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Rack & Pinion

Thanks Charlie.

Given your review I'd steer clear of that anyways. Right now I'm pretty sure I'm just going to stick with the stock unless I have an idea that pans out but if that does I'll update this thread with what I'm doing.
 
HYRDGOON said:
Thanks Charlie.

Given your review I'd steer clear of that anyways. Right now I'm pretty sure I'm just going to stick with the stock unless I have an idea that pans out but if that does I'll update this thread with what I'm doing.
Click to expand...

When in doubt go with what you know will work even if it is 45 years old. There's a lot of cool aftermarket parts out there but one always has to wonder whether or not they're good for 100,000 miles or what other issues you may run into which is why this forum is so great, everybody shares their experiences and in the process saves many of us from the headaches.
 
Why not go with the Borgeson box? I put one on my 65 Comet, and I love it! Plus you don't have to re invent the whole suspension.
 
furyus said:
Why not go with the Borgeson box? I put one on my 65 Comet, and I love it! Plus you don't have to re invent the whole suspension.
Click to expand...

I don't have power steering that's part of the problem. Also not sure I'd have room for a box with the new accessory going up front (i.e. Procharger)

So retaining stock suspension and moving to tubular uppers and dropped spindles (already have an oversized sway bar) Handling already isn't that bad and I agree with 747 on the proven tried and true and more importantly better weight distribution than an aftermarket K but what can I do to improve ease or ratio of steering. My BIGGEST problem is still bringing this car back in a hurry when I go a little sideways and I LIKE to go a little sideways! lol
 
cdr said:
Yep, thats where i bought mine.
Click to expand...

I got mine {Unisteer B-Body "bolt on" rack & pinion} from Year One 2005-ish IIRC

IMO too, as to what you said, I wouldn't recommend them,
it was a little more involved than thought, no big deal, dealt with far worse stuff
not very many off the rack/shelf headers will fit either,
only the TTI 178383c I found that were mass produced,
not really what I wanted or what I needed...

bump steer & loss of a little turning radius was an slight issue too,
but solvable too {thanks to cdr had a similar post somewhere, he did it already}

very limited oil pan selections will fit too,
that is an issue with a large capacity oil pan, center sump style for a 68-70 B-Body

I bough mine when they 1st came out, for $999 + shipping

I do like the way it feels & steers, handles now,
BUT I really wanted a manual rack too,
but nothing bolt on was made, I was orig. building a mild street cruiser,
a bunch of bolt on stuff, to actually handle well, that went bad quickly...LOL
had to fab up some mounts for GM style power steering pump supplied &
the serpentine belt pulley, & the system/March serpentine pulleys I wanted to use...
Nothing too hard or really critical;
just some shimming/spacer & longer bolts @ the alt.
& a fabed up bracket @ the p/s pump & thin shim the crank pulley out to match...

IMO if I had to do it again, I was changing the concept of my car mid build, bad idea,
{it escalated/morphed rapidly...LOL}
I'd fab up my own stuff/mounts for front steer, not rear steer Omni style rack
{rear steer/reverse rotation, for the rod ends behind the axle line, like the Uni-steer is}
&
I'd probably use a manual rack from a Mustang II or a Pinto & make my own mounts
flip flop side to side/left on the right visa versa, on the lower ball joints steering arms...
 
beezee said:
Hey Mike ,check out PST linkage kit. http://www.p-s-t.com/pst-blog-Mopar-Fast-Ratio-Steering-Linkage-Kit.
Click to expand...

I checked this out before Rick and remembered there were some restrictions. If I recall correctly I don't think the fast ratio kit was for use with headers.

