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Is this a steel crank?

daytona kid

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I'll save it if it is steel but taking it to the scrap metal yard if not. Would there be a good reason to save a used cast crank?
 

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Yes, it is steel. You should save all cranks if they are good. Even bad ones can be welded and reground.
 
Yes it is ,now to teach you something look at your picture you see the hole drilled in to the "weights" look around there will be others drilled also ,this is done to weight/ balance the steel cranks . The other style will not have these reliefs they just have dampers stick on them instead . Hopefully this learned you for next time .Good luck
 
For storage, stand it up and protect the bearing surfaces from nicks.
 
Hold it off the ground, and tap it with a piece of steel.

Just a thud, cast...ring like a church bell, steel.
 
Yes it is ,now to teach you something look at your picture you see the hole drilled in to the "weights" look around there will be others drilled also ,this is done to weight/ balance the steel cranks . The other style will not have these reliefs they just have dampers stick on them instead . Hopefully this learned you for next time .Good luck


Incorrect. ALL cranks are drilled to balance the rotating assy. The most notable difference is on the counterweight. If there is a wide parting line, it is forged. If the parting line is a narrow line, it is a cast crank. The forged cranks will ring too as Miller said.

View attachment 256187
 
I'll save it if it is steel but taking it to the scrap metal yard if not. Would there be a good reason to save a used cast crank?

I can't really see in that photo the parting/casting lines/forged lines
{on my screen anyway}

BUT color alone it looks like it could be a cast crank to me,
unless maybe it was nitrite treated {making it a nitrited forged crank}
makes them darker in color too

Also looks like a sharp casting line on the middle of the front journal support structure
{far right in photo}
It's hard to see any details really

BUT usually the forged crankshafts are much lighter in color,
than the cast cranks too...
Also it's hard to see/tell but that looks like sharp edges on the counterweights too,
possibly indicative of a Cast crank

Like I said
It's hard to tell by that photo
It's probably a forging, I'm just pointing out stuff,
I just can't see it clearly !!


I believe all BB cranks, even cast cranks had lightening/balancing holes drilled in them
or notched into them too, I maybe wrong...LOL

but yes the cast crank uses a different style dampener

I maybe completely wrong, it's hard to actually see the details

a better detailed photo would help me be sure, to tell you for 100% sure

sorry for any confussion
 
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My apologies ,I stand corrected guess not everything I was told in the past was correct. Thank you for clarifying that ,I've learned something today
 
One thing I forgot, about the ringing bit...

If a forged crank is cracked, ring isn't the same, if at all.
 
One thing I forgot, about the ringing bit...

If a forged crank is cracked, ring isn't the same, if at all.

We used the "ring" or tuning fork test as the quick, easy test when sorting through used parts as a primary selector in addition to the quick dial caliper size check. Be sure all the bolts (flywheel & balancer) are removed. We'd always do this before sending to get mag'd & at end of season teardowns. If the steel crank doesn't ring like a tuning fork, be concerned.
 
tap it with a piece of steel.

Just a thud, cast...ring like a church bell, steel.

Not quite... cast cranks ring too... If they thud or don't cary the high pitch of the ring then they are cracked. If you are not sure send it out to get magnafluxed... but I have seen cranks that mag ok but don't ring.... that I did not run...
 
I just checked out the 440source.com web site telling about Harmonic Dampners.
The cast cranks use a different dampner than the forged cranks. I you still have the dampner you can tell by that.
 
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