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Torqueflite shifting way too early

Griffsyj

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I just got my coronet going down the road yesterday. The motor is finally running great. I had some issues with ignition module not being grounded well....anyways..I bought this car with a rebuilt trans that had a "shift kit" installed. It shifts HARD just cruising around, but shifts smoothly when you stab the go pedal. The problem is, it's that no matter how much throttle input you give, the transmission shifts around 2200rpm for 1-2, and 23-2400 for 2-3. How can I raise the shift points on this thing?
 
You need to adjust the kickdown linkage. This is what provides the input as to when to shift.

Disconnect the kickdown linkage at the carburator and 'pop off' the linkage going down to the trans at the linkage pivot point (where it goes from horizontal to vertical at the rear of intake manifold). Insert a drill bit through the holes on the pivot point. This 'pins' it as a starting point.

The linkage coming up from the ltransmission can be adjusted (if needed) so that it snaps back onto 'the ball' of the pivot without pushing down or pulling up on it to get it re-attached.

Next, adjust the 'slide' that goes onto the carb...in or out (in your case it will likely need to be adjusted out)...as needed to get the back of the slot against the carb input lever when you re-attached it.

Remove the drill bit and test drive. If you still would like a higher rpm shift point, adjust the 'slide' further out until it shifts where you want.

Note: if you have changed carbs (2 to 4 bbl) or stock intake to high rise, you have altered the original geometry and may have to play with it more.

Hope this helps!
 
Last edited:
Yeah the previous owner put a torker intake and Holley 750 on it. It looks to have a lokar lockdown cable, I just figured it wouldn't be as easy as playing with that. Thanks for the help!
 
I have a Lokar cable on mine, is the kickdown engaged to soon?

Here is the Lokar instructions: Lokar Cable Setup

There is also a hold-down bracket for that setup: Lokar SRK 4000

Good luck!

Here's mine:
Lokar Cables .jpg
 
According to the instructions, it's set up correctly on the carb. I'm not sure what is on the transmission side of the cable yet. My set up doesn't have the springs. I guess he just didn't put them on. I'll have to get up under the car and see what he's got under there. I bought the car like this, and the guy did all the work to it himself...I'm going to be going back through everything and fixing odds and ends.
 
According to the instructions, it's set up correctly on the carb. I'm not sure what is on the transmission side of the cable yet. My set up doesn't have the springs. I guess he just didn't put them on. I'll have to get up under the car and see what he's got under there. I bought the car like this, and the guy did all the work to it himself...I'm going to be going back through everything and fixing odds and ends.

You can disconnect the carb end and see if it moves in (toward the tranny) that would tell you the valve is open too soon.
 
When you disconnect the carb end, it's lined up with where it clips on perfectly. There's no slack, and it doesn't move towards the trans at all
 
When you pull on it does it move back on forth freely? How about tranny fluid, is your fluid level good?
 
Basically you need to raise the throttle pressure some which means you need to shorten the cable a bit. From where you are at I would not even worry about any instructions as I would just shorten the trans throttle pressure (kickdown) cable a little and see how it reacts as it should raise the shift points some. It needs to pull the arm (throttle press/kickdown arm) a bit more down on the trans as you step on the gas. And you have to shorten the cable to do that. Now you also have to check for full throttle when done as many times on aftermarket kickdowns with aftermarket intakes the linkage geometry is not right and the throttle pressure could bottom out before full throttle. It should not but you want to check it anytime you change the kickdown linkage adjustment. Ron
 
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