I'll look into it again because it really would be the perfect solution

- - - Updated - - -

Yep! As I thought :( http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?28834-Fast-Ratio-Pitman-Arm-and-Idler-Arm-199-00
 
I purchased a unisteer r&p set a few years ago, I am reasonably happy with it , I don't mind the slightly bigger turning circle, but the bump steer, I have had a few " professionals" look at it,, to no avail, , I read on here that cdr had issues with his uni steer r&p,, may I ask what you adjustments you made to rectify this issue,, please
 
dodgey68 said:
I purchased a unisteer r&p set a few years ago, I am reasonably happy with it , I don't mind the slightly bigger turning circle, but the bump steer, I have had a few " professionals" look at it,, to no avail, , I read on here that cdr had issues with his uni steer r&p,, may I ask what you adjustments you made to rectify this issue,, please
Click to expand...


get a tape measure & check the toe & then lift the front end up against the up bump stops & re measure, write these #'s down & let me know what they are.
 
ok cdr I measured 53" rim to rim, down on the ground at normal stance, then I jacked up front end and measured 50.5" jacked up?? so a difference of 2.5
sorry about the time, I had been away
 
did you measure the front & back so we can tell what the toe in is & how much it changes when up or down

let me know
 
dodgey68 said:
ok cdr I measured 53" rim to rim, down on the ground at normal stance, then I jacked up front end and measured 50.5" jacked up?? so a difference of 2.5
sorry about the time, I had been away
Click to expand...
that was the front of the rim,,,,,,

52 1/4 inch up on jack and on ground 52 3/4, I had help with the young bloke,, I might have to recheck it when I get it to work on a hoist?,, rear of rim
 
Here is a custom K and control arms I built several years ago to use rack and pinion. Went ahead and changed it to a modern spindle and fixed the geometry issues of these 45 year old cars.

If your going custom, you can do MUCH better than what is available as far as geometry goes, get all the header clearance you need, and use a big rear sump pan.

These pics are "old" technology, but OEM parts that are easily found and serviced. Today, we use RSRT to make the control arms, spindles, etc... and sort the geometry for the intended purpose of the car.


 
WOw CJD that's very cool. With everything figured out I'm surprised you didn't produce and sell these as they fetch a good buck
 
What he said, very impressive! How much for one haha.
 
Agree !.. im also running the Altercation kit in my 65 Satellite and absolutely love it !
honestly couldn't imagine building another car with out it...

Darius said:
Hey Goon
I have it on my GTX because it came with the Alterktion. This does not answer any "retro fit" type questions for a conversion with existing K frame but I can say it is soooooooo nice to drive with. Handles great , very responsive, not as much steering wheel movement required in turns.
If you are going to go to a 4 link and end up with coil overs in the rear you might as well do the front while you are at it. The alterktion would be an easy swap.
Click to expand...
 
HYRDGOON said:
WOw CJD that's very cool. With everything figured out I'm surprised you didn't produce and sell these as they fetch a good buck
Click to expand...

Why?, because Mopar people are too concerned with chalk marks and the correct hose clamp than how the car brakes or handles. Maybe that's changing now. I've thought about having RSRT design the geometry and me building K's, but not sure if the demand would justify the investment on my part. Also comes down to what spindles to use. Most are using C5/C6 stuff, but the KPI is not ideal for any car other than the Corvette. You are then required to use the sealed bearing that is not ideal for our heavier cars. But, if demand was their, I'd build a setup that uses C5 Corvette spindles, hubs, and brakes (I think the XV stuff used that). Ideally, I'd want to have everything designed for the B/E bodies, from the spindles, control arms, rack, hubs, etc...(already did that on my 'Cuda!), but it's very expensive. Don't think people would step up and pay for it, so you get compromise suspension systems available that use off the shelf parts to keep cost low.
 
That's funny about the chalk marks and hose clamps!A lot of the Mopar people were I live are as bad as the Corvette people.That's not how it came from the factory!
My response is always I wasn't alive when my car was built so I'll build it however I want.
Nice suspension.
 
Unisteer rack

Late to the thread if anyone is still subscribed (cdr) can you tell me what you did to correct turning radius problems. Just installed one on my 70 RR. Not at all happy with the kit.had to grind a lot on the main bracket to get it to bolt up to cross members, modify headers, will need to modify p/s pump bracket to clear a/c belts. Would not recommend anyone else buying one
 
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