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Rear drum brake stuck as sh!t

B

Braden

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So first a huge thanks to everyone that's helped me so far, my project 71 charger is (well was lol) coming along nicely!
My rear drum is not budging. It's not locked up from rust as it does wiggle. It just went let go something. Here's what I've tried. Bfh and very bfh. Pb blaster. Heat from propane torch. Cut the pins that hold the shoes in place behind the drum. Loosening the tensioner on the bottom, it's a solid piece of rust. Crowbaring like crazy. Wedging screwdrivers in and hammering on it. I've even tried using an 8 lb sledge. It's stuck. There's something holding it on and it's near the top were the brake "piston-valve-thing that pushes the shoes apart" is located. I'm about to break out a angle grinder as I heard the jaw type pullers will damage the axle(like a sledge hammer won't lol) any words of wisdom out there? Thanks again everyone and have a great day!

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and the parking break isn't on. I cut the parking break cable to make sure
 
Are you turning it as your whacking?
 
Brake piston valve thing= wheel cylinder. At this point i would just cut the drum off. It sounds like you have already beat it to death. The amount of time and aggravation spent on it isn't worth it.
 
i had a really tough one not long ago.
the shoe lining was rust welded on to the drum and
when it came apart the lining pulled right off the shoe core
and it was still bonded onto the inside of the drum..

what i did was cut both pins, unbolted the wheel cyl
and i used my cheap harbor frieght 12 ton drum puller while
beating the snot out of it at the same time with a bfh.

i got the puller to pull off a rotor on another car
that i ended up having to put a relief cut in to the hub with a angle grinder
to get it to come off.
 
Have you rotated the adjusting screw to loosen the pads?. Drum may have a ridge. After that, go to Oreilly's Auto and rent a brake drum puller.
 
Yea I've disconnected the wheel cylinder too. And yes I tried the adjusting screw. No luck there. Well I might try a puller, maybe just angle grind this sob. Thanks for the advice guys!
 
Just cutin the e brake cable will not release the shoes if the cable is stuck in the housing. I have gotten this to work in the past but the drum has to turn and your hydraulic brake will have to be hooked up. Put the lug nuts on backward without the wheel ( you donot want the drum leaving the car or the nuts tight against the drum) start the car and put in gear to get the drum spinning good, take it out off gear and hit the brakes. I have popped a few loose this way. Just make sure both rear wheels are off the ground.
 
For what its worth my parking brake cable was frayed inside very close to the end causing it to lock up and not disengage. You said you cut the brake cable, but where did you cut it?
 
Are you using a puller centered on the axel register while hitting it the drum?
Not much just some.
It needs some outward tension while vibrating or it will just snap back.
I'm thinking even if the drum is "welded" to the shoes, the brake guts should come with it at some point.
What about doing the above but first get behind the backing plates and carefully grind the heads off the little shoe retaining stem things?
Then there isn't much left to hold the shoes to the backing plates.
 
I would think if the pins are cut and the wheel cylinder is actually loose and able to move, the top should at least swing out until the wheel cylinder or the e-brake strut hits the axle flange.
You say the drum has some motion from the axle. Are you sure that brake drum register isn't peened over?
 
What's the brake drum register? This is still stuck lol
 
I have all those parts Brand New -- American Made -- when you finally get to the point that you can put it together again.
Don't go chineseium if you care about your car.......... Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935 -- New York....
 
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