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Aluminum trim...what do you do??

miller

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Auto is a 64 Sport Fury.

So, of course, plenty of trim pieces, both stainless and aluminum. As luck has it, my side spears are in fairly decent shape, except polishing is needed.
Don't have any problem with stainless, even with all the blasted dents I had to bang out.

My question is on the anodized aluminum trim...all of it. Just guessing it's all anodized.

At least some of my trim pieces, were to put it lightly, caved in at places. Example is both halves of the rear trim 'plates', where at the curves that form around the license plate, were almost flattened. Already have mostly straightened them, but took good hammer/dolly, filing, sanding and such. Also tried the oven off bit...three times! Still have traces of anodizing there, and hand sanding that off.

What do you guys recommend, on a final finish on trim that must have the anodizing stripped?

Sure, I understand re-anodizing would be best. Don't even know if anyone in the area does it. Checking into it.

Do any of you just polish 'em up, and leave it...without re-anodizing?
 
I just polish mine every once in a while. I didn't want to chance the clear coat lifting. Good luck.
 
Keep it polished.Clearcoating is ok,,,,,,,but later down the road the clearcoat starts to deteriate.
 
Polish it and protect it with Sharkhide sold by Eastwood. Google Sharkhide. Its what I used on my 66 Satellite trim and wheels 3 years ago and still looks like new. STH72713.jpg
 
The anodizing can be removed safely and easily with a stripper from Home Depot. It is designed specifically to do this job without hurting you or the part. I'll have to dig it out and see the brand name. Polishing anodized parts that are cloudy is ineffective and does absolutely nothing. You need to strip the part bare and have it re-anodized for the proper factory finish.
 
You could also powder coat it with clear and it will last a long long time...
 
If you want to strip anodizing, you can use heavy duty oven cleaner, works well. All my aluminum trim is not anodized, and I just polish it every time I wax the car.
 
I used paint remover to get down to the original anodize, hand polished and for the 66 bel rattle canned the black pin stripe and used metallic nickel paint in the center strip.WP_20140915_17_58_48_Pro[1].jpgWP_20140928_09_11_55_Pro[1].jpg
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, guys!

One thing I'm trying to keep in mind is dealing with the side trim spears, the ones with swirling in the center. Don't know if there's any kind of coating on that swirl stuff. Only have one small nick on the set, otherwise just nicely faded.

Still dealing with all the blasted dents in the other pieces. Flat unreal how some of this stuff gets beat up.

Understand about the anodizing. Will do some looking.
 
The engine swirling is a sticker and you can get that from Joe Souchy or Kramers.
The dents will take some time, a few beers, newly invented words, and patience.
Never tried paint stripper on the anodizing, but easy off oven cleaner in the YELLOW can will/does the job....trust me!!
Once the aluminum is buffed, not polished as that is not quite the same, the "shiny eye candy" will last longer than if it was polished as when you buff it, the pores in the aluminum group tighter together, your arm or mine, for that matter, cant move that fast. So basically, once buffed, you'll need to polish about 1-2 times a year depending how much time the car is exposed to the outside.
 
The paint remover did not affect the anodize, It removed the striping and overspray form previous paint jobs. After use of the paint stripper I found the center section of the moulding to be shiny and still anodized.
 
The engine swirling is a sticker and you can get that from Joe Souchy or Kramers.
The dents will take some time, a few beers, newly invented words, and patience.
Never tried paint stripper on the anodizing, but easy off oven cleaner in the YELLOW can will/does the job....trust me!!
Once the aluminum is buffed, not polished as that is not quite the same, the "shiny eye candy" will last longer than if it was polished as when you buff it, the pores in the aluminum group tighter together, your arm or mine, for that matter, cant move that fast. So basically, once buffed, you'll need to polish about 1-2 times a year depending how much time the car is exposed to the outside.

You can bank on what Zack says about dealing with trim pieces. He restored mine and they look great!
 

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Eastwood makes a spray on anodized remover.Just spray it on wait 10-15 mins and rinse off with water.Some tough spots you will need to go over with a scotch pad but works great.When dry buff out on buffer and looks better than new!
 
You can bank on what Zack says about dealing with trim pieces. He restored mine and they look great!

Yeah they do!! Looks great!

Appreciate all that, 5.7 hemi. No prob, got the beer part well covered. On my rear trim plates, already did the easy off bit, three times! Still have some anodizing hanging on. Steel wool won't touch it...been sanding the remainder off.
But, unfortunately have other trim I'll be forced to strip too. I'll try easy off again. Irritating one or two places, on otherwise good pieces, no way to get straight without going through the anodizing...and no way to blend it.

Gonna get more BEER! (Like I wouldn't anyway.)
 
Sand the part with 220, then spray the easy off (yellow can) and let it sit. When it turns gray rinse with water (unless you live in California, then use bottled water, lol), Some of that anodizing is on there really good, some not, so when I run into that problem, I sand some then spray the oven cleaner. Don't be afraid to get medieval on it, lol!
 
220? Lol! So that's why my fingers are raw.

Great advice, 5.7 hemi...many thanks. Exactly what I've been doing, including the yellow can stuff. Guess I've been doing what can be done on my beat up stuff.

Medieval, huh? Lol! You'd probably shutter, if you've seen some of the stuff I've used, to get things straightened out.
 
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