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Which rear leafs should I buy? Removing Cal Trac system.

jenkins71

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Hi guys. my 71 Charger has a Cal-trac setup, with the bars and spit-leaf monoleaf springs. I don't like the way they ride and the noise they make on the street, and the car won't seem much strip use, so I am looking to go back to a more stock-type setup.

I would also like to gain maybe 2" ride height in the rear, as I will be using big tires and going for that redneck "jacked-up" look. Don't try to talk me out of it :toothy12:

Any advice on rear leaf set ups? And who to buy from for best price? And advice about raising rear ride height?

Also, if anyone has interest in buying my Cal-Trac setup, it's near-new and we could make a nice deal on it.

Thanks!
 
Hi guys. my 71 Charger has a Cal-trac setup, with the bars and spit-leaf monoleaf springs. I don't like the way they ride and the noise they make on the street, and the car won't seem much strip use, so I am looking to go back to a more stock-type setup.

I would also like to gain maybe 2" ride height in the rear, as I will be using big tires and going for that redneck "jacked-up" look. Don't try to talk me out of it :toothy12:

Any advice on rear leaf set ups? And who to buy from for best price? And advice about raising rear ride height?

Also, if anyone has interest in buying my Cal-Trac setup, it's near-new and we could make a nice deal on it.

Thanks!


Performance Online would be a good start if you're looking for rear leafs. Make sure you give them a call because they offer quite a bit more than what they have on their website. 800-638-1703

I have the CalTracs split mono leafs and CalVert bars on my 74 Roadrunner. I've just got it on the road and noticed a bit of clunking in the rear when going over light bumps. Almost sounds like a loose bushing or maybe the exhaust banging on something. I have not had a chance to look into the exact cause of it, but is this the kind of noise you're referring to?
 
Go with nearly stock leafs and air shock it! That way you can adjust the redneck look and when you get tired of the 100% redneck look, you can drop the air pressure down to around 10 psi and it might have the 1-2" extra height and a decent ride :grin:
 
If possible, I would like the extra rear ride height without having an extra bumpy ride. Is that possible?
 
I'm going full Redneck and using a set of the Mopar Performance Super Stock springs, air shocks, and traction bars. :) If you want a 70s car, make it look like the 70s! :)
 
Caltracs with single leaf are terrible on the street but cool at shows and they do plant the rear end when you need to.
 
Can you post a picture of your setup. Maybe we can make a trade I have a fairly new setup under my car that is made to sit higher I think 2"s or so plus you can add shackles there good for an adjustable 1-3"s
 
Yeah, post a pic of your car as it sits now and we can go from there....

I'm going full Redneck and using a set of the Mopar Performance Super Stock springs, air shocks, and traction bars. :) If you want a 70s car, make it look like the 70s! :)
I think something has been started....1/4 redneck, 3/4 redneck. Could use percentages too....I kinda like 15% redneck on my junk but I still use 3/4 cams :grin:
 
cranky, you must be a young man because all I ever heard was 3/4 inch cam. that is so funny! Another one was when I was at the town poolhall and a old guy told me about a shot I had madeand said it was not bad for an armature.
 
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To add the extra 2" to my too expensive custom made leaf springs - I went with the add a leaf system from Summit Racing. The cost was $36 and the height I gained was exactly 2". Easy to put on you just add them to your regular leaf springs. Piece of cake and I got the idea from FBBO members because 90% of the responses said don't buy air shocks. That was the route I was going but chose the add a leaf instead. Works perfect.
 
I wouldn't go the air shock route either...... But I am curious as to what makes the the Calvert/Caltracs set up noisy on the street? What is the cause of this and is there a way to stop it for street use without ditching the setup?
 
You need to do your exam on the system. Hard to say what's causing it w/o that eval first. You may just have a lose bracket on your leafs. Or you may have a problem.
 
You need to do your exam on the system. Hard to say what's causing it w/o that eval first. You may just have a lose bracket on your leafs. Or you may have a problem.


I've read on other posts that the Calvert system clunks on the street. I just can't seem to get an answer as to what exactly is doing the clunking and if they're is a way of stopping it. I'll figure it out the weekend when I can give it a good look over.
 
I got the mopar XHD springs. Fabbed my own extended shackles. Kept the air shocks on it too. I gained probably 2"-3" depending on how much air I have in the shocks. I don't like solely using the air shocks to Jack it up. That's what the extended shackles were for. The air shocks were mainly to get the right comfort zone for the rear ride quality. It works pretty good for me. This is on a 67' coronet.
 
Jenkins, we have the complete calvert rear system on our 64 polara dana 60, 4-spd and yes it is a bit more revealing even with loud exhaust but we really like the other improvements that came with the install but I want to question the install on your car. Does it have all the calvert shackles, bushings, bolt kit and all hardware? Did installer use a good quality heavy grease and liberally used in and on bushings and shackles as well as being torqued properly? Are the traction bar asemblys greased at all thread and bolt points and adjusted properly? If not I think I would do a re-install on it before I would just remove a GREAT suspension and traction assy. Its not that big of a deal for a mopar guy. Maybe you should call caltrac as travis is very helpful. they also make a front spring mnting brkt. that will give you some extra body height on the rear. Are your shocks any count and are the rubber bushings good and is the lower calvert shock offset spacer on the correct side of the shock? Good luck and if hope you can correct problem.
 
