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header bolts

cwhubb

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what header bolts do you use and is there truly a "best" one out there?
 
Use studs, much better clamping force........I use ARP!
 
split hdrs.jpgI use ProForm Locking Header Bolts and they work great.
Note: This posted picture is NOT of my motor but of a fellow Mopar Racer that has cut his header flanges like I have described below.

THE MAIN THING IS:
The main reason headers leak exhaust gases at the block is that the Header Flanges are NOT seating flush against the block.
Brand new headers should not be a problem but older headers may have "warped" over time and are not seating flush against the heads.
The way to overcome headers that have warped flanges and will not seat is to remove the headers and "cut" the header flanges between the front pipe and the center two pipes and then cut the flange between the rear pipe and the center two flanges. This allows the header flanges to relax and to tighten down against the block.
If you think about it you have probably seen Mopars at the track that have had the header flanges cut like this.

The reason the manufacturer has the flanges go all the way across is to put the header tubes on a jig and weld them up to a solid flange to make sure all the header tubes go where they need to go.

Side Note: I have just seen the "RemFlex" header gaskets on the Mancini site that state they will seal about anything. I think these will be ny next header gasket purchase.
 
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Yup I use RemFlex gaskets, think they cost about $60 and worth every penny.
 
yea I'm going to try the remflex I want to use good bolts or maybe the studs, I never even thought of that option, to mitigate all the common leak causes, I used stage 8 but they are a pita, still leaked but I'm pretty sure it was the gaskets fault

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are there any special considerations or install instructions with the studs?
 
I like the stainless ones cause they look good and don't rust. I have 3 cars with them. Two street cars together for over 10 years. Race car together for 3 years. None have EVER come loose. Both street cars have the original gaskets installed when built. The racecar has no exhaust leaks and runs Copper RTV instead of gaskets. The secret is to make sure the flanges are FLAT. I draw file every set before installation. All three vehicles have different brand headers, TTI, Hooker, Headman.
Doug
 
I just got the ARP studs for a small chebby, 3/8 course for the head and 3/8 fine for the flange.

My dad also use's studs on his 440 with TTI headers.
 
I'd be interested on how you could use studs on TTI headers - there's not enough room as the header has to slide to get two of their supplied bolts in next to the exhaust tubes. Stainless bolts are great if their grade 10 or better, other grades expand when hot and lose torque tension. ARP are best provided the integrated seat washer isn't too large to sit next to the tube or the headers don't line up with the heads exhaust port.
 
What size TTI's are you saying that you cant use studs? My dad's 440/505 has 1 7/8 TTI's without issue.
 
I just use the header bolts that came with my TTI headers and they have worked great. I cant use studs because one or two of the header bolt holes wont let me use a stud because the tube makes a sharp bend and you cant work the header in right. That one header bolt hole is oblonged so you can start a bolt first and then slide the header up to line up the other bolt holes. Ron
 
Use studs, much better clamping force........I use ARP!

Yep

Ditto

what he just said

ARP is my hardware of choice most the time too

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If you have clearance issues you can use 12pt nuts
& start the tight fitting ones a little before you put the rest all the way down,
so you can pull out on the header flange a little, so to get the nuts started

may have to use a crows foot some times too,
depending on tubing size & style of header pipe
 
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