How to remove rear window stainless trim
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69roadr
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yes, it "pops" off. you need to get under the trim with a trim tool and gently pry on it. it is stainless steel too, so try not to kink it.
Jeremiah
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Have some one lock you in the trunk and check for light coming in around the gasket. Sometimes you can push enough 3M weatherstripping adhesive in the affected areas to stop the leak.
72Fourspeed
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On some weatherstripping, you can cut a slit in it . Then slip some vacum hose in there to give it some shape. Works on old droopy stuff anyway.
Magnes
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Yeah that trim will unsnap from the trim clips. I use a L shaped pry bar. You want to make sure you only pry right at the clip (locating the clip can be tough since it's covered by the trim and you can't see it... You just have to feel it out). Go easy, find the clip, and pry the trim out. Don't go crazy prying on the edge of the glass, it doesn't take much to bust a tempered back glass if you get right on the edge of it. Stick the short side of the tool under the trim and easily pry back. You might have to wiggle from side to side, but again... EASY.
As far as your problem, lots of guys install the windshield and rear glass using butyl tape. That's a bad idea. When that stuff dries out (and it will) it's going to leak. I'm not saying that's what you have there but if it is, reinstalling the glass using urethane sealant (like what is used on modern cars) will solve the leaking problem for sure for years to come.
I see WAY too many guys trying to stop leaks in the front and back of these old cars using anything from silicone to tub and tile caulk (LOL!). They just try to squirt it in the cracks. That's RARELY going to work and just going to make a mess. It's not hard to pop that trim off, cut the glass out, clean the pinch weld, clean the glass with new razorblades and lots of liquid lubrication. Then (recommended) call a glass company that does auto-glass to come by and run a nice bead of urethane and help you set the glass. It won't cost much. A lot less than a new trunk pan or damaged interior.
You CAN buy the urethane sealant and do it yourself but that stuff likes to be warm when used and auto glass guys will have tubes warming in the truck. They know how to lay the bead right and NOT make a mess while still getting the bead at the right height so that when the glass is set, your trim will be in the right place.
I did glass for over 20 years, just trying to help ya out and give you my $.02
As far as your problem, lots of guys install the windshield and rear glass using butyl tape. That's a bad idea. When that stuff dries out (and it will) it's going to leak. I'm not saying that's what you have there but if it is, reinstalling the glass using urethane sealant (like what is used on modern cars) will solve the leaking problem for sure for years to come.
I see WAY too many guys trying to stop leaks in the front and back of these old cars using anything from silicone to tub and tile caulk (LOL!). They just try to squirt it in the cracks. That's RARELY going to work and just going to make a mess. It's not hard to pop that trim off, cut the glass out, clean the pinch weld, clean the glass with new razorblades and lots of liquid lubrication. Then (recommended) call a glass company that does auto-glass to come by and run a nice bead of urethane and help you set the glass. It won't cost much. A lot less than a new trunk pan or damaged interior.
You CAN buy the urethane sealant and do it yourself but that stuff likes to be warm when used and auto glass guys will have tubes warming in the truck. They know how to lay the bead right and NOT make a mess while still getting the bead at the right height so that when the glass is set, your trim will be in the right place.
I did glass for over 20 years, just trying to help ya out and give you my $.02
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Great advice for everyone here ^^^ :headbang:
Bobo
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my 65 coronet had a leak in the trunk it was the rear window gasket after spending $$$ remove the window new gasket it still leaks (nothing wrong with the one they cut up) i was afraid to let charlies auto glass touch it again i read how to stop the leak on line and used liquid butyl little can with a small finger pump ann stopped the leak my self so far so good when ever i let some one else do always goes south and i have had some $$$ costly mistakes done by local shops hope you can get it done the first time
65hemi
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There is a tool specifically for removing the trim. Slide it under the trim at the clip location and pry the clip to release the trim. Careful not to bend the trim. Also protect the glass because the tool can scratch the glass.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...stainless-windshield-and-back-glass-trim.html
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...stainless-windshield-and-back-glass-trim.html
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Also 71-2 trim is SS and 73-4 is aluminum for the rear window.
D575
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Magnes
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I am glad you were able to get your 65 to stop leaking. You are right that no one else is going to care about an install on your car as much as you do. That's why I leave as little as possible for others to have to do when it comes to my cars. If I can't do the whole job, I usually start the job, let someone else do what they have to do while I supervise, then I finish the job.
When I made the post above, I was really referring to the 71 and up B's. I assume that's what the original poster has since it's the 71-74 forum.
The repro rubber gaskets used on the pre 71 B's are a different story. I don't have any experience with those gaskets in particular, but like most repro stuff, you're right - It probably won't work as good as an original.
Whenever I installed a windshield or back glass on a car that used a rubber gasket, like your 65 Coronet, I usually did end up doing a "perimeter seal" using urethane AFTER the windshield and gasket were installed. Another thing that helps with the rubber gasket installs is to take the gasket and lay it out in the sun for a while so it will warm up, become supple, and will actually lay flatter and seal better around the glass. I always used a lot of lubrication (glass cleaner) on the gasket as well, which helps the glass slip further in the gasket and makes the corners not bunch up quite so bad. Then I'd park the car out in the sun, let the liquid (glass cleaner) evaporate. Once it was dry, I would do the "perimeter seal" on the exterior of the windshield where the gasket meets the glass. But again, I would only use urethane when I did it because we had to warrantee the install against leaks and urethane NEVER let me down.
Anyway, there's always more than 1 way to do a job and as long as you end up satisfied, you did it correctly. I just want to lend a hand, share my experiences, and hope it helps someone.
bandit
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Coincidence, I just came in from removing my rear window trim. Same issue. Two BB size holes at the corners. The leak does not appear to be under the window seal thankfully. For now I am plugging the two holes with some "Right Stuff" sealer I had around. We'll see how it holds up but this stuff is tough. The correct way would be to weld it shut but afraid of ruining surrounding paint. That channel under the trim that runs off to nowhere is pretty poor designing. Just asking to trap water and cause issues.
Getting the trim off is a little tricky but once you figure out how to get one clip off, the rest come easy. You can get a tool at Autozone. Best I can describe it is lay tool flat(or close to it) against glass and slide under trim until you hit a clip. You want one of those hooks on the tool to get under the clip. Then lightly pry on clip with tool then twist. Should pop right off. Start with corners.
Getting the trim off is a little tricky but once you figure out how to get one clip off, the rest come easy. You can get a tool at Autozone. Best I can describe it is lay tool flat(or close to it) against glass and slide under trim until you hit a clip. You want one of those hooks on the tool to get under the clip. Then lightly pry on clip with tool then twist. Should pop right off. Start with corners.
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