The Calvert mono springs are noisy on the street because they use an aluminum bushing at the front spring eyes, and that plus a little slop between the bushings and the bolts do make noise. Greasing the bushings helps but for only a short time. I like mine because the advantages far out weight the disadvantages in my ride.
 
Yeah ya know, I just want to go with a more comfortable set up, as this is going to be a daily driver car for me!
I'll try too get some pictures for ya. Right now I have the mono leaf calverts with caltracs and air shocks.
I was wondering what would be better for the extra height and COMFORT as a major theme-- add-a-leaf with good shocks or regular springs with air shocks. Or, an aftermarket spring company (Espo?) with extra height built in.
 
Re-arched springs will add height without too much of a difference in ride quality but will make it feel a bit stiffer.


cranky, you must be a young man because all I ever heard was 3/4 inch cam. that is so funny! Another one was when I was at the town poolhall and a old guy told me about a shot I had madeand said it was not bad for an armature.
Young man of sicky freakin fo :grin:

To add the extra 2" to my too expensive custom made leaf springs - I went with the add a leaf system from Summit Racing. The cost was $36 and the height I gained was exactly 2". Easy to put on you just add them to your regular leaf springs. Piece of cake and I got the idea from FBBO members because 90% of the responses said don't buy air shocks. That was the route I was going but chose the add a leaf instead. Works perfect.
Yup, you'll hear 90% of the board members say not to use air shocks but man, I've been using them for various reasons since the 60's and have never had a problem and I even abused a couple of cars badly with them. Don't know what it is that so many have had problems....maybe it's the same thing with the theory of rear ends and so many don't want to use a 741 case rear vs an 89 or a 42. A few people had a problem and spread the word and now everyone hates them? And how many have broke a 41 case rear? I dunno. I remember seeing cars in the late 60's that were jacked up as far as an air shock could go and that will cause problems or if the shock cross member is rusted out but for a 1" or even a 2" lift, they are usually ok for that but IMO, 2" lift is max. If you do use air shocks, DO NOT use a common valve system but use a separate line system. IE, a separate valve for each shock. One reason is that it'll improve handling in a turn. With a common valve system, whatever shock that is in compression during a turn will force air over to the shock that's in extension and make the car lean even more. Also, inspect your cross shock cross member before installing any heavy duty shock. If an air shock can rip out your mounting Xmember with 10-15psi, so can a good heavy duty shock.

I wouldn't go the air shock route either...... But I am curious as to what makes the the Calvert/Caltracs set up noisy on the street? What is the cause of this and is there a way to stop it for street use without ditching the setup?
Someone mentioned solid front spring eye bushings as being the reason for the noise. Also, if you have solid rear hanger bushings, you will also hear more noise....noise from the front hangers and the rear ones. Thing is, rubber bushings are mushy and solid ones transmit motion right now, however, I've rode in cars with ladder bars that made less noise than ones with CT's on them. IMO, CT's are barely cheaper than ladder bars and unless the vehicle will be used in a class that says it needs to keep the factory type setup, I'm going with the ladders.


Also, according to John Calvert (iirc, John is the one that came up with the system), the setup works better with his recommended Rancho shocks and his mono leaf springs....and not air shocks or SS springs.
 
Re-arched springs will add height without too much of a difference in ride quality but will make it feel a bit stiffer.


Young man of sicky freakin fo :grin:

Yup, you'll hear 90% of the board members say not to use air shocks but man, I've been using them for various reasons since the 60's and have never had a problem and I even abused a couple of cars badly with them. Don't know what it is that so many have had problems....maybe it's the same thing with the theory of rear ends and so many don't want to use a 741 case rear vs an 89 or a 42. A few people had a problem and spread the word and now everyone hates them? And how many have broke a 41 case rear? I dunno. I remember seeing cars in the late 60's that were jacked up as far as an air shock could go and that will cause problems or if the shock cross member is rusted out but for a 1" or even a 2" lift, they are usually ok for that but IMO, 2" lift is max. If you do use air shocks, DO NOT use a common valve system but use a separate line system. IE, a separate valve for each shock. One reason is that it'll improve handling in a turn. With a common valve system, whatever shock that is in compression during a turn will force air over to the shock that's in extension and make the car lean even more. Also, inspect your cross shock cross member before installing any heavy duty shock. If an air shock can rip out your mounting Xmember with 10-15psi, so can a good heavy duty shock.

Someone mentioned solid front spring eye bushings as being the reason for the noise. Also, if you have solid rear hanger bushings, you will also hear more noise....noise from the front hangers and the rear ones. Thing is, rubber bushings are mushy and solid ones transmit motion right now, however, I've rode in cars with ladder bars that made less noise than ones with CT's on them. IMO, CT's are barely cheaper than ladder bars and unless the vehicle will be used in a class that says it needs to keep the factory type setup, I'm going with the ladders.


Also, according to John Calvert (iirc, John is the one that came up with the system), the setup works better with his recommended Rancho shocks and his mono leaf springs....and not air shocks or SS springs.

The solid front bushing makes sense. I've got the the full CT set up in the rear with the split mono leafs. I'm running Bilstein for shocks though. I think the ride quality and street handling are great for this setup.
 
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