Dynamat, FatMat, Stinger Roadkill, or Something Else - Sq Ft? Floor '71 Charger

Ok, I searched the forum and came up with nothing, and yes, this could have gone under the "Interior' subject forum, but this is '71 Charger specific...

So, how many square feet of material did you need to cover the interior floor of your '71 Charger or similar? Did you do the ceiling too?

What is best for the application? Dynamat, FatMat, Stinger Roadkill, or Something Else?

Where to buy it?

I heard FatMat smells in hot climates.

Thanks!!!!

I bought Fat Mat RattleTrap for my 69 Coronet. Less than 1/2 the price of Dynamat. I've laid it down on my inner firewall and rear wheel wells; my garage gets up to over 100* and there's no odor. I got 75 sq ft; should be enough to do the floor pans including hump, firewall, rear wheel wells and the roof, with some left over to do the inner door skins.

We have a foam warehouse by us, called the "Foam Factory". I used a 1/8", closed cell, black foam. It's listed as gym-mat, and was only 20 bucks for a 4X8 sheet. 3M super adhesive works well on it. It'll deaden sound, reduce heat, and is not heavy or thick. See the last few pages in this thread.........

http://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/showthread.php?7651-Ma-s-cuda-A-long-time-coming

I used another thin, light weight, closed cell foam in my WO car......it works great.

Fatmat is 1/2 the price of Dynamat and equal in quality.

Used fat man in my wife's dart, got the 100 square foot, did the floor, fire wall, inside outer door skins and inside the rear window part, roof, trunk and part of the trunk lid.

I used the Hushmat on my 70 Charger. It went on pretty easy, but honestly I can't really tell for sure if it made a difference. I didn't do the whole interior, only the trunk and under the back seat. My only advice is that it took more sq. ft. than I expected it would.

Fat Mat

For what it's worth. Do a serious amount of research.
I spent weeks researching sound proofing from multiple sources. What I learned was to not cut corners and develop a methodical plan. Do it once and do it right kinda thing.

I personally chose Dynamat xtreme, for adhering to the metal panels of the car. floor, roof, this changes the harmonic resonance of the metal panels- lowering noise level.
Over that I layed a 1" dynaliner. Mainly for heat and also secondly for sound proofing.
Over that I purchased a roll of MLV (mass loaded vinyl). This is for further sound proofing. This requires a buffer between the floor panels themselves. hence the dynaliner.



Here is a copy/paste from my research notepad I made a while back. Hope this helps.

Sound Deadening http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Dynamat extreme (sound) - $160 for 36 Sq. Ft
Dynaliner (heat)- 1/4" - 32" x 54" piece - $50
1/2" - 32" x 54" - $70
1/8" - 32" x 54" - $45
1/8" for the Doors
1/2" for Floors, firewall, transmission hump, roof, rear deck


Sound & Heat blocking. Lizzard Skin ? Spray on ceramic product?
First layer should be Dynamat. Stick panels to 25-30% of metal surface to kill vibration. Second layer over that will be Dynaliner. This is also adhesive and adds thermal protection while also doubling the acoustic properties of Dynamat.



FInal Sound Deadening Plan =====>
Cover 25% of metal surface pan with Dynamat. => Stops harmonic resonance of the metal.
Cover the entire floor with Dynaliner.==> Closed cell foam for heat protection but also adds a buffer layer under the MLV.
MLV the entire floor and door panels etc. This is the noise barrier layer.