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Air Shocks or Rear End Lifts

GetX'd

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Hey guys the GTX is nearly finished. The paint is being sprayed as we speak. I've got another problem that has been nagging me. I bought new cragars and with the L60 tires they're a hair to big to fit in the wheel wells. Back in the day I used air shocks to get around that problem - what is used these days? I talked to Summit and they said no one uses air shocks any longer - but didn't have a solution. I don't want/can't screw with the wheel wells so wondering what another option would be.

If if its air shocks - where do you get those these days and what brands are the best? This has been a long ordeal because I had to switch back to drum brakes in the back - off the new discs I had bought. No need to get into all that.

Any one have suggestions?
 
I'd sell the tires and get something that fits. However, I really thought a 10 1/2 inch tire would have worked in there. Do they rub on the inside or near the lip?
 
They rub near the lip. I'm frustrated because back in the day I always ran L60s with 8" x 15" deep dish. What could have changed? I took off the discs de cause they ate up an 1" I didn't have to give. Back to drums - should be the same except have the lift of the air shocks.
 
Maybe find a different offset on the wheel? I've heard a lot of talk that with air shocks, the weight of the car is being put on the shock mounts, instead of the springs where it belongs.
 
air shocks

I have had cars over the years, that have used air shocks, they always did the job of lifting the rear for tire clearance. Just don't see them anymore, i'm sure everyone over 40 recalls the "Hi-Jackers " air shocks decals that were included when you bought them?
 
Stay away from air-shocks for long term usage. You're better off sorting out the wheel offset, or replacing the leaf springs if necessary to give the extra lift. Shock absorbers are for exactly that - absorbing the shock and smoothing the ride, not for jacking up the rear end artificially. :icon_thumright:
 
I have used air shocks for years and never had an issue. I just recently bought a brand new pair.
 
You can get the existing springs re-arched for a bit of lift. Can also get springs from ESPO or Eaton with the extra 1" or 2" built in.
Can you do a minor roll on the lip to get some clearance?
 
I have used air shocks for years and never had an issue. I just recently bought a brand new pair.
Where did you find them?

Hey guys the GTX is nearly finished. The paint is being sprayed as we speak. I've got another problem that has been nagging me. I bought new cragars and with the L60 tires they're a hair to big to fit in the wheel wells. Back in the day I used air shocks to get around that problem - what is used these days? I talked to Summit and they said no one uses air shocks any longer - but didn't have a solution. I don't want/can't screw with the wheel wells so wondering what another option would be.

If if its air shocks - where do you get those these days and what brands are the best? This has been a long ordeal because I had to switch back to drum brakes in the back - off the new discs I had bought. No need to get into all that.

Any one have suggestions?
I've used air shocks for various reasons over the years too (since the 1970) and never had an issue but yeah, shocks are for dampening the spring and not for lifting the car. With that said, there are some pretty high stresses placed on the shock mount cross member even with regular shocks, however, if you lift your car more than 1- 1 1/2", you will be putting even more stress on the cross member. Inspect your cross member to make sure it's welded in good and is not rusted. If it's in there like it should be, it should hold up fine with no more lift than what I mentioned. How bad are they rubbing?
 
image.jpgThese are 295-50 15's on 8 inch stock rims. A single leaf from Summit inserted on each side. Bilstein Mopar-tuned shocks from Hotchkiss. Gave about a one inch lift. The 295's fit before the lift.
 
I have air shocks and much stiffer springs in the back. The original springs to the new (I believe they are big block. 5 leaf springs) gave me about 2 inches. Then i installed the airshocks and pump them to about 40 PSI (everyone I spoke to said, as long as you are under 40 psi, you don't have to worry about bending your shock mounts.) I gained about 6 inches total in the back. 4 with the original springs. Looks good, lots of clearance too. Prior to the air shocks my car looked slammed, i had the tires up in the wheel well. I didn't like it cause after bumps it would hit the inner fender.

Look at the coiled shocks in the back. Haven't ever used them, but a lot of people are to lift their back end.
 
Where did you find them?

I've used air shocks for various reasons over the years too (since the 1970) and never had an issue but yeah, shocks are for dampening the spring and not for lifting the car. With that said, there are some pretty high stresses placed on the shock mount cross member even with regular shocks, however, if you lift your car more than 1- 1 1/2", you will be putting even more stress on the cross member. Inspect your cross member to make sure it's welded in good and is not rusted. If it's in there like it should be, it should hold up fine with no more lift than what I mentioned. How bad are they rubbing?
I bought mine from summit I think they were about 75 bucks. They are for a dodge van
 
I have just picked up a load of 77 sets of N.O.S. MONROE Air Shocks and there are 15 sets of "B" and "E" body Rear Air Shocks .... 3 are
reserved for 2 of my friends (1 buying 2 sets); the other 12 sets are available -- and however many I have left by that time, I will be bringing with me to Chryslers @ Carlisle.....
 
I have air shocks and much stiffer springs in the back. The original springs to the new (I believe they are big block. 5 leaf springs) gave me about 2 inches. Then i installed the airshocks and pump them to about 40 PSI (everyone I spoke to said, as long as you are under 40 psi, you don't have to worry about bending your shock mounts.) I gained about 6 inches total in the back. 4 with the original springs. Looks good, lots of clearance too. Prior to the air shocks my car looked slammed, i had the tires up in the wheel well. I didn't like it cause after bumps it would hit the inner fender.

Look at the coiled shocks in the back. Haven't ever used them, but a lot of people are to lift their back end.
Got a pic of it? Even with worn out flat rear springs, the rear usually won't sag more than 1 - 1 1/2" below stock height. A Mopar with even a 4" higher rear will mess up the front end alignment and pretty much get rid of any caster adjustment you have not to mention the extra loading it places on the front end.

- - - Updated - - -

Where did you buy your new air shocks and what brand are they?
He said Summit and are for a Dodge Van. Many parts like that will cross over.
 
I have just picked up a load of 77 sets of N.O.S. MONROE Air Shocks and there are 15 sets of "B" and "E" body Rear Air Shocks .... 3 are
reserved for 2 of my friends (1 buying 2 sets); the other 12 sets are available -- and however many I have left by that time, I will be bringing with me to Chryslers @ Carlisle.....

And where might I ask did you purchase these monroes? Would they fit a 68 GTX b body? I'm getting desperate for a solution to my problem. Thx!
 
I'm curious. Has anybody personally had experience with air shocks breaking the support, on a "non" rusted / corroded floor ?
 
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