Got all the clutch cover bolts in the correct holes and tightening each one a little at a time ? with all the cover bolts tightened evenly, the tool should slide back out without binding.........................MO.
 
Cornpatch MO said:
Not sure because of the angle of the picture. Are you using the clutch disc alighnment tool to center it? Does the tool fit into the pilot bearing without to much or two little clearance? Got all the clutch cover bolts in the correct holes and tightening each one a little at a time ? with all the cover bolts tightened evenly, the tool should slide back out without binding.........................MO.
Click to expand...

yes I used the alignment tool, no problem moving in and out..
maybe its just the "weights" on the ring that has moved a bit, I'm not sure how this works, with the weights..
 
ok so now i´m putting it all together again, it all went fine until the transmission was going in..!
I´ve used an alignment tool when installing the clutch,
I use guide pins to locate the trans against the bellhousing,
I positioned the trans in about the same angel as when I removed it, try to stab it in, wont go in there,

I´ve rotated the trans to get the splines to line up, but no, something´s wrong, it wont go in!
Very frustrating!!

I´m i missing something? Is there a trick to do this,
I meen i used the aligning tool so it should align, or could you use it wrong..?

/Linus
 
By chance did you try the new clutch disc. on the transmission imput shaft before installing the clutch assy. to make sure it fit it and slid free on the shaft?

How far in are you getting the the imput shaft to go in the disc?
 
Hi. Yes tried the disk in the trans before installation,
How far..kinda hard to see, I don't know if it is the splines or the pilot bushing that's stopping,
probably the plines..I can take a picture later..
I figure if you make it through the splines you have a good chance to hit the pilot bushing..

Should I do the whole "disk aligning thing" over again, would it make any difference, it a real pita, taking it all apart, again...:eusa_doh:


/Linus
 
Get 2 bolts that have the same threads as the bolts that hold the trans to the bell housing, cut the heads off, thread them into the 2 bottom holes of the bell housing. These will help guide the trans back in and you should be golden.
 
QUOTE=5.7 hemi;910252820]Get 2 bolts that have the same threads as the bolts that hold the trans to the bell housing, cut the heads off, thread them into the 2 bottom holes of the bell housing. These will help guide the trans back in and you should be golden.[/QUOTE]

Hi 5.7 Hemi
yes I did that, used guide pins to remove the trans, worked perfekt!
But now trying to get it back, using the same method, I have no luck:(
IMG_1363.JPG
I have rotated the spline several times as well..


Linus
 

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by some coincidence I'm going through my trans. right now. the answer to the countersunk shifter pad screws is a small Oxy Acetylene tip heat up around the screws and they will come out like butter. put some sheet metal above the trans to deflect any heat from getting to your carpet through the shifter hole.
while trying to stab the trans in to the bell housing have someone slightly depress the clutch pedal while you position the transmission.

Here are some pictures, I couldn't find any when I was looking.If anyone cares.

Wk7bGgX.jpg

w70UIO5.jpg

VOtpjBB.jpg

nxvDdzr.jpg

uPvJW2L.jpg

SSIt2K8.jpg
 
D575 said:
by some coincidence I'm going through my trans. right now. the answer to the countersunk shifter pad screws is a small Oxy Acetylene tip heat up around the screws and they will come out like butter. put some sheet metal above the trans to deflect any heat from getting to your carpet through the shifter hole.
while trying to stab the trans in to the bell housing have someone slightly depress the clutch pedal while you position the transmission.

Here are some pictures, I couldn't find any when I was looking.If anyone cares.

Hi there D575, how would depressing the clutch pedal make the stabbing easier? asking cause I don't know:)

/Linus
Click to expand...
 
rr70 said:
D575 said:
by some coincidence I'm going through my trans. right now. the answer to the countersunk shifter pad screws is a small Oxy Acetylene tip heat up around the screws and they will come out like butter. put some sheet metal above the trans to deflect any heat from getting to your carpet through the shifter hole.
while trying to stab the trans in to the bell housing have someone slightly depress the clutch pedal while you position the transmission.

Here are some pictures, I couldn't find any when I was looking.If anyone cares.

Hi there D575, how would depressing the clutch pedal make the stabbing easier? asking cause I don't know:)

/Linus
Click to expand...

It allows the disk to float , Be sure you have the input shaft started in it though. Might have to put it in gear and turn the output shaft while doing it. I'm not too good at explaining things in writing , maybe someone else can make it . make sense.. :sideways tongue:
Click to expand...
 
Tried again this evening, still cant get the input shaft into the disk/pilot bearing,
I took the trans down again to have a look, everything look good as far as I know,
IMG_1492.JPG
looks like it should be fine, I cant understand whats the problem,
the angel cant be that far of as I´m using guide pins to guide the trans into position..

Is my "trans jack" not good enought to position the trans, shouldnt matter though since I use the guide pins..
IMG_1375.JPG


I havent tried the "depress the clutch" method yet, sounds a bit risky, what if it doesent work, wont you be
forced to remove the clutch to do the aligning all over..If the disk "fall" out of place i mean..
Dont know what to do..


/Linus
 

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