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Not running right

I have to ask, Since you changed cams.
Did you put your distributor gear inline with your top dead center as described in the Manual?
I mean when you put your cam in,was the slot where the dist drops in parallel with the cam from front to back it should have been.
If not your timing will be way off,meaning you could not be getting total spark all the way around!
Double check the oil pump drive/distributor gear so that the slot on top faces toward the firewall AND radiator!
 
Shorthorse said:
If you live near any of the big chain parts stores, they will "loan" specialty tools for free with a deposit. If you have a compressor, try a leak down tester also. The leak down can help point you in the direction of a possible problem. I think somewhere about 5% is acceptable.
At least you have one clear visual indication of something wrong, #8 plug. It may be defective, fouled or worse, your #8 cylinder is bad in some other way. If a plug doesn't fire and gets gasoline fouled, that's expected but if that was oil, that's not good.
I watched your vacuum test several times but with my old computer it was a little tough. Did the rpm's actually go up when you removed the hose?
Click to expand...

I plan on doing a leak down test if the compression readings are not to par. To answer your last question...yes, when I removed the hose that was connected from the vacuum gauge to the intake manifold. The rpm's went up. If I live it disconnected the rpm begin to fall back down and the engine dies. Thank you for watching the video and trying to help

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twinscrew698 said:
I have to ask, Since you changed cams.
Did you put your distributor gear inline with your top dead center as described in the Manual?
I mean when you put your cam in,was the slot where the dist drops in parallel with the cam from front to back it should have been.
If not your timing will be way off,meaning you could not be getting total spark all the way around!
Double check the oil pump drive/distributor gear so that the slot on top faces toward the firewall AND radiator!
Click to expand...

To be honest, I don't remember. I re-verified tdc and the rotor was pointing to the #1 wire. If timing was way off would the timing light and timing mark be close to right. I put some white chalk in the groove of the dampner and it seemed right when I timed it. I'm not afraid to re verify anything. If you think it's worth verifying, please let me know how to. Thanks for the advice
 
Update: Couldnt wait for my buddy to get back, so I took a $16 gamble and bought a set of Auto-lite 85 spark plugs. Engine fired right up and idled just as it should. Backed it out of the driveway and drove around the neighborhood for 15 minutes lol. Had a smile on my face the whole time. The car ran great, so more stuttering or backfire. Now its time to move on to adjusting the transmission so I have more than one gear lol. I have a 727 torqueflite with a promatic 2 shifter. Good days are ahead. I would like to thank everyone that took the time and helped me out.
 
Never, ever, use Champion plugs. You may have more than one bad. Chased a CNS problem on a 440 Superbird for days because of those damn things.
 
Well, went home for lunch to take some video of me driving the car around. GUESS WHAT! It's running like crap again. Pulled and tested the #8 cylinder spark plug for spark and it is sparking. It looks gunked up. I took a pic as close as I could in hopes that you guys could tell me what you think. I think I need to get a new gas tank. When I pulled it out of the car it was nasty and rusty on the inside. I have replaced the see through fuel filter 3 times to ensure nothing is getting to the carb. But I think I'm always going to be wondering if it's bad gas from the corrosion inside the fuel tank. image.jpg
 
Isn't that the same plug/cylinder as the previously posted picture, #8? Were you able to do a compression and/or leak down test? Black plugs usually indicate a rich fuel mixture but not just one plug. Are you running a dual or single plane intake? If that is oil fouled, you might have an issue with your rings below or you valve guides above. Does you engine smoke any, either running or at start up?
By the description of your gas tank, you may indeed need to replace it but it's not causing this.
 
Holley carbs are super sensitive to dirt. The smallest amounts of crud will keep the needle and seat assembly from closing. Look in the carb when it's running. Do you see any fuel dripping? If you remove the sight plug, does gas pour out? You need to replace the tank and fuel lines. I run cannister style filters on my cars. You can get awesome filters from a boat supply store.
 
Powdery black plugs indicate too much fuel but good spark. Wet black plugs (fuel, not oil) can mean that you're missing spark on a fairly regular basis. In your picture, I think that I see a wet black plug. If so, is your coil well grounded, yadayadayada. Have you looked under hood in the dark yet?
 
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]UPDATE: I had a awesome weekend. My dad came down from Nebraska. He ordered a tank on Tuesday and it arrived the same day he got here :) We drained the old tank it was horrible...again. It didn't even look like I drained it a couple months ago. We discovered the tank in there was from a 62-63 A body. The new correct tank was 7 inches longer. So we had to straighten out the tank straps and work it in there. We cleaned out the fuel lines, replaced the fuel filter, replaced plugs, and changed oil. It runs perfect. I'm sad that he left this morning. It sucks being so far away all the time, but it's Part of army life. Thanks again everyone for your help. Next step is to figure out the whining noise from the rear end that occurs over 40mph. [/COLOR]

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Good that you spent time wth your dad and worked together on getting some of your problems taken care of!
 
An OP that was intelligent, respectful and thankful..............how refreshing!
 
I stand corrected about your gas tank and will always keep that in mind.
That's all good news. The best part is spending time with your Dad. Enjoy every minute. There are lots of us that wish we could.
 
You should offer up the tank for cheap or free to someone on a budget on the a body forum and with a good cleaning they can be on the road cheap....

Time spent with pops is PRICELESS.
 
Depending on the MSD wires you installed I can say first hand that these are hard to seat on the plugs completely. I just installed a set and had to use dielectric grease in the boots and puncture a small hole in the boot on the underside to get them seated on the plugs. What a difference when they seat all the way. Seems the air captured inside on the long boots and the dry plug ceramic make them hard to install. Silicon is very grippy stuff.
 
I love a story with a happy ending.
BTW, thank you for your service!
Yes, Pop time is so precious. I'd kill to have just one more visit from mine. RIP, Pop.
BTW, don't worry too much about a little whine from the rear end. Pretty typical for older Mopar rears. Just make sure it has enough good, clean lube (with the additive if it's a Sure Grip!).
 